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#69400 - 12/12/13 02:32 PM Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Hey a belated congrats to cfrac-- his photo of Lindsay Chevernak on Erect Direction was published in this month's Rock & Ice, on p.20. The route is featured in the magazine's recurring feature "My Favorite 5.10."

It is an awesome photo. The perspective of the picture makes it appear as though the photographer had to be hanging in space, wearing a jet pack. It seems as though the photographer is too far from the edge to be hanging from the cliff, though I'm sure cfrac was doing just that.

The article is by Alison Osius, Executive Editor of the magazine. Besides using cfrac's photo, she makes reference to several Gunks.com characters, sometimes by name and sometimes more obliquely.

Osius mentions a free soloist who got stuck on ED and had to wait a while for a rescue. We all know this character, whose free solo exploits were a recent controversial subject right here on this site.

And the author also paraphrases an "Internet" comment about ED being a hard 5.10. I believe she is referring to a comment on Mountain Project by our own Gail.

And finally she quotes me by name, taking a line from my blog about CCK Direct. I feel a little funny about being included in this article, as I have never climbed Erect Direction! (I plan to rectify this in 2014. I am scared of the traverse on pitch two. I feel fine about the roofs at the top.)

Also she calls me a "local," which I'm sure would come as a surprise to many who post here. I'm sure most of you think of me as a tourist. But never mind all that, I'm now anointed a local, and an authority on CCK Direct!
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#69401 - 12/12/13 03:28 PM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: SethG]
curmudgeon Online   content
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 466
Good for you cfrac!

I once fell off following ED near the top and had to be lowered to the GT ledge. Ended up doing Moonlight and then traversed into ED to clean the last nut. Thanks RG for the solid belay!

That was many moons ago.

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#69416 - 12/13/13 02:45 PM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: curmudgeon]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
Thanks Seth and Curmudgeon! So I didn't use a jet pack, but I did use a wide angle lens and a portaledge turned sideways (facing out) to get out in space. I got the idea for that angle when I snapped a pic of Ranger Rob at the belay when we climbed it in the Winter. It just looked so cool looking at Rob in the snow-less corner and the snow covered tiers below dropping away beneath him.

I thought Aliso's write-up was excellent and gave ED the credit it deserves, it certainly is one of the best 5.10's around! The soloing story is so wild. Once you get to that hanging belay there is no easy way out and contemplating reversing that crab crawl is horrifying. I also can't imaging being a 5.10 leader from another area that doesn't have big roofs and heading up on ED.

Here's the photo for those who haven't seen the magazine and a couple of other shots from that same day:








From a few Winters ago:


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#69417 - 12/13/13 03:12 PM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: cfrac]
crimpy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/02/11
Posts: 330
Loc: Wawarsing
nice man. thanks!

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#69420 - 12/13/13 10:21 PM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: crimpy]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Congrats, Chris!

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#69422 - 12/13/13 10:34 PM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: Julie]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
That third photo is HOT! They should have used that one.

The second photo is kind of terrifying. That's why I haven't been up there yet.

And Ranger Rob is hot too, but not as hot.
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#69423 - 12/13/13 11:39 PM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: SethG]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 225
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Ya, that's weird - I think they published the least spectacular of the 4 pictures.

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#69921 - 12/14/13 10:56 PM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: Lucander]
fotovult Online   content
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 137
Loc: ny
Great work hombre - congrats!
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#69923 - 12/15/13 01:02 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: SethG]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Yeah, its physically incredibly awkward and yet really delicate at the same time. Escaping the corner is a trip and the moves up the face to the belay position are exciting. There's good gear, but a fall would be depressing.
Originally Posted By: SethG


The second photo is kind of terrifying. That's why I haven't been up there yet.

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#69924 - 12/15/13 03:34 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: ianmanger]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 225
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
[quote=ianmanger] a fall would be depressing. [quote=SethG]

Perfectly put...

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#69925 - 12/16/13 01:51 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: Lucander]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Since we're talking about it, I thought Coppertone told me that a big cam is useful for that scary traverse. But from the photo it doesn't appear to be so. You guys have any insight?
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#69926 - 12/16/13 02:07 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: SethG]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 225
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
A BD #5 keep you on tr for the crux and makes you feel like you'll only fall an inch if you blow it. Smaller gear will suffice, but something about the big purple feels so secure.

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#69945 - 12/16/13 04:07 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: SethG]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
The large cam placement is behind the climber in the photo. Being completely chickenshit, I made the mistake of not extending it enough. With a single cord, this is a good way to pick up a little extra difficulty on the exit.

Originally Posted By: SethG
Since we're talking about it, I thought Coppertone told me that a big cam is useful for that scary traverse. But from the photo it doesn't appear to be so. You guys have any insight?


Edited by ianmanger (12/16/13 04:09 AM)

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#71392 - 05/06/14 03:26 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: cfrac]
berlin Offline
newbie

Registered: 05/05/05
Posts: 39
Hi,
A couple weeks ago, I watch someone doing the roof.
The guys didnt climb the roof at the same place as this climber on the picture but on the left side. Is it a variation , did this climber on the pivture is doing the "direct" ??

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