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#6901 - 10/02/02 05:15 PM moby grape

Has anyone done this? Did you bring two ropes? What were the belays like? just wondering because i may be doing it in less than perfect conditions, and wanted to know what my retreating options are...

#6902 - 10/02/02 05:33 PM Re: moby grape

You absolutely want to bring two ropes. The belays are all good and with two exceptions have no fixed gear. So if you bail, you will probably need to leave some gear. There is a rap station (2 bolts) about 150ft up the butress, above Reppy's crack. And there is another one (peg & fixed nut) at the end of the "triangular roof" pitch, off to the left. - Other than that the route is pretty clean.

#6903 - 10/02/02 05:57 PM Re: moby grape
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
I found a personal site that has some good photos of different parts of the route. (Unfortunately it has some so-so photos, too!) It's at:
- Marc

#6904 - 10/03/02 06:05 PM Re: moby grape
powpierre Offline

Registered: 04/28/01
Posts: 56
Loc: reno,nv
A friend and I did it several years ago. It has to be one of the best in New England for the grade. We took only one rope as there are so few fixed anchors we knew we would be leaving gear if we bailed anyway. I took a look at the photo page and it ends after 6 or 7 pitches. It is possible to do 3 or 4 more by stepping well left where the route would otherwise peter out. A pitch with a great boulder start then a pitch where you have to escape right out of a chimney/overhang and across a slab. There is then a pitch up a corner reminiscent of olive oil in Red Rocks. The last is slabby around and thru short brush. I would guess each of the pitches also check in at 5.8.
We actually found the walk off the hardest part of the route to find. We ended up bushwacking for 2 hours and I was more scared then than on the route.

#6905 - 10/03/02 07:30 PM Re: moby grape [Re: powpierre]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Powpierre describes what sounds like the way I did it last year. The pitch above the FoF starts by walking 20' left on a good ledge, and a bouldery type move. The next pitch (which isn't covered in Chauvin's otherwise good description) involved the traumatic "exit right from a chimney" move. The chimney was a recess in the right wall of a large left-facing corner. I was thoroughly rattled by that move. I found it as hard as the triangular roof and as intimidating as the Finger, both of which were on my leads. The quality was high right up to the last pitch, where we finally got some mossy rock to deal with.

#6906 - 10/04/02 01:55 AM Re: moby grape
Julie Offline

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Did it this past summer. If you even think you might possibly maybe consider retreating, bring two ropes at the very minimum. I've heard there's a rap line; but it's certainly NOT bolted, it's NOT the Gunks, it's NOT anywhere near anyone who you can holler for help. Belays are fine, but they're gear. Generally, don't head up Cannon unless you KNOW you've got good conditions, or you KNOW you'll be fine in all kinds of bad conditions, because the Notches have their own personal little weather systems. Best not to have to retreat ... if it's iffy, stop at Rumney. Moby will still be there, save it for good conditions.

That's just my (conservative) $0.02, though.

Xerox a copy of the Chauvin Guides description; that'll do. start early; you don't want to be under another party. The cruxes are well-protected, but there are sections of loose alpine shit too. We simulclimbed right, after the Finger, ended up belaying a few rough spots, just follow your nose upwards.

Descent beta: Find your way down to the heli-pad (should be easily visible, might have to bushwhack a little). From there: take the SOUTH (climber's left) 'path' from the helipad (a little counterintuitive, as it heads back towards the cliff). Don't head into the deeper bushes; follow trail-lets, slab-scramble a bit, aiming down to the top of the Old Man (identifiable from all the manmade stuff holding it on). From there, a steep trail heads to north side of the lake.

Oh, and have fun!

#6907 - 10/05/02 04:16 AM Re: moby grape [Re: Julie]

Thanks everyone

Update - me and my friend headed up there today, friday, and when we got to the cliff it was soaking wet, and windy, and there was mist coming down. for some reason, we still went for it. i lead reppy's crack and ran it up to the bolt belay. it was wet, but i just had to be really careful with my feet, and although i was scared, everything went well. then, i "led" that next fourth class pitch to below the roof. my friend took over, and led the roof, although the slappy finger crack leading up to it was soaking, and was pretty sketchy. he pulled the crux with a few grunts and got up to the belay. i had a hard time following with our bag...but pulled through the roof with some cold hands. the rain really started coming down now, and the next pitch was a waterfall, so we BAILED. rapped down to the fourth class ledge, and simul climbed down to the bolt belay. here we made it in two raps (we only had one rope) to the ground. i couldn't stop shivering. it was definitely a fun day though! thanks for your beta...we'll have to get back there and climb that looming finger of fate, if its still there!

#6908 - 10/07/02 01:35 PM Re: moby grape
CaptainNoPro Offline

Registered: 10/24/00
Posts: 228
Loc: Northern VT
If you ever venture above your high point here is some beta. (The pics on the website given are very misleading for the top of the climb. Looks like they got off route.)
Go right across psyche dike and climb a right facing loosish kind of corner. Climb some horizontal cracks to a belay down and left of the sickle (a left pointing finger of rock directly below the finger). Climb up and right to a hairy finger traverse onto the sickle. Pull the sickle, climb either the right or left side of the big flake. run out the slab above to a crack/flake belay. Hike left along a ledge to a wet dike. Pull a wierd boulder move through the headwall on the dike (number 5 tricam works awesome) and work up and right to another big ledge. From here you can see a cave up and slightly right at the top of a left facing corner. Climb the corner and exit the cave on the right and belay just above the cave. Two options are available for the finsh. Option 1:Go up and slightly right to a short headwall (6') with numerous cracks splitting the headwall. There is an easy slab with no gear below the headwall. Make your choice of hand, fist or offwidth to climb the headwall. A big flat terrace presents itself with a crack in the back. This is a great finish.
Option 2: from the belay above the cave, make dicey friction moves (5.7-5.7+) to the obvious left facing corner called kurt's corner. Climb this beautiful corner with great gear and belay just below where the corner peters out. Climb up and right out of the corner and diagnol up and right through hummocks and wet slabs with little protection but very easy climbing to the top.
Option 1 has the better finish on the platform at the top, but option 2 has excellent climbing in kurt's corner.


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