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#68445 - 07/20/13 01:57 PM Interstice P1, 5.10b??
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Okay, I'm bored. I can't make it to the Gunks for a couple of weeks and it is hot as balls anyway.

So I top-roped pitch one of Interstice last week and I thought the pitch was surprisingly good. I also thought that first crux was really tough! Two hard moves in a row, really thin. I thought the upper crux was a good 5.10 move, but not unreasonable. Also it looked like a somewhat gutsy lead to me, both cruxes are above the gear.

What do you think?
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#68448 - 07/20/13 02:28 PM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: SethG]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Too gutsy for me to want to lead.

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#68451 - 07/20/13 06:07 PM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I don't recall the start as being badly protected, but the upper part of the first pitch is a bit run-out.

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#68453 - 07/20/13 10:35 PM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: rg@ofmc]
curmudgeon Online   content
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 466
Lucander sends! laugh


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#68455 - 07/21/13 12:59 AM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Too gutsy for me to want to lead.

I followed/TR'd a few times - decided I'd lead it once it was reasonably bolted. ;-)

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#68459 - 07/21/13 12:45 PM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: curmudgeon]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Lead it twice. Hard moves at the start are protected, but I think they are underrated at 5.10b.. The runout starts where Dave is in the picture; last piece below his feet, next piece quite a bit higher. It reminds me of the runout on Tough Shift; straightforward moves that get easier as you progress, but there is a potential for a long fall. I also did it with Russ Clune, he led that pitch and said "That's a reala pant-loader."
Despite the guidebook warning, the second pitch is well protected, and it is a nice bit of climbing.


Edited by Dana (07/21/13 12:46 PM)

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#68487 - 07/27/13 08:16 PM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: Dana]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Ask RGold about the second pitch. It sure looks exciting. I ventured up to the roof while Lucander belayed me one day, and thankfully thunderheads started booming overhead. I happily retreated to the anchor and we bailed. I;ve never seen anyone on it. As far as the first pitch....totally classic.

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#68490 - 07/28/13 07:00 PM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: RangerRob]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
The protection on the second pitch is fine. You have big cam at your waist when you are pulling the crux. The climbing does not let for about for about 15-feet or so after the overhang, but there are places for small cams. Good pitch, tricky crux.

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#68492 - 07/28/13 08:20 PM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: Dana]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Rob is perhaps referring to a 30 foot or so fall I took off that pitch, BITD before cams. Worked hard to get opposed nuts at the lip, nothing else available after that; perhaps small cams have changed that part. It was late winter or early spring and there was a thin stream of ice water running down the route after I cleared the ceiling. The ice water progressively numbed my hands, which went from being ok to worthless for gripping very suddenly.

The fall was all air. I didn't fancy another bout with the ice water and bailed. Came back in a few weeks and did it when it was warmer and drier.

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#68555 - 08/05/13 08:48 PM Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? [Re: rg@ofmc]
NYZoo Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 59
Loc: Gunks
I love Interstice. To me the climbing is varied and very fun. I think the first pitch is 10b and the second pitch roof is harder at 10d (this is how Dick has it written and it seems right on to me).. . I never thought of it as being to run out, I've always thought of it as PG (a little heading a a spot or two but not even close to R). The second pitch roof is awesome, I don't want to give away any unwanted gear beta but it's there, strenuous to place but there. Dick says there's a 9R section here but I never really found that to be the case… Combining both pitches in one is a whole lot of rock climbing in one long pitch.. Super fun…

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