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#71268 - 04/07/14 02:34 AM Bolts on Turdland?
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 713
Loc: NYC
I climbed Turdland today (the 5.9 way). Nice route! I wasn't sure how much faith to put in these bolts. I don't know much about evaluating bolts or hangers, but these seemed pretty ancient to me. Is my concern well-founded, or not? What say you?
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#71278 - 04/07/14 03:25 PM Re: Bolts on Turdland? [Re: SethG]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Those bolts are terrible, it's why I only attempt that route when on "a game." Someday someone will replace them, and the route will lose a lot of its character...and be a lot more crowded.

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#71280 - 04/07/14 04:18 PM Re: Bolts on Turdland? [Re: Lucander]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 713
Loc: NYC
The route is still a pretty heads-up lead even if you assume the bolts will hold.
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It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#71283 - 04/09/14 01:39 AM Re: Bolts on Turdland? [Re: SethG]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
The two nested pins are not great, and one moves with just a slight bit of hand pressure.

By the way, Dave, you should do Nurdland. Pretty exciting.

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#71285 - 04/09/14 03:27 PM Re: Bolts on Turdland? [Re: Dana]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
I'm set with that, Dana.
Welcome to My Nightmare is about all I want to handle.

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#71286 - 04/09/14 09:44 PM Re: Bolts on Turdland? [Re: Lucander]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 713
Loc: NYC
I don't remember any "nested" pins on Turdland. It could be that the pins have been replaced? Dick mentions "pins" at the first rooflet but I remember clipping just a single pin, no nest. There is a second angle pin off-line to the right which protects the lower direct variation (not the upper direct at the final roof, but the lower-down bulge). I did not use this angle pin. And then there is another pin before the last bolt but I had good gear nearby and I skipped it.
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It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#71287 - 04/10/14 02:47 AM Re: Bolts on Turdland? [Re: SethG]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
The two pins - there is now just one it seems - were at the small overlap that is up and left from the first bolt.

Dave, I've done Welcome to My Nightmare and I thought that it was scarier than Nurdland. With modern gear Nurdland may not be R rated.

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#71288 - 04/10/14 03:02 AM Re: Bolts on Turdland? [Re: Dana]
Gail Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/01/07
Posts: 95
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I loved Turdland, thought it was a great climb. Much better than it's name suggests. That said, I did not lead Turdland.

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#71370 - 05/01/14 12:18 AM Re: Bolts on Turdland? [Re: Gail]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
"Nested"...I don't think it means what you think it does.

I always clipped just the better of the two.

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