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#8026 - 03/13/03 07:23 PM
going west
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journeyman
Registered: 11/06/01
Posts: 98
Loc: Portland, OR
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Having grown up and lived all my life in NYC, it is time for me to get outta here and try somewhere new. I would like to go west and I have narrowed it down to Jackson Hole, Colorado, or California. Factors that come into play include low cost of living, and ease of finding a job as well as a place to live. I also want to be close to the mountains, which is key, probably my main reason for wanting to leave NY. Ideally, I'd like to be able to climb rock and ice, and snowboard all year round. Am I asking for too much? I studied Environmental Studies and Geology in school so I would like working in that field, but I would just as much like to work in outdoor retail or the hospitality industry, having experience in both. Main thing is, I am looking for a place with good people, good mountains and low cost of living. I really wanted to go to the Bay Area, but it would be way too expensive. Another thing, I havent been out to any of these places so I have no idea what to expect. This is where you guys come in. I would greatly appreciate any feedback. well, I hope I didnt bore you all too much. Thanks a bunch! Cheers,
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#8027 - 03/13/03 07:51 PM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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member
Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
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For Colorado I'd suggest you consider Grand Junction. Pretty good weather (the banana belt of Colorado), not expensive like a lot of Colorado towns, jobs (and maybe in your field) might be there, and its close to both Utah and Colorado climbing and snowboarding.
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#8028 - 03/13/03 08:21 PM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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member
Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 103
Loc: Las Vegas
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#8029 - 03/13/03 08:43 PM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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journeyman
Registered: 04/28/01
Posts: 56
Loc: reno,nv
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I lived in vegas for a while and it is hard to beat. Lots of jobs and 25 min to red rocks, 1 hour to mt Charleston for skiing in winter, and climbing in summer. Let me also throw out Reno where I currently live. Patagonia is a major employer here for outdoor retail possibilities. The cost of living is relatively cheap ( a little cheaper than Philly). We are 45 minutes from Tahoe basin for all the skiing you could want a dozen resorts. The Sierra's are right out your door so back country possibilities are there to be had. As for climbing it is 3.5 to Bishop, 3 to toulomne, 1.5 to lovers leap, 45 to Donner. It has its limits living in a cow town but San Fran is only 3.5 hrs away for culture or whatever
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#8031 - 03/13/03 09:36 PM
Re: going west
[Re: powpierre]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
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hookers. cant forget the hookers.
_________________________
tOOthless
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
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#8032 - 03/13/03 09:54 PM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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Auto Reply
Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
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Jackson is an expensive town to live in. Most everyone I've ever known from JH lives over the border in towns like Victor, Idaho and commutes. There should definitely be plenty of job opportunites in the hospitality industry though.
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.
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#8034 - 03/14/03 05:12 PM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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member
Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 127
Loc: Morristown, NJ
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Try Bend, Oregon. Mt. Hood has good glaciations for year round skiing/boarding. It is very near Smith Rocks for your climbing needs and far enough in land that it avoids the dreaded Pacific Northwest Rain cycles. The town itself is laid back and pretty cool but definitely a small town. I know nothing about the employment opportunities in the area.
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#8035 - 03/14/03 09:09 PM
Re: going west
[Re: LesterLeBlanc]
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addict
Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 421
Loc: New Paltz, New York
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La is a horrible horrible place.
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#8036 - 03/14/03 09:27 PM
Re: going west
[Re: intrepid02]
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member
Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 127
Loc: Morristown, NJ
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I'll make a case for the greater NYC area. Gunks 90 minutes away. Seneca 7 hours away. Adirondacks 4 hours away. White Mountains 5 hours away. The greatest city in the world on your doorstep. I know it doesn't have the big mountain feel of a place out west but for sheer number of routes in a concentrated area it is hard to beat (hold your fire Colorado elitists). That reminds me I gotta go Im ice climbing in the Daks this weekend.
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#8037 - 03/14/03 09:40 PM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
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You've narrowed it to one small tourist town smack in the middle of big mountains in WY, and two farily large states. Seems pretty broad to me. Before throwing out a lot of suggestions, have you considered what you're really looking for? Do you want to be in a big city, relatively close to a big city, or just have some city ammenities? Or do you want to be in a small town? You said you wanted to be close to the mountains but you had considered the Bay Area. NYC is closer to the mountains than the Bay Area is.
Maybe if you can narrow things down a bit more? I'd second the vote for SLC since it has a lot of what you seem to be looking for plus the city ammenities without it being a big city. It's also so close to so much else (eg: the Tetons are an easy weekend drive). However, culturally you trade the big city vibrancy and party scene for access to the mountains. It's hard to find a good martini here, but I can be at Alta or Snowbird within a half hour from my house.
Remember that the interior west is politically far more conservative than anything you're used to on the coasts or in the Northeast. Some transplanted folks find this unbearable. Our liberal democrats - the few that you can find on the legislature - are more conservative than the republicans in CT (where I lived for the 22 years before moving here).
Personally, I couldn't stand living in Vegas, anywhere in either the LA basin or Bay Area (too crowded), and most of the small towns (I prefer a choice of sushi restaurants). Your best bet might be to visit potential towns / cities of interest and look at them with a very critical eye. Pay attention to lifestyle issues, local politics, etc., not where the good climbing crags are located. Pick up local papers. Listen to local radio. Check out the job market. Read the local alternative paper(s).
I can tell you more about SLC as I suspect Hank Moon can. PM if you like.
_________________________
- Marc
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#8040 - 03/15/03 12:35 AM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1751
Loc: Flagstaff
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I'd probably second Salt Lake City. Having just gotten back, its pretty nice being able to rock climb or ice climb 10min-40min from town, and being really close to world class rock.
I currently live in the Bay Area (after have lived in NYC on and off for 12 yrs) and the climbing here is great but you have to like driving. Calavaras Dome, Yosemite, Tuolumne, Donners Summit, are all world class areas but they are also 3-4 hrs away. Now if you live in Sacramento, they are all 1-2 hrs away. As for cost of living, for $1000-$2000/mos expect to get a shoebox or if you want to buy, look at $500,000 for a fixer-upper if they can still be found.
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#8042 - 03/15/03 04:46 AM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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addict
Registered: 01/09/00
Posts: 578
Loc: NoCal
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Have you thought about Denver or the suburbs outside of Denver. I just visited there and, while the cost of living is high INSIDE Denver city limits, it goes down considerably when you get to the outskirts. But, put this all in perspective...NYC is the most expensive city in the U.S. in which to live.
Denver is thriving, adding new hospitals, bringing in new developments. My friends live in Castle Rock and absolutely love it. They don't go into Denver at all any more.
I also have a friend living in Durango,CO (in the southwestern corner) who is living the dirtbag lifestyle right now. But, he skies at Purgatory and climbs when he wants. He's working constant temp jobs all over the place.....but, alas, he's young (23) and have the time and energy to look for bargains every where he goes. He's also into geology and has a degree in it. He's got some lines into geology gigs in the area but nothing has panned out.
Are you looking to live this type of temporary lifestyle? or are you looking to put down roots? It sounds more like you want to move to play, which is cool. I say, explore while you can because you'll be settled down with roots soon enough.
If you're willing to explore, you can move from city to city until you find something you like. In the space of 5 years, you should find something good. It always takes 1-2 years before you really feel good about a new place anyway.
Kathy
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#8043 - 03/15/03 02:22 PM
Re: going west
[Re: trad_rock]
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old hand
Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1035
Loc: hamlet's hand
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missoula, missoula, missoula...five or six major crags, from bolted limestone to big walls, within 45 minutes, very steep skiing/snowboarding right outside of town, fly-fishing/kayaking galore, ungodly amounts of hiking/biking/cross-country trails in ungodly amounts of wilderness wrapped around one of the most progressive small cities with a top-notch school you'll find west of the mississippi...
_________________________
Shongum ain't Indian, it's Sha-WAN-gunk.
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#8045 - 03/15/03 02:49 PM
Re: going west
[Re: oenophore]
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old hand
Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1035
Loc: hamlet's hand
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name a city out west that doesn't...
_________________________
Shongum ain't Indian, it's Sha-WAN-gunk.
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#8046 - 03/15/03 04:04 PM
Re: going west
[Re: yorick]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
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Here's one of the big differences between a town like Missoula and a small city like SLC. Below are the concert listings (from Pollstar) for Missoula, now till 3/14/2005. The SLC listings for the same time period are at: this web page since the 300 are too much to copy paste. The pollstar listings generally do not include classical music or dance. This is not to say Missoula is a bad place to live, but if this type of stuff is important to someone, it could sway the decision. Since the original poster said he lived in NYC all his life, any move to the mountain west will be a shock - some places more than others. If the goal is to play well rather than put down roots, then by all means, travel around and sample a bunch of places as another posted suggested. Sat 03/15/03 Swivel Hips Smith Blue Heron Fri 03/21/03 The Waybacks Elk's Lodge Sat 03/22/03 Xiu Xiu Jay's Upstairs Mon 03/24/03 Bigger Lovers Jay's Upstairs Tue 03/25/03 "Lord Of The Dance" Troupe Two Adams Event Center Wed 03/26/03 Five Foot Thick Buck's Fri 03/28/03 The Shakedowns Jay's Upstairs Fri 03/28/03 Drums & Tuba The Ritz Sat 03/29/03 New Monsoon Top Hat Mon 03/31/03 Sound Tribe Sector 9 Wilma Theatre Wed 04/02/03 Shindig Jay's Upstairs Wed 04/09/03 The Midnight Evils Jay's Bar Sun 04/13/03 Laurie Lewis Crystal Theatre Wed 04/16/03 Deathray Davies Jay's Upstairs Sat 04/19/03 Bobby Bare University Theatre Thu 04/24/03 Clumsy Lovers The Ritz Tue 04/29/03 Janis Ian University Theatre Sat 05/03/03 Emerson Drive Adams Event Center Sat 05/03/03 Trick Pony Adams Event Center Sat 05/03/03 Lucy Kaplansky Elk's Lodge Fri 05/09/03 Easily Amused University Of Montana Mon 05/19/03 Leo Kottke University Theatre Fri 05/23/03 Ellen Says No Sean Kelly's Sat 05/24/03 Ellen Says No Sean Kelly's Wed 05/28/03 Idlewild Adams Event Center Wed 05/28/03 Pearl Jam Adams Event Center Sat 07/19/03 Gary Puckett High School Mon 08/11/03 Tracy Byrd Western Montana Fair Wed 11/05/03 Patty Larkin To Be Announced
_________________________
- Marc
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#8047 - 03/15/03 07:34 PM
Re: going west
[Re: Bolt_Skytop]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1914
Loc: Los Angeles
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Bolt: Care to elaborate on why you find LA so horrible? I'm an east coast transplant and initially I had a hard time adjusting to LA. There are areas of LA I would never want to live. But other areas are terrific. It's not so much a city as it is a patchwork of many cities and areas. I've been enjoying Pasadena more and more. The mountains are 5 minutes from my door and I've got half a dozen top climbing locales within 2 hours drive. And Yosemite within a 4-5 hour drive. Pasadena is a pretty cool little town. It's got Cal Tech and JPL ... very much a college town ... and it has a decidely east coast feel to it ... except it has awesome southern CA weather. Quite a bit of culture and history as well. From old gold mines in the mountains to the Huntington museum to the Green & Green masterpiece arts & crafts homes. Used to live in Silver Lake and enjoyed that area very much. Bohemian and funky ... kind of Greenwich Village west coast with a lot more garage bands and 50s cars. Other parts of LA I would not go near ... like Santa Monica. 'Course, I have to live out for my business. Given my druthers, I'd probably live in N. Cali. What's *your* beef with LA?
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#8049 - 03/16/03 12:46 AM
Re: going west
[Re: MarcC]
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old hand
Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1035
Loc: hamlet's hand
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depends on the culture you're looking for... a lot of indie bands hit missoula on their way through to seattle or denver, um's got a decent college radio station, there's a great record shop called rockin' rudies that won't make you miss bleeker street, there's a funky farmer's market on sundays, good bookstores, the lit department's been stellar since richard hugo and leslie fieldler shaped the thing back in the 60's and william kittiridge took it over in the 80's, and the lefties from berkely picked-up and moved there en mass 15 years ago (missoula's as white as slc, but conservative it ain't)...it's an artists/writer's town (seems like half the contributing editors from outside mag are either there or in bozeman/livingston)...yeah, if you're hankering for ballet, classical, and opera you'll be missing stuff, but a lot of the rest is there... i'm as dyed-in-the-wool 'bout the city (nyu grad-school) as the next guy, and i've done my time out west in san fransisco and seattle...attila's elephants couldn't drag me from the gunks, but if i had to live in that hell called the west again, i'd burn in missoula... and to hear my bro talk - who studied geology at um - the rocks program ain't bad either...
_________________________
Shongum ain't Indian, it's Sha-WAN-gunk.
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#8051 - 03/17/03 03:35 AM
Re: going west
[Re: Mike Rawdon]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1914
Loc: Los Angeles
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Well, one thing I would never call LA is "charming." And, yeah, it is Sprawl City. I originally never thought I could like anything about LA. But it's a city that you have to work at. The good stuff is here. But it's hard to find. Vegas seems intent on becoming the new King of Sprawl. I can take it in small doses. A weekend here or there. Just finished the passage in Lynn Hill's book about living and working in Vegas. Sounded pretty grim. But now it's in a real boom phase. And if you love the desert, might be the perfect place. The summer heat, though, is brutal. The most fascinating thing about Vegas I've heard recently is the large Hawaiian population that's growing there every day. Apparently with such a paucity of jobs on the islands, thousands of Hawaiians are moving to Vegas every year. Can you imagine that? Moving from paradise to the desert? I guess when you gotta pay the bills ...
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#8054 - 03/17/03 03:05 PM
Re: going west
[Re: oenophore]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1751
Loc: Flagstaff
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TRIVIAL NOTE: More High School dropouts making over $100,000/year in Vegas than any other area....
Didn't know prostitution paid so well.
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#8055 - 03/17/03 03:13 PM
Re: going west
[Re: Chas]
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gumby
Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
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They're not "prostitutes". They are "exotic dancers" and "professional escorts". Since earnings from those types of professions tend to be cash/'off the books', how exactly (other than a fertile imagination) does somebody come up w/ such statistics? Or course, if 2 Vegas HS dropouts make over $100k, and "any other area" is 1 or 0, then there's your explanation.
_________________________
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"
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#8059 - 03/17/03 09:02 PM
Re: going west
[Re: LesterLeBlanc]
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addict
Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 421
Loc: New Paltz, New York
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I can't speak for Pasadena so I will comment on the areas of LA were I have been (my wife has family there who we visit from time to time and I passed through once on my way to Yosemtie). Sorry for the mispellings
Hollywood and West Hollywood-Getto
Santa Monica-more gap stores per sq ft than anywhere else in the US. All in nice prefab buildings
Venice beach-dirty, crowded, no place to eat-which can be said for everywhere I have been in LA. Kind of like a pre Rudy east village without the artists.
Palos Verdes-If you can afford a 2 million dollar house on the cliffs to whatch whales swim from your patio I supose it would be great. But your still going to commute 2 hrs work.
Malibu-See Palos Verdes
Bellaeare_if you can afford it and like to buy your clothes at escada wonderful enjoy.
The valley-sprawled out suburb, ie. ten lane streets and stip malls. Its fine as long as you like eating at the cheese cake factory and shopping at IKEA.
Now for broader gipes: sprawl, smog, huge highways, celebrity worship, to many fifty year old guys with pony tails and fake tans drving convertibles.
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#8060 - 03/17/03 09:04 PM
Re: going west
[Re: Chas]
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addict
Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 421
Loc: New Paltz, New York
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On that HBO show about the Bunny Ranch, some of the more successful "escorts made $1000 per hr.
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#8063 - 03/17/03 09:57 PM
Re: going west
[Re: GeeVee]
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gumby
Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
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Well, if he was all done in 2.7 minutes, (if my math is correct - $45 vs $1000/hour) then on some level you could call that "successful"  "Uh yes, me and 'Mrs Smith' would like to rent a hotel room for 2.7 minutes, please?"
_________________________
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"
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#8064 - 03/17/03 10:43 PM
Re: going west
[Re: Mike Rawdon]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
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Check the rates. There's usually an hour or two minimum..... (they need some way to make up for the 2.7 crowd!  )
_________________________
- Marc
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#8066 - 03/17/03 11:58 PM
Re: going west
[Re: MarcC]
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addict
Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 421
Loc: New Paltz, New York
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It was 1hr minimum and $1000 any part of an hour there after. I have to say the chicks getting this money were very hot. People did divide time up a husband and wife split a bill as did two brothers. I also found out today the most famous and expensive brothel in Holland is called Yab Yum. Well no I know where that name came from
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#8067 - 03/18/03 12:31 AM
Re: missoula/salt lake/bend
[Re: yorick]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
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all three of the above offer extremely different living standards. Missoula is a tiny town in one of the most desolate places in the world, with a population of ~80,000. It is a very tight job market, with only two real companies that are hiring people-washington industries and the bus logistics company. If you move there after university it would be very hard to find a job because you lack the bro-down network. (unless you're already a rn...) The climbing has some excellent bits, but unfortunately lots of junk. Oh, and when winter comes for real, you is in for a bit of education. salt lake is a sort of boom city. with a couple of million mormons and mexicans and a ton of other folk, its an actual city with actual businesses and a lot of different social circles and employment opportunities. housing is the same price or cheaper for better than missoula, and the climbing is better hands down. the air quality in both of the above can range from total crap to quite nice in the winter, but missoula's is more generally crap. Both city's have good snowboarding terrain, but salt lake areas get more regular snow and have better lifts for the on-area terrain. In terms of music, both places are cultural backwaters (comparing them to nyc here), the difference being that in missoula that indy band is a bunch of friends from town and in salt lake you had to join DV8 to pay the $5 to get in to see the band making its way outta town. bend is a place i am curious about. my snowboarder friends have all done a tour of duty in or around bend, and say its a nice town. Work is apparently tourism based and the town is very expensive for housing. But why not portland? Do you know why its called jackson hole? because it is a hole. i hate the town, its true, but what can you say about the town that in the 2000 census had the highest boy:girl ratio in the 21-35 age group? Driggs is an okay town, but work? hmmm. you might get a job, you might not...
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#8069 - 03/19/03 03:21 PM
Re: going west
[Re: Josh]
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member
Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 127
Loc: Morristown, NJ
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And the Trapps still have 12 foot snow drifts at the base.
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#8070 - 03/19/03 07:11 PM
Re: going west
[Re: Bolt_Skytop]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1914
Loc: Los Angeles
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Bolt: Had I not moved to LA and lived here for 9 years, I would have agreed with everything you wrote. As it is, I still agree with 80 percent of your complaints. However, on closer inspection, LA has far more to offer. Unfortunately, LA is not like New York wherein you can walk for 20 blocks and discover the city block by block. Even just living here for years will not guarantee you find anything worthwhile in LA. You really need to go out and find it ... and it really helps if you have a local to guide you. Just as I found that there are some terrific places to eat and hang out in Vegas (off the strips and away from the casinos) it didn't surprise me that after living in Los Angeles a while that I began to discover great neighborhoods, stores and restaurants. Next time you're in the area, drop me a line. I can help hook you up with great food, things to do and yes, excellent climbing!
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#8071 - 03/20/03 01:52 PM
Re: going west
[Re: LesterLeBlanc]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
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agreed lester - i didn't start enjoying LA until after living there for awhile, and especially after going out with friends who knew where to go. after that i loved it, and some of the climbing is really good. it does suck having to drive through all those suburbs - beautiful places like san bernardino, to get to jtree though. i would move to LA before i move back to NYC.
the climbing in salt lake flat out sucks compared to denver and the front range. the sport climbing is better if that is where you priority is, but the trad climbing is a shadow of eldo, lumpy ridge, south platte, vedauwoo, etc. it is two hours closer to moab though, and closer than that to the san rafael swell. if it didn't have so damn many mormons, i might consider living there for the proximity to the desert, but as it is i'll endure my commute from denver.
denver/boulder is basically ideal. world class trad, bouldering, and alpine on really diverse rock. ok sport, decent aid, and terribly crowded though good ice. quick drive to a lot of places. sort of a cultural backwater, but downright cosmopolitan compared to salt lake. the colorado symphony is really quite good, there are some decent places to hear jazz, and the full complement of touring acts come through. after 2.5 years here i have finally found enough good restaurants to keep me from pining for new york at dinner time, but the good places are not always easy to find. i can't imagine why people live here if they aren't climbers, but its good for me.
_________________________
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.
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#8072 - 03/24/03 07:32 PM
Re: going west
[Re: MarcC]
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journeyman
Registered: 11/06/01
Posts: 98
Loc: Portland, OR
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Hey guys, Thanks for all your input and support. Sorry it took so long for me to get back to everyone. you guys raised a lot of interesting points and things for me to consider, esp Marc and Kathy. Right now I'm temping at these big time law firms, and it isnt really doing anything for me other than a paycheck. I mean, shuffling papers and photocopying all day isnt really the most interesting thing. I do know what I want to do eventually but I am not ready to do that yet. Thats why I want to move out West, to try a new lifestyle and really focus on my climbing and snowboarding. I was going to go out to visit a friend out in Bend, OR where she is a snowboard instructor at Mt. Bachelor, and she was gonna take me out to Smith Rock. however, she's outta there early April and I cant make it out then so I am gonna link up with her in Boulder. the best thing is definitely to take a road trip and check out as many places as I can, getting a feel for the place. This was a problem until yesterday tho because I had no car and nobody to go with, but last night, a friend of mine said he wants to do the same. So we are hitting the road in june, in search of a new place that will welcome us city folk. I think I am done with big cities for now, looking for smaller places, but not tiny. Anyway, I'll keep you guys posted and thanks for all the input, it gave me a lot to reflect upon. Cheers,
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#8073 - 11/08/04 06:29 PM
I did it!
[Re: trad_rock]
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journeyman
Registered: 11/06/01
Posts: 98
Loc: Portland, OR
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Finally got out of NYC and am now living in Bend Oregon. Drove out in about a week and a half ago and I have 2 part time jobs, one up at Mt Bachelor and another at a gear shop in town. Been out climbing at Smith Rocks a bunch already so it has been good. Thanks for all your help, input and support and if anyone is going to be out here in this area, definitely give me a shout, it would be great to climb with some Gunkies out here. Hope all is well out on the East Coast. Cheers, Jason
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#8074 - 11/08/04 06:58 PM
Re: I did it!
[Re: trad_rock]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
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this thread is funny to see. after trash talking SLC so much, now i live here. the trad climbing is a little better than i made it out to be, but still not nearly as good as the front range though it certainly is more convenient. skiing makes a big difference to me - i didn't ski the last time i posted but now i like to ski better than i like to climb so salt lake is as good as it gets.
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