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#68925 - 09/29/13 03:31 AM CCK Top out boulder problem between reg. & direct
EliHamblet Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/16/11
Posts: 7
There's a fun problem between the direct and regular finish to CCK, wondering if anyone else has tried it. if you've belayed on the lower ledge at the chock stone you have stared at it while waiting for your second.

Although.you cannot see the fun move you can barely see the edge of it on the bottom of this pic:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106024416

follow that lower ar

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#68932 - 09/30/13 02:53 AM Re: CCK Top out boulder problem between reg. & direct [Re: EliHamblet]
EliHamblet Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/16/11
Posts: 7
For some reason my posts are all cut off on my iPad, I'll add a description later.

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#68933 - 09/30/13 11:47 AM Re: CCK Top out boulder problem between reg. & direct [Re: EliHamblet]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Are you talking about the Super Direct? From the alcove stance on the direct, go out and right instead of traversing left.


Edited by RangerRob (09/30/13 11:47 AM)

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#68934 - 09/30/13 11:54 AM Re: CCK Top out boulder problem between reg. & direct [Re: RangerRob]
EliHamblet Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/16/11
Posts: 7
That may be the spot.


Edited by EliHamblet (09/30/13 11:56 AM)

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#68935 - 09/30/13 11:57 AM Re: CCK Top out boulder problem between reg. & direct [Re: EliHamblet]
EliHamblet Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/16/11
Posts: 7
But from the right dangler style


Edited by EliHamblet (09/30/13 12:07 PM)

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#68936 - 09/30/13 02:16 PM Re: CCK Top out boulder problem between reg. & direct [Re: EliHamblet]
EliHamblet Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/16/11
Posts: 7
When finishing the regular route up to the ledge with the chockstone in the back you can follow the lower edge of the roof out while heel hooking and reach for a hold out on the exposed face just around the corner. Mantle up here and top out straight up.

Wasn't familiar with Super Direct, from what I can see it seems like this fun little problem is quite similar.

Thanks RR

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#68939 - 10/01/13 12:14 AM Re: CCK Top out boulder problem between reg. & direct [Re: EliHamblet]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
It's a variation to the "super direct finish". Instead of climbing out through the pebbly horizontal you circumnavigate around right, skipping the 5.11 part. It's actually less contrived than the "super direct" and feels harder than a lot of other 5.10s.


Edited by TrappDyke (10/01/13 12:15 AM)

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#68967 - 10/08/13 04:50 PM Re: CCK Top out boulder problem between reg. & direct [Re: TrappDyke]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Interesting

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