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#6857 - 09/29/02 10:52 PM What would you do?
Anonymous
Unregistered


Hey all,

I was wondering what you guys would do in my situation.

A friend who can follow 5.8 is coming up this weekend and wants to climb. We decided to go to the dacks or Cathedral/Cannon. I have never climbed at either area and was wondering where you guys would go.......I can lead 5.8+ and I am experienced with long multi-pitch routes, however, my friend is not; so a long route wouldn't be the best but who knows.

So if you guys wanna toss out any areas or route names that you think would be cool it would be great! Thanks alot!

peace,

Biehn


Any good camping beta would be really helpful too!!

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#6858 - 09/29/02 11:12 PM Re: What would you do?
Judge11 Offline
old hand

Registered: 03/28/01
Posts: 1152
A bunch of us are leaving for NH in the morning, and those that are with me are pretty much in the same "following" boat. They've never been on Thin Air, Standard, Funhouse, Black Lung and/or other moderate routes on Cathedral/Whitehorse, so we're gonna' start there.
As for camping, any campgrounds off the Kanc. Hwy. or Dolly Copp up by Mt. Wash. are really good.
Have fun!!....we certainly plan to.

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#6859 - 09/30/02 01:29 AM Re: What would you do?
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
I'm much more familiar with NH, so take my response with an appropriate grain of salt. That said: I'd head to NH. Overall, I think it's easier access for a weekend's worth of climbing. But: do Cathedral; don't climb Cannon on a weekend (even with someone who's multipitch-savvy), ever.

There's more than enough granite in Conway to go around. Plan one day on Cathedral, and another on Whitehorse Ledge. For a nice intro to longer routes, consider White's ledge. Routes: link up Hotter than Hell to Inferno (Whitehorse), then go mellow out below Echo Roof, on WH. Cathedral: Bombardment, Funhouse, or Three BIrches to Black Lung or Retaliation or Upper Refuse; Still in Saigon or Turner's Flake or even ThinAir to Pine Tree Eliminate.

Whatever you do, be flexible and avoid the pumpkin-heads (that'd be the guided masses). It's possible on any of the above, to get stuck below a group; don't.

Or even, since it's on the way to Conway from VT, spend a day at Rumney. Ssssh, the bolts are calling you ...

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#6860 - 09/30/02 02:35 AM Re: What would you do? [Re: Julie]
Anonymous
Unregistered


How are the climbs like thin air or sliding board, good gear and what not?? I think I have heard that they were a bit run-out-? any info would be cool.......rummney would be pretty cool cause I could get my friend to lead some climbs....

Thanks everyone

Biehn

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#6861 - 09/30/02 02:42 AM Re: What would you do?
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Sliding Board has good gear - for a slab route. On the crux 5.7 pitch you'll eventually be 10' from your last pro (a bolt) before the steepness drops back to 5.4. On some of the 5.5 pitches above, you'll be anywhere from 20 - 40 feet out at times. This is not considered particularly run-out for a slab climb given that grade.

Thin Air has pretty much good gear all the way. I don't particularly remember anything daunting.
_________________________
- Marc

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#6862 - 09/30/02 08:36 AM Re: What would you do?
merlin Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/31/99
Posts: 1352
you might wanna stay away from cannon with a complete beginner.....

cathedral on the other hand is perfect...never climbed whitehorse so i dont know...

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#6863 - 09/30/02 12:14 PM Re: What would you do? [Re: merlin]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
To give a good sampling of NH climbing, I would definitely recommend a little slab, and so 1 day at Whitehorse. Try a shorter route 1st, like Sea of Holes, to see how your friend likes it, before committing to Sliding Board or Standard (6-9 pitches for these). Then a day at Cathedral. A 3rd day for clippin' at Rumney would round things out nicely. Just my $0.02.

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#6864 - 10/03/02 02:07 AM Re: What would you do?
Anonymous
Unregistered


Hey folks....

The weekend weather is definately threatening rain, rain and more rain! Pretty bummed out that the weather is working this way. But anyways, im thinking about heading to the Dacks because it seems closer but NH is still possible (its really up in the air right now) anyone know of good routes that won't be affected by the wet weather so much.......Or any eventful things to do (other than climb) if the weather turns to total crap.
Thanks again!

Biehn

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#6865 - 10/03/02 03:24 AM Re: What would you do?
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Well, Rumney does have some pretty steep routes. Bonsai (area) in particular, Starship Enterprise maybe? However, steep means ... hard. Sunday looks ok - I'd go with traveling to wherever's closest on Sat. (maybe Rumney, on the way to Conway), then be there to climb Sunday. I think the way the weather/ranges work, it's more likely to rain in the Daks anyway - but then again, it's further west, so ... good luck!

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