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#9359 - 08/18/03 08:29 PM Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
ChrisinVermont's post about learning to lead got me thinking about the Regular Route on Chapel Pond Slab. (nice work chris, and congrats on the engagement)
Anyone have any beta to share with me?
He mentioned a 30 ft runout on pitch 4, hows the climbing there? is most of it runout? is it really 30ft, or is it more like 90ft? (when i had planned to do the east face of the 3rd flatiron last summer, people warned us about 30-40ft runouts, when in reality it would be more like 60-90ft runouts.)
how is its slabbyness? seems annoying, not quite able to stand up, not quite able to lean in like normal climbing?
5.5, right? sandbagged? how much 5.5?
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#9360 - 08/18/03 08:58 PM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: empicard]
chrisinvermont Offline
member

Registered: 05/08/01
Posts: 184
Well obviously I don't have tons of experience, but I don't think it is sandbagged. I can only climb 5.8 solid, with the occasional 5.9. The runout part at the top of our 4th pitch (we did it differently then the guidebook) was on really easy climbing, you could probably stand up on it as I was kinda in "ape" mode, just dragging my knuckles. The hardest parts are well protected. The last pitch up the black wall was completely soaked since there has been lots of rain, definitely the hardest part. As I mentioned I have a pretty good fear of hieghts and I felt fine on the route. Well worth it, but it can be busy. Others can give you more info I am sure.

Chris

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#9361 - 08/18/03 09:29 PM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: empicard]
scottie_c Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/01/02
Posts: 284
Loc: NY
At the base of the slab, on the far right, there is a nice crack that goes up maybe 20 or so feet. It is ez climbing, and a nice way to start off your slab adventure. Also, nearing the top, I would recommend the cave finish, it is a nice way to finish off the climb.

These two suggestions make the Regular Route a solid 5.6.

As for the rest of the route, it is 5easy and there is NO FIXED PRO.

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#9362 - 08/18/03 09:36 PM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: empicard]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
He mentioned a 30 ft runout on pitch 4, hows the climbing there? is most of it runout? is it really 30ft, or is it more like 90ft?

Admittedly it was a long, long time and many beers and martinis ago.....I remember a 30'-ish run to a mostly psychological, crappy, small RP behind a questionable flake, about a 5.5 friction step, then a 130' runout on 5.0 to the belay.

(when i had planned to do the east face of the 3rd flatiron last summer, people warned us about 30-40ft runouts, when in reality it would be more like 60-90ft runouts.)

On the East Face of the 3rd, there's pro whenever the route gets near it's 5.2 rating. The really huge 100' runouts are on class 4. BTW, the route has been climbed while wearing boxing gloves and roller skates! It has also been climbed (and descended) on mountain bike.
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#9363 - 08/18/03 11:58 PM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: MarcC]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Regular route is the most protectable route on the slab. There may be 30' runouts but it is on easy ground. You can climb the wall near the top (on the right) or opt for a friction finish. Since there is no fixed pro, setting belays id up to you. You should always pay attention to how much rope is left and set a belay when it loks like a good spot, don't try to "just go another few feet" you might end up getting to the end of the rope before you know it. It is a great way to spend an afternoon. Enjoy.
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#9364 - 08/19/03 01:01 AM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: pitfall]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Don't worry about the pro and just go for it. Really good friction, and it's pretty slaby.

p1 you can run a full rope length and belay at a good stance, many variations here.

p2 goes past the second bulge to slanted ramp at the base of the 5.5 finger crack corner.

p3 up and traverse right out (friction crux of route? runout, not that bad) of crack to ledge with trees, not a real good anchor but good stance.

p4 up through bobs knob to ledge.

p5 (optional) some decent climbing must be down climbed. move around corner and up on easy stuff
Cave variation - go up once you gain the ledge on bobs knob.

Decent - downclimb slab on climbers right. if you end after pitch 4 go around to the right to the start of pitch 5 and down climb easy terrain to the pond side. follow trail to a tree with rap slings. just before the tree there was a rope you can hand over hand to get down. quicker if its there, may take a while to find. follow the stream back towards the start of climb.

photo of pitch 2 I'm standing at the belay.

Toby


Attachments
89723-slab.JPG (173 downloads)


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#9365 - 08/19/03 02:33 AM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: empicard]
fallenglass Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/01/03
Posts: 276
Loc: cornwall
i've never climbed the regular route, but i definitely recommend the empress -- it is so cool. don't worry about the pro -- 'cause on most pitches, there is none between belays. just throw your but in the air and keep moving. it's mostly easy 5th class anyway.

you should be careful about climbing past your belay -- the slabs are a little tricky to down-climb if you get off route (probably holds true for the regular route also)

pick a nice dry hot day, your feet will stick like glue and you'll love it!

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#9366 - 08/19/03 12:38 PM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: empicard]
scottie_c Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/01/02
Posts: 284
Loc: NY
Tthe hardest climbing on the slab itself is 5.6. If you do The empress, I highly recommend the 5.6 Greensleeves variation.

I agree that it is a great way to spend some time...
The first climb I did on The Chapel Pond Slab was Regular Route, which took about 4 hours. The second climb was The Empress, which took about an hour (5 200m rope length pitches).

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#9367 - 08/21/03 02:00 AM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: scottie_c]
OffTheEdge Offline
member

Registered: 08/09/03
Posts: 129
Loc: Orono, ME
Not to change the subject... but if you want a nice 5.5 slab climb that's a bit better protected and less crowded.. maybe try the paddle out to Roger's Rock and climb little fingers. It's a super slabby crack and you can spice it up by linking it with little fingers direct on pitch 3 to make it a 5.7. The route has nice exposure, a nice breeze.. and there's usually a boat full of women who are amazingly impressed.....

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#9368 - 08/21/03 03:07 AM Re: Chapel Pond Slab, Regular Route [Re: OffTheEdge]
fallenglass Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/01/03
Posts: 276
Loc: cornwall
yea, i've always wanted to climb at roger's rock - one of these days ...

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