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#69101 - 10/22/13 01:06 PM Bitchy Virgin question
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
OK, so I have to ask...
I haven't climbed this thing in a few years but I walked under it the other day and this has been bugging me. When I did it a while back, I simply couldn't find any pro on the second pitch face (once you pass the roof on the right). I spent ages wandering left, right, up, down looking for something, trying to fiddle in micro-cams and micro-tricams and ultimately just kept going without placing anything. Usually I'm the guy who finds the #1 nut placement or the groove that is only as deep as the head of the blue Alien, but in this case I utterly failed.

To appease that nagging feeling, could someone please give me some detailed gear beta in case I ever climb it again? Where exactly did you get some gear in and what kind of gear was it?

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#69102 - 10/22/13 01:30 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: tradjunkie]
Glenn Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 71
Loc: Tx
Not sure if I've ever done this one BITD (probably did, but obviously it wasn't very memorable), but the comments on Mountain Project concur with you that it's R and runout. Seems the consensus is "look for bad tricam placements, and if you don't find any ... look some more".

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#69104 - 10/22/13 02:41 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: Glenn]
Glenn Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 71
Loc: Tx
I wanted to add that everyone's version of "R" is subjective (stating the obvious here). One person's teetering pink tricam at the very lip of a shallow flared horizontal might be bomber, while for someone else ... not so much. Depends on your own personal comfort level, climbing ability, etc. etc. I've run out sections of 5.6 - 5.9 climbing (usually after harder sections) 20 to 30 feet because I was in the zone, and other days I've been a basket case unless I had a bomber blue Camelot at my chest lol.

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#69105 - 10/22/13 03:12 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: tradjunkie]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Your protection on that pitch is "don't fall". There really isn't anything all that trustworthy.

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#69113 - 10/22/13 04:15 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: Glenn]
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Well, if there was a teetering pink tricam placement, where was it? I looked. Pink, white, black, I didn't get one, teetering or not.

The Gray Dick is now calling it G-PG, I think, and obviously it's a little thin on pro, but I thought other climbers had managed to get something in somewhere. A single mediocre placement, maybe, but that's more than nothing. (And clearly, there are many others besides myself, such as retroscree, who just climbed it without finding any pro.)

If there's a lousy, wobbly pink tricam in a shallow crack on the right hand side of the natural diagonal line, 8-10' above the roofline, that would be the kind of info I'd love to know. If it's a flaring purple TCU placement with one cam barely touching, 10' off to the left, great. Just let me know. If it's a big secret and you want to PM me, fine.

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#69114 - 10/22/13 04:23 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: Glenn]
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Oh, I'm fine with "R", and I've run out harder climbs for longer distances, I'm just confused because I feel like I missed something, and that feels like a failure.

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#69122 - 10/22/13 05:53 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: tradjunkie]
Glenn Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 71
Loc: Tx
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
Well, if there was a teetering pink tricam placement, where was it? I looked. Pink, white, black, I didn't get one, teetering or not.



I was speaking hypothetically here lol, and I really wish I had some specific gear beta for you, but I don't. I'm guessing the reason you couldn't find any is because there isn't any to find ... and no big secret or conspiracy going on. One commenter on MP mentioned being 15' over a white tricam, and a few others mentioned R conditions (over aid type pieces). I certainly wouldn't call it a failure on your part ... you did successfully climb it, didn't you? wink

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#69123 - 10/22/13 08:57 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: tradjunkie]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
(And clearly, there are many others besides myself, such as retroscree, who just climbed it without finding any pro.)

I think I might have found a placement or two, but not necessarily protection, if you know what I mean. I kind of remember a small tri-cam, but felt it would fail in a fall. There might have been another tri-cam or small Alien placement later on , but a lot of the rock seemed hollow or questionable. I treated it as a 5.4 solo.

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#69124 - 10/22/13 09:05 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: retroscree]
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Yeah, retro, your experience sounds like mine. There was a spot to leave a pink tricam on climber's left in a flared, shallow horizontal, and it held 2 biners and a sling, but I'd be astonished if it held more than that. I also agree it felt more like 5.4 than 5.5 (or even the old grade of 5.6).

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#69135 - 10/23/13 02:32 PM Re: Bitchy Virgin question [Re: tradjunkie]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
I also agree it felt more like 5.4 than 5.5 (or even the old grade of 5.6).

The 5.6 move or two is on P1.

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