There was no bolt and no pin present during the FFA 45 years ago. (I might add that no falls were taken by anyone in our party of three and there was no resting on or weighting of any piece. I led the route and did climb up and down a few times before committing to the moves.)
I placed a pin over the lip that is either the one under discussion or more likely one that has replaced my original Lost Arrow. My memory is that it is an excellent placement and that new pin in that spot, if required, will be good for many years.
I don't think the route is even close to being a candidate for a bolt. The real question is whether one could get in a small cam (or two? Or some Ballnuts?) if the pin was gone.
Forty-five years later, climbers ought to be aspiring to a better style of ascent, not a worse one.
Sorry, just wanted to ask a question. I am playing the devil's advocate and just making conversation.
If there was no place to put a pin there just over the lip, would everything still be the same. Would the first ascent still have gone ahead as planned or would it have been interrupted with much down climbing and lengthy hesitations. Would it have still happened on the same day or if not the next?
What do you think would have happened if there was no place to put a pin over the lip?
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.