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#68808 - 09/16/13 01:33 PM Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
It is well known that there is a sickle-shaped flake/block just sitting on a narrow shelf right above the crux of P2 of No Glow. It is mentioned in Dick's book. The flake/block has no visible means of attachment and always creeps me out.

I post here about a different block.

Just below the top of the cliff, literally two moves from the finish, you can go a little right or a little left. Going to the right is the easier, more obvious way. I did this yesterday and put my hand on a loose block. I did not even realize it was detached until I touched it. It is roughly Texas shaped, concave, and about three and a half feet wide. When I barely touched it, it shifted. It scared the crap out of me.

I suspect it would take no more than a little shove to send this thing down the cliff. Someone could get killed. I know trundling raises a host of issues and isn't generally done in the Gunks. (Is it forbidden by the Preserve?) Also in this specific case trundling the block from so high could have unintended consequences. The block might go far to the left or right and damage another route, or might even dislodge the sickle flake/block below. Obviously multiple people would have to be involved, at night, to make sure a wide area is clear before a controlled trundling could take place.

Despite these issues I think trundling might be in order here. I think it is only a matter of time before someone pulls this block off, and it could easily kill someone. It could happen today.

I don't mean to sound like chicken little. I know there are many loose blocks around. This one is a particular problem because of its location and because I think it could just slip off at any moment. It it just leaning against the wall.
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#68810 - 09/16/13 01:43 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: SethG]
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 176
I climbed that Saturday and noticed that block. It encouraged me to climb left of it, which turned out to be easier than it looked at first. I didn't play with the block much to see how loose it was, but it did seem to be detached and just leaning against the rock.

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#68812 - 09/16/13 04:14 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: SethG]
Glenn Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 71
Loc: Tx
I'm thinking that people have been successfully avoiding it for nearly 60 years. Haven't been on the route in almost three years, but I do recall that block and thinking the same thing.



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#68813 - 09/16/13 05:46 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Glenn]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
That is the block.

Yes of course it has always been there and no one has died yet. I would think the same thing except that I absent-mindedly touched it-- barely-- and it shifted. It is not attached at all. Maybe it will fall off in the next storm. Personally I think I'm done with No Glow for a while.
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#68815 - 09/17/13 12:48 AM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: SethG]
Gail Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/01/07
Posts: 95
Loc: Gardiner, NY
great photo of "the block"

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#68816 - 09/17/13 09:29 AM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Gail]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5977
Loc: 212 land
Maybe it will fall off in the next storm

And no one will be harmed then.
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#68817 - 09/17/13 09:57 AM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: oenophore]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Trundling is not allowed at the MP.

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#68818 - 09/17/13 11:02 AM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Mike Rawdon]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
are you going to tell Hall monitor

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#68827 - 09/17/13 07:06 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Mike Rawdon]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Trundling is not allowed at the MP.



Then that settles it.

My comment about it coming off in a storm was hopeful. I pray it does.

Please carry on as before. Be careful out there.
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#68834 - 09/17/13 10:48 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: SethG]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: SethG
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Trundling is not allowed at the MP.



Then that settles it.

My comment about it coming off in a storm was hopeful. I pray it does.

Intentional trundling is not allowed. "Accidentally" dislodging a rock, especially during a storm....

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#68836 - 09/17/13 11:11 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: retroscree]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 851
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Some may remember the story of Pete Absolon's death in 2007 as told in Outside Mag. http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/rock-climbing/Dropped.html?page=1

Just short of the summit of a Wind River climb, he was killed instantly by a rock thrown from the summit, when someone up top couldn't imagine anyone was below them.

We'll all agree that the cliffs have gotten incredibly, even mid week and throughout the year, leave it the ranger staff to decide and if necessary when and how to trundle anything. As preserve employees, they have the authority, as well as the manpower to close off a section of the crag as well as the carriage roads as needed to insure it's done safely.

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#68837 - 09/17/13 11:29 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Rickster]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Rickster
Some may remember the story of Pete Absolon's death in 2007 as told in Outside Mag. http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/rock-climbing/Dropped.html?page=1

Just short of the summit of a Wind River climb, he was killed instantly by a rock thrown from the summit, when someone up top couldn't imagine anyone was below them.

We'll all agree that the cliffs have gotten incredibly, even mid week and throughout the year, leave it the ranger staff to decide and if necessary when and how to trundle anything. As preserve employees, they have the authority, as well as the manpower to close off a section of the crag as well as the carriage roads as needed to insure it's done safely.

+1
I weren't serious.

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#68839 - 09/17/13 11:35 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: retroscree]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
People run the carriage road in storms all the time.

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#68841 - 09/18/13 02:39 AM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Kent]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Kent
People run the carriage road in storms all the time.

So what. They're just cluttering up the place.

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#68843 - 09/18/13 11:20 AM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Kent]
Ralph Offline
member

Registered: 02/01/07
Posts: 142
There's a certain ranger and a physicist that have a habit of climbing in storms.
Safety first = Up on Up
We are talking about a mere pebble compared to the Rickstone.

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#71379 - 05/04/14 11:52 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: SethG]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
A very large (ca. 200 lb) rock was pulled off the top of No Glow this afternoon by a novice climber. I imagine it is the block discussed in this thread. It exploded at the GT Ledge and sent shrapnel from tiny to 50 lb pieces in a 100 foot spread. There were 4 of us at the base at the time. No one was seriously injured but one climbed needed on-site medical attention for a soft tissue leg injury and another climbed experienced a shoulder tweak as a result of the panicked evasive maneuvers. The big chunks that hit the ground would have killed anyone instantly had they been hit.

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#71382 - 05/05/14 03:11 AM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Mike Rawdon]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
Lordy, I'm so sorry you had to experience that. I'm very grateful no one was more seriously injured.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#71383 - 05/05/14 12:16 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: SethG]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
It's been years since I climbed No Glow - that perched flake kept me from wanting to do it again. Gonna get back on that one soon!

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#71384 - 05/05/14 01:30 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: Lucander]
curmudgeon Offline
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 466
I wonder if it was the large block just above and right of climber in my photo?


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#71385 - 05/05/14 01:54 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: curmudgeon]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
Mudge, you mean the sickle block that everyone yards on at the crux? If that is gone the climb will really be different. Plus the Texas death block will still be there waiting above..... I'll be interested to hear what others discover when they go up there.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#71573 - 06/30/14 02:18 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: SethG]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
Someone on mountainproj is reporting that it appears the Texas death block is what fell off of No Glow. Just so you know.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#71575 - 06/30/14 06:25 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: SethG]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
I rapped off of No Glow a few weeks ago, and there was a dirty spot and no flake where Glenn\'s picture has the red circle (see page 1 of this thread). It was very close to the top.

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#71577 - 07/01/14 01:03 PM Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow [Re: KathyS]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 141
Loc: ny
Rapped yesterday and death flake above the roof is still there. Block that fell is approx 10\' below the top-out.
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