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#69288 - 11/18/13 07:34 PM Crack climbing at the Gunks?
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 16
Aside from Sonja and Supercrack, what are the proper crack (where one relies on jamming only) routes or boulder problems at the Gunks?

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#69289 - 11/18/13 08:27 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
Adrian Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/12/09
Posts: 73
Does Golden Dream count?

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#69290 - 11/18/13 09:03 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Adrian]
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 16
I have not done this one since I never get there early enough to get into Peterskill. It's a book of some sort, right?

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#69291 - 11/18/13 09:33 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Harvest Moon

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#69292 - 11/18/13 09:49 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
Ralph Offline
member

Registered: 02/01/07
Posts: 138
slevin,

Bottom of the page,at The Place That No One Talks About

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#69293 - 11/18/13 10:35 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Ralph]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 136
Loc: ny
LC crack to go along with Evelyn

Not on topic, but if you've never been up to Ragged Mountain there are some decent cracks there, and of course the daks have a multitude of splitters.
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#69296 - 11/19/13 02:43 AM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: fotovult]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Up in Arms at the left end of Near Trapps. A move or two on Eastertime Too. Ringwraith at Skytop. A few other short cracks at Lost City.

But one really can't develop jamming technique at the Gunks; it's just too easy to cheat.

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#69299 - 11/19/13 12:46 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?

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#69300 - 11/19/13 02:20 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Resistance at Lost City as well. There is also that elusive route called Clasdestine Crack Climb, but the name will tell you that you will find it difficult to locate. In reality there are very few pure cracks in the Gunks, where jamming is the only technique that you can use. By few I mean...less than 5, and even those are short sections of routes.

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#69301 - 11/19/13 02:20 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 16
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?

Could you elaborate where it is? By Black crack, do you mean the Black Boulder crack or some other place? I have my high-top shoes and tape all ready to go!!!


Edited by slevin (11/19/13 02:30 PM)

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#69302 - 11/19/13 02:21 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
nonya Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
You need to jam through the crux of climb and punishment. I wouldn't call it "crack climb", but I'm not sure there is a way to cheat your way through it without jamming.

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#69304 - 11/19/13 05:57 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
About 30ft down the talus from the red wall chasm and towards Black crack if I'm remembering it correctly. There are two heavily chalked 'slopers on a face' problems on the outside walls (at the end towards Black crack) and an obvious cave with the crack in the ceiling. The crack extends up both outer faces of the cave. Tape won't cut it. I was thinking bubble wrap.



Originally Posted By: slevin
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?

Could you elaborate where it is? By Black crack, do you mean the Black Boulder crack or some other place? I have my high-top shoes and tape all ready to go!!!

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#69305 - 11/19/13 06:48 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 16
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
About 30ft down the talus from the red wall chasm and towards Black crack if I'm remembering it correctly. There are two heavily chalked 'slopers on a face' problems on the outside walls (at the end towards Black crack) and an obvious cave with the crack in the ceiling. The crack extends up both outer faces of the cave.

Now I feel like an idiot (which is not to say that I am not one already) smile I thought I know the Gunks fairly well and yet I have no idea of the place you are talking about. Just realized that I have heard of the black crack at LC... doh, that's what happends if you spend most of your time bouldering ... ok, i will check it out


Edited by slevin (11/19/13 07:02 PM)

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#69306 - 11/19/13 10:20 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?


It's literally under a boulder pile in front of the Texas Flake formation (this is at Lost City). I understand Rich Romano bouldered it many years ago. Photo:


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#69307 - 11/20/13 01:02 AM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
It goes, boys...

thanks Mike..

Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?


It's literally under a boulder pile in front of the Texas Flake formation (this is at Lost City). I understand Rich Romano bouldered it many years ago. Photo:


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#69316 - 11/21/13 12:34 AM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: slevin
Aside from Sonja and Supercrack, what are the proper crack (where one relies on jamming only) routes or boulder problems at the Gunks?


One that hasn't been mentioned is Low Exposure. Nice climb, a bit burly. Very short, obviously.

GO

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#69317 - 11/21/13 12:51 AM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 16
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
It's literally under a boulder pile in front of the Texas Flake formation (this is at Lost City). I understand Rich Romano bouldered it many years ago.

Looks pretty awesome, though if that red thing in the photo is a full size haulbag, it's a bit too tall for a boulder problem. I will check it out this weekend.

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#69319 - 11/21/13 01:37 AM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
It goes, boys...


As in, you've done it? (Lynn Hill''s quote and meaning, originally)

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#69320 - 11/21/13 02:55 AM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Ha. That should be 'it apparently goes, boys.' Was referring to the line about Romano. Any idea on the grade?


Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
It goes, boys...


As in, you've done it? (Lynn Hill''s quote and meaning, originally)

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#69338 - 11/25/13 06:52 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 16
So, beeing a proper idiot, I failed to find that crack past Saturday. Though bouldering at LC was way better then the Trapps, so was not bummed about it at all. Someone at the Brauhaus when asked about that crack said something like "really? it's so gnarly..." which made me want it even more!

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#69340 - 11/26/13 07:10 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
TARGHEE Offline
newbie

Registered: 06/30/00
Posts: 48
Loc: NYC
How about Last Frontier in the trapps...it's been a while but I seem to recall full on overhanging hand jamming and a heel hook finish to boot!

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