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#9385 - 08/19/03 07:55 PM Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading?
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
Is there such a thing? I'd love to climb some of the stuff at the Trapps (up to about 5.7), but I don't lead - and neither do any of my current partners. I've heard that there's the Overcliff Carriageway, so that one can access some of the routes; however, after reading Swain's guide it looks as though the majority of the routes in my range are 1) more than one pitch and require either a leader or a rappel to even get to the anchor point, or 2) stop in the middle of the wall (see previous point).

Are these climbs only top-ropable with a top belay, then, and not as a sling-shot belay?

Any assistance would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

T
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#9386 - 08/19/03 07:57 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Tai]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242

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#9387 - 08/19/03 08:49 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: strat]
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
Thanks!

I'd looked at that, before; I didn't want to have to rappel to set up anchors, but it looks like I'll get decent at it.

T
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#9388 - 08/20/03 12:19 AM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Tai]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Get the Williams guide if you already don't have it. Start at the begining of the trapps and you will have a pretty good selection of top rope routes with access from above. The brat through P-38 should give you some good options.

Enjoy.

Good luck on the weekend!....go mid week.

Toby

p.s. If you have the money get some cams for setting up the TR's the sooner you got those the easier it will be to ease into trad leading!

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#9389 - 08/20/03 12:17 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading?
Anonymous
Unregistered


go to peter's kill

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#9390 - 08/20/03 01:33 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading?
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
There is no such thing as Peter's Kill. It's a myth . . .
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#9391 - 08/20/03 03:00 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: strat]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
I thought Scary Area was next to Airy Area. How are you going to TR that from Double Chin? I'm much confused.

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#9392 - 08/20/03 05:43 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Tai]
scottie_c Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/01/02
Posts: 284
Loc: NY
I would not suggest top roping double chin anyways

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#9393 - 08/20/03 07:53 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Tai]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
I think you need to look again at the link Strat posted. If you read it thoroughly it indicates many routes that are accessible for top-roping without needing to lead or rappel.

The most popular and easily accessibly TRing areas are: The Brat wall, the Dirty Gerdie pillar, and the Uberfall area.

Since these areas are so accessible and popular, you'll either want to get there VERY early on a weekend or go on a weekday.

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#9394 - 08/25/03 02:41 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading?
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2225
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I've only been at Peter's Kill once. I saw they have rules that you can't use the trees for anchors. Are there enough gear placements at the top for anchors on most of the climbs?

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#9395 - 08/25/03 03:35 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Jannette]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2956
Loc: LI, NY
Quote:

Are there enough gear placements at the top for anchors on most of the climbs?



I've never not done a climb because i was unable to build an anchor. some of the harder to set up TR's are now bolted.

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#9396 - 08/25/03 03:48 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Jannette]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
you can pretty much set up anything. if you have a lot of webbing or some static line i would definitly bring it along since (at least when i was there) some of the best routes didnt have bolts,(not that you needed them but alot of times the other option is to run an anchor back 15 feet)
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#9397 - 08/25/03 05:08 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Jannette]
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
Quote:

I've only been at Peter's Kill once. I saw they have rules that you can't use the trees for anchors. Are there enough gear placements at the top for anchors on most of the climbs?




Almost correct. You're not supposed to anchor off the pitch pines (they're protected), but any other tree is fair game. You do occasionally have to get creative with anchors, though; it helps if you're carrying 3/8" static line and a couple of 20' webbing runners, in addition to the usual cordalette/passive pro/active pro/etc.

T
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#9398 - 08/25/03 05:13 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Tai]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2956
Loc: LI, NY
Quote:

You're not supposed to anchor off the pitch pines (they're protected), but any other tree is fair game



i've never seen that specifically mentioned, just no using trees in general.
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tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#9399 - 08/25/03 07:50 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: empicard]
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
Quote:

Quote:

You're not supposed to anchor off the pitch pines (they're protected), but any other tree is fair game



i've never seen that specifically mentioned, just no using trees in general.




Heard that from a couple of rangers, and also (if I remember correctly) from our own Mike Rawdon. I could, of course, be wrong. *shrug* In which case, it just got a LOT more interesting to build anchors out there.

T
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Fortis est veritas

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#9400 - 09/01/03 07:44 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Tai]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 422
Loc: New Paltz, New York
Just bring a static line or long webbing and you can always find gear. Kiling the trees was never necessary. Most are bolted now anyhow.

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#9401 - 09/01/03 11:21 PM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: empicard]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

i've never seen that specifically mentioned, just no using trees in general.




Good question - I'll have to see where exactly this is posted. It is NOT on the waiver that must be signed annually.

That waiver BTW is a masterpiece of government doublespeak: "The *use* of bolts and pitons are (sic) strictly prohibited" (emphasis mine). Now who do you think installed those stainless anchor bolts if not the state? They say we can't use them?

And this: "Minnewaska State Park...does not approve qualifications or certify instructors in any manner" yet they dictate which CPR course (for example) a guide must take and in at least one instance I am aware of) told a guide that he would not be allowed to work at Peters Kill because his CPR credentials did not meet Minnewaska standards.

(rant OFF)

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#9402 - 09/02/03 01:09 AM Re: Toprope routes at The Trapps - without leading? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
And to add to this entire rigamorole (sp?), I was told by a Ranger at Peter's Kill, that, the use of trees, is NOT, in fact, prohibited, but in the interest of conservation it is strongle advised that trees not be used as anchors.

I have grown fairly intimate with the area this season and have never even thought about using a tree for an anchor. And I have been able to construct all the anchors I've needed with a "standard" gunks rack. No extra mile long static or webbing or anything else.

I was also recently told by a ranger that the bolts that are currently in place have been placed by local guide services so as the PIPC is not liable for the bolts.

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