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#69288 - 11/18/13 07:34 PM Crack climbing at the Gunks?
slevin Online   content
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 23
Aside from Sonja and Supercrack, what are the proper crack (where one relies on jamming only) routes or boulder problems at the Gunks?

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#69289 - 11/18/13 08:27 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
Adrian Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/12/09
Posts: 73
Does Golden Dream count?

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#69290 - 11/18/13 09:03 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Adrian]
slevin Online   content
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 23
I have not done this one since I never get there early enough to get into Peterskill. It's a book of some sort, right?

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#69291 - 11/18/13 09:33 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Harvest Moon

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#69292 - 11/18/13 09:49 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: slevin]
Ralph Offline
member

Registered: 02/01/07
Posts: 142
slevin,

Bottom of the page,at The Place That No One Talks About

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#69293 - 11/18/13 10:35 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Ralph]
fotovult Online   content
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 142
Loc: ny
LC crack to go along with Evelyn

Not on topic, but if you've never been up to Ragged Mountain there are some decent cracks there, and of course the daks have a multitude of splitters.
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www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#69296 - 11/19/13 02:43 AM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: fotovult]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Up in Arms at the left end of Near Trapps. A move or two on Eastertime Too. Ringwraith at Skytop. A few other short cracks at Lost City.

But one really can't develop jamming technique at the Gunks; it's just too easy to cheat.

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#69299 - 11/19/13 12:46 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?

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#69300 - 11/19/13 02:20 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Resistance at Lost City as well. There is also that elusive route called Clasdestine Crack Climb, but the name will tell you that you will find it difficult to locate. In reality there are very few pure cracks in the Gunks, where jamming is the only technique that you can use. By few I mean...less than 5, and even those are short sections of routes.

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#69301 - 11/19/13 02:20 PM Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? [Re: ianmanger]
slevin Online   content
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 23
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?

Could you elaborate where it is? By Black crack, do you mean the Black Boulder crack or some other place? I have my high-top shoes and tape all ready to go!!!


Edited by slevin (11/19/13 02:30 PM)

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