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#69111 - 10/22/13 04:03 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
Jean Climbs Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/22/13
Posts: 3
Loc: Vermont
Climbed Sixish yesterday and found the fixed anchor at the top of Pitch One to be disturbing. It is webbing built onto 3 rusty pitons in the horizontal. The left 2 pins are slung with bright tubular webbing and the right pin has its own webbing which is tied at a different length so it is not equalized with the left side. In addition, there is what looks to be 5mm perlon threaded through all 3 pins in the dreaded American Triangle configuration with a single piece of quick-lock style triangular hardware attached. (Personally I wouldn't put ANY weight on this much less use it for a rap anchor!) Seeing as this is a somewhat popular beginner climb (I imagine new leaders use it a lot) I wonder how often this stuff is used unknowingly. Yes, it can be backed up with a small cam in the same horizontal crack, but seems to me at least replacing and/or equalizing the webbing and cutting away the perlon and funky hardware would be advised. I do not know the protocol or if local climbers generally take care of replacing anchors, so I am posting for both info/awareness and if to see if anyone has appropriate comments concerning this specific anchor. I have a photo but could not find the "File Manager" anywhere to attach the photo to this post.

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#69130 - 10/23/13 02:59 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Jean Climbs]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
"I do not know the protocol or if local climbers generally take care of replacing anchors"

The Preserve inspects & maintains the bolted anchors, the rest is subject to the whims of climbers. People like anchors, they build them. People don't like anchors, they chop them. People think anchors are dangerous, they replace them.

Thanks for posting the Sixish situation. The sagacity of such anchor being in place is questionable, but if it stands it should at least be safe and pretty - equalized software and all.

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#69132 - 10/23/13 04:48 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
The best thing that could happen would be for those pins to be removed. You can get a perfectly good gear anchor there.

Perhaps the real problem is that the Preserve built, or started building, rap routes but never did anything about marking them from the top so people could find them.

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#69133 - 10/23/13 04:59 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
On another topic, I noticed after an ascent of CCK direct last Friday that there is new a rap anchor on the tree at the top of CCK direct. I almost took it down and will still if I'm back there soon, but didn't at the time because I was in a hurry.

This rap anchor sends descending parties straight down CCK and is one of an increasing number of textbook examples of how to ruin popular routes by adding, to people lining up to climb the route, a new set of people rapping down it. There's a Preserve bolted rappel at most a few hundred feet to the North, but you have to know the cliff. (The High E rappel is further north but quite near too.)

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#69179 - 11/03/13 12:08 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Rap line down Dry Martini/Tequila Mockingbird is in very bad shape. Former anchor had some tricams and hexes, now its just two knifeblades that flex under weight.

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#69180 - 11/03/13 06:07 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Those pins have been the only anchor for a while and they are a timebomb. I chopped that rap line from the tree up top a while back but I guess some folks would rather take their chances than walk a few meters.

Originally Posted By: Lucander
Rap line down Dry Martini/Tequila Mockingbird is in very bad shape. Former anchor had some tricams and hexes, now its just two knifeblades that flex under weight.

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#69181 - 11/03/13 07:49 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: ianmanger]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
ianmanger,

which alternative rap line do you recommend? going right to madame g/blueberry ledges adds to congestion. going left to three pines isn't exactly desirable.

as of last season the second anchor (pins mentioned above) were in good shape - supplemented with a few fixed pieces and fresh software.

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#69182 - 11/03/13 08:11 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Lucander
which alternative rap line do you recommend? going right to madame g/blueberry ledges adds to congestion. going left to three pines isn't exactly desirable.

So what you're saying is: Whaaaaa! There isn't a rap line exactly where I want it at the top of my route and I might have to walk a little bit.

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#69183 - 11/03/13 08:45 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: retroscree]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Pretty much, yes. Judging by the conditions of the pitons, which are relics, it's a "historic" descent route as well. If we're going to get petty, I'm pulling that card.

The facts are, (1) as long as there is a well-maintained rappel station at the top on a solid tree (which there is), people are going to use it. (2) not everyone is as smart as retro or anyone else who uses this site. (3) people will take risks and rap off of bad anchors. Maybe it's Darwinism at work, but I don't want to spend my day cleaning up the mess.

Therefore, I posted about the condition of the anchor in question. Folks who follow this site and plan accordingly by (1) rappelling with double ropes (2) walking off towards the Uberfall alongside some other zealots who think it's a good use of their day off and would rather not be climbing another route or (3) bringing spare gear and reinforcing the anchor.

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#69185 - 11/03/13 09:39 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Lucander
Pretty much, yes. Judging by the conditions of the pitons, which are relics, it's a "historic" descent route as well. If we're going to get petty, I'm pulling that card.

The facts are, (1) as long as there is a well-maintained rappel station at the top on a solid tree (which there is), people are going to use it. (2) not everyone is as smart as retro or anyone else who uses this site. (3) people will take risks and rap off of bad anchors. Maybe it's Darwinism at work, but I don't want to spend my day cleaning up the mess.

Therefore, I posted about the condition of the anchor in question. Folks who follow this site and plan accordingly by (1) rappelling with double ropes (2) walking off towards the Uberfall alongside some other zealots who think it's a good use of their day off and would rather not be climbing another route or (3) bringing spare gear and reinforcing the anchor.

If you want to maximize your climbing, maybe you should go back into the gym.

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