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#69925 - 12/16/13 01:51 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: Lucander]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 714
Loc: NYC
Since we're talking about it, I thought Coppertone told me that a big cam is useful for that scary traverse. But from the photo it doesn't appear to be so. You guys have any insight?
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It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#69926 - 12/16/13 02:07 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: SethG]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
A BD #5 keep you on tr for the crux and makes you feel like you'll only fall an inch if you blow it. Smaller gear will suffice, but something about the big purple feels so secure.

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#69945 - 12/16/13 04:07 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: SethG]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
The large cam placement is behind the climber in the photo. Being completely chickenshit, I made the mistake of not extending it enough. With a single cord, this is a good way to pick up a little extra difficulty on the exit.

Originally Posted By: SethG
Since we're talking about it, I thought Coppertone told me that a big cam is useful for that scary traverse. But from the photo it doesn't appear to be so. You guys have any insight?


Edited by ianmanger (12/16/13 04:09 AM)

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#71392 - 05/06/14 03:26 AM Re: Congrats cfrac! Rock & Ice photo: Erect Direction [Re: cfrac]
berlin Offline
newbie

Registered: 05/05/05
Posts: 39
Hi,
A couple weeks ago, I watch someone doing the roof.
The guys didnt climb the roof at the same place as this climber on the picture but on the left side. Is it a variation , did this climber on the pivture is doing the "direct" ??

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