Shout Box

Who's Online
1 registered (1 invisible), 17 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 34 of 39 < 1 2 ... 32 33 34 35 36 38 39 >
Topic Options
#68664 - 08/27/13 06:41 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Julie]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
I would not cry over the pin on Maria Direct, if it were actually gone. I back it up with a cam anyway. It is completely unnecessary.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

Top
#68687 - 09/01/13 12:24 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: SethG]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Why is there a fixed anchor at the top of pitch one of Bonnie's? The slings are really faded and stiff, and though there are some newer cordalettes attached it is unclear what they are attached to. No one descends from this anchor, you can't reach it from the top. It should be chopped and removed, it's nothing but litter as far as I can tell. I've never used it without adding other pieces anyway.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

Top
#68688 - 09/01/13 01:46 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: SethG]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Do you mean the sling nest 10-15 feet (?) past the crux? If so, that has been placed/removed many times through the years. It is a convenience toprope anchor.

Top
#68689 - 09/01/13 02:01 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Dana]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
No, that one is gone, I hope, for good. I'm talking about the one at the end of the long pitch one. It also needs to go!
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

Top
#68699 - 09/02/13 05:39 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: SethG]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I've said it over and over again, but I'll say it again.

Fixed gear that is not the bolts placed by the Preserve has no special status. According to both current rules and longstanding common practice, anyone can remove fixed gear and anyone can replace it. Of course, since the competence to place pitons has vanished among climbers who don't do alpine climbing and/or big wall aid routes, people with the will and motivation to place fixed gear anchors expect those anchors to become semi-permanent, and not disappear in a few days, as might easily have happened in the past. But those expectations are not justified by any Preserve rules or universally agreed-on community practices, and so anyone adding or enhancing anchors has to be prepared to see their work undone, and anyone planning on using such anchors ought to have an alternate plan in mind. There is no god-given right to finding a rap anchor where you want it.

Some people replace and/or enhance anchors as what they perceive to be a "public service," and in many cases people agree with them. On the other hand, removing anchors is also viewed as a "public service" by those who do that. Obviously, in many situations, we have different ideas about what constitutes a public service, which reflects the fact that, in general, there actually isn't a public that is being served, just groups with competing visions, not only of what climbing in general and trad climbing in particular ought to be about, but also about how climber modifications of the environment should fit in with Preserve ideals, which are hardly wilderness ideals and yet do envision limits on human impacts.

Top
#68701 - 09/03/13 01:34 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
I'm not sure if I'm the target of the info, Rich. But I know there is no need to seek permission to remove a tat anchor. I used to carry a knife with me but I lost it. If I find myself at the top of Bonnie's P1 again in the near future I plan to bring a knife and chop that crap.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

Top
#68705 - 09/03/13 08:48 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: SethG]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
The fixed "anchors" are more than an eyesore; they are dangerous. I would bet that about 5% or less of the climbers that rap off of these rats nests inspect what they are trusting their lives to. It's scary.

Top
#68752 - 09/07/13 03:42 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Dana]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Anchor atop The Nose is looking good.

Top
#68814 - 09/17/13 12:41 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Hey I was psyched to see a new pin on Feast of Fools for my (spray) onsight lead!
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

Top
#68963 - 10/06/13 08:52 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
AlexS Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/06/13
Posts: 1
I'm new on here and new to The Gunks; my first time climbing here was just this month. This place is amazing!

I personally find the numerous bolted rap anchors, placed 15 or so years ago, much more than just convenient. They seem well thought out, conservative to the trees and trails, remove visual detractors like colorful and often decaying webbing including potentially unsafe shifting pins and/or nuts, etc. With that said, I climbed The Sting for my first time last week and upon arriving at the anchor of about 5 passive pieces tied together with a yellow runner, 2 of the nuts were fully loose, another was not equalized and a couple others are simply held in by pebbles adhered to the inside of the crack. I realize this has been the anchor since at least '83, been utilized by hundreds of climbers and of course there's a crack there but a 2-bolt anchor seems prudent. Even if the pulls were only down the plumb-line of The Sting and not from lowering off/top-roping from Lisa or even Wasp Stop's abridged first pitch, I still think a bolted anchor would be better.

Yeah that's a long post for such a short route but hey, it's a phenomenal line!!!

Top
Page 34 of 39 < 1 2 ... 32 33 34 35 36 38 39 >


Moderator:  Mike Rawdon, Steven Cherry 
Sponsored