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#71539 - 06/11/14 05:20 PM Re: Gunks bouldering for sending 5.10 through 5.11+ [Re: fotovult]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: fotovult
Originally Posted By: kenr


My concern about Gunks bouldering is that the few problems (with good landings) I\'ve looked at so far do not seem much like the cruxes of the Gunks 5.10s I\'ve done so far.


I agree - especially when that crux involves hanging on to work in a brassie, 15-ft above your last piece, while your leg is working like a singer sewing machine and you will your slipping fingers to stay put on delicate holds.

Strength and endurance go a long way, but I know more than a few climbers who can comfortably climb 5.12 but won\'t lead half the 10s in the gunks because they don\'t have the mental game.


I can\'t speak for anyone else, but for me, the mental game is a strength that needs to be worked in order to build, just like physical strength. Still, it does soothe the head somewhat for the muscles to report back that they\'re feeling solid, and they think they can make it to the next rest.

With that said, your anecdote about 5.12 climbers who aren\'t comfortable on all Gunks 5.10 is, I think, not just about a poor lead head. I\'ve always found that my onsight grades are lowest at the Gunks, and other places with a similar style (thin gear protected face climbing). When you\'re following a crack, no matter how hard it is, you can usually look up and figure out where the next place is you can get gear, where the next place is where you can get a good jam, or a good foot.

Often that is not so at the Gunks, where feet and hands are just white in a sea of white. Horizontals may or may not take gear, or feet, or hands. No way to tell until you get there. To me, that forces me to be much more conservative, and the grades reflect that. I suspect that I am not entirely unique in this, and it may help explain your anecdotal 5.12/5.10 climbers.

GO

P.S. - I took the liberty of removing the backslashes from the quoted posts above, to help keep them from multiplying any further.

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#71553 - 06/17/14 04:56 PM Re: Gunks bouldering for sending 5.10 through 5.11+ [Re: GOclimb]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Gabe - Welcome back! I, like you, don\'t really boulder but realize that it is a potentially powerful tool for breaking through the \"5.10 barrier\". My experience with what little bouldering I have done is remarkably in line with the comments above. Namely that the common boulder moves are very un-cliff-crux-like. Too often it\'s a \"contact move\" (e.g. slapping a sloper or rounded edge) or a big pinch (Black Bouler type move). I can see why boulderers enjoy this type of power-oriented challenge, but I can\'t think of many 5.10 cruxes like that. Secondly, since I bouldered alone on days when I didn\'t have a climbing partner, the prospect of landing on my back from a heel hooking problem (Andrew boulder\'s V4) or mantling insecurely onto a sloping shelf 10 feet up simply presented too much injury potential. Hell, I\'ve turned my ankle from 18 inches off the carriage road. Bottom line - I spent most of my profitable time on the boxcar traverse. Worked it R to L. And it was without a doubt effective at improving my ability to hang on small holds. No coincidence that I climbed No Solution (one of my hardest TR\'s, coming at a time when onsighting 10b was about my limit) clean within a few days of my first clean B\'car traverse.

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#71556 - 06/20/14 04:27 PM Re: Gunks bouldering for sending 5.10 through 5.11+ [Re: Mike Rawdon]
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 18
There are plenty of hard boulder traverses in the Gunks to work on endurance:
-- Keyhole Low traverse (v2)
-- Kama Sutra traverse (V3 slab)
-- Boxcar traverse (do it both ways!)
-- Who is Andrew? - an extended version of Andrews boulder problem (V5 roof traverse, you can do it back and fourth too), ---- Capsized Boulder traverse (hard V7)
-- Nameless Boulder traverse (v2)
-- the thin diagonal crack on the face opposite pebbles (v6-v7)
Once you are able to do all that... try Little Death (V10).

A well rounded boulderer who\'s flashing V4s on regular basis should be able to lead protectable Gunks 5.10s, IMHO. Someone who\'s able to work his way up V6-V7s should be able to work his way up 5.12s.

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#71557 - 06/21/14 02:16 PM Re: Gunks bouldering for sending 5.10 through 5.11+ [Re: slevin]
Ralph Offline
member

Registered: 02/01/07
Posts: 141
Who is Andrew?
And you know your traverses?
Andrew Zalewski Traverse

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#71558 - 06/21/14 09:41 PM Re: Gunks bouldering for sending 5.10 through 5.11+ [Re: slevin]
kenr Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/05/10
Posts: 36
Originally Posted By: slevin
A well rounded boulderer who\\\'s flashing V4s on regular basis should be able to lead protectable Gunks 5.10s

Yes, there\'s no doubt that outdoor bouldering is a great way to improve my outdoor climbing in the Gunks (provided I don\'t get injured).

But why should I do my outdoor bouldering in the Gunks?
Nowadays there\'s lots of other good bouldering around the NY-NJ-PA region. So why not work my way up to V4 at some of those other (more convenient) places?

Ken

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#71564 - 06/22/14 07:05 PM Re: Gunks bouldering for sending 5.10 through 5.11+ [Re: Ralph]
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 18
Originally Posted By: Ralph

Whoa! That\'s pretty rad! I have done all of these separately (Pebbles Left, Goldsteins and Lynn Hills traverses), but never even thought of linking them up. That link-up gotta clock-in at medium 5.14!

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#71565 - 06/22/14 07:11 PM Re: Gunks bouldering for sending 5.10 through 5.11+ [Re: kenr]
slevin Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/10
Posts: 18
Originally Posted By: kenr
[quote=slevin]
But why should I do my outdoor bouldering in the Gunks?
Nowadays there\\\'s lots of other good bouldering around the NY-NJ-PA region. So why not work my way up to V4 at some of those other (more convenient) places?

No real reason. I boulder in NYC (CP etc), Powerlines and the Gunks and like it all. Gunks bouldering is awesome and diverse, but a hour of laps on the Rambles slab does not suck either.

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#71568 - 06/22/14 11:58 PM Re: Gunks bouldering for sending 5.10 through 5.11+ [Re: slevin]
Ralph Offline
member

Registered: 02/01/07
Posts: 141
Originally Posted By: slevin
Originally Posted By: Ralph

but never even thought of linking them up.

Yeah, the gap move is pretty neat. I\'m 6\' and I\'m pretty sure Andrew is a touch shorter than me. He made it look much easier than it appears to be when you\'re standing there sizing it up.
It\'s out of my pay grade though, and I\'d probably need about two years of poppin my vinyassa to have a serious shot at it.

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