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#9405 - 08/20/03 05:56 PM First Trad Lead
spasmatron Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/20/03
Posts: 49
Loc: Betwixt yonder and hither
Any suggestions for a good first ever trad lead?
I've just bought a reasonable rack and want to climb about 5.6. Any gear beta would be usefull too.

If anybody want's a good laugh (and isn't offended by profuse bad language) - I'll be up there this weekend.

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#9406 - 08/20/03 06:52 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Disneyland (5.6-) is practically a sport climb, it's got so much fixed gear on it. Protects everywhere, any falls would be short and generally clean, and it's a great climb. I put a first time trad leader on it before, and she did fine.
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#9407 - 08/20/03 07:14 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
Judge11 Offline
old hand

Registered: 03/28/01
Posts: 1152
Quick question...
If you're going to attempt your first trad lead, what is compelling you to start at 5.6?

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#9408 - 08/20/03 07:41 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: Judge11]
scottie_c Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/01/02
Posts: 284
Loc: NY
If you think 5.6 is where you want to start, I would suggest starting lower than that.

Do Bunny (5.4) which is fun and ez. Then Gelsa (5.4), which is spectacular and forces a gear anchor at the end of pitch 2. If all goes well, try Horseman (5.5) which will give you a feel for what a gunks 5.5 is like. If you feel totally solid on this, try Jackie (5.6). If you feel totally solid, then check out the 5.6 post that is still fairly fresh

Have fun, and dont get over your head

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#9409 - 08/20/03 07:50 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
daryl512 Offline

veteran

Registered: 10/07/00
Posts: 1256
Loc: Rochester, NY
For your first lead I'd kick it down a few notches if I were you. Just work on easy climbs so you can concentrate on QUALITY gear placements first. You'd be suprised how much harder a 5.6 feels when you're fumbling with gear and then the wind picks up!

I'd suggest Easy Overhang 5.2 for a first lead. If that goes well give Northern Pillar 5.2 and Three Pines 5.3 a try next.

Daryl
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At this point in my life I should be daryl5.3 not daryl512

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#9410 - 08/20/03 08:46 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: scottie_c]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
FWIW: Unless there's been some serious grade inflation going on lately, Jackie was 5.5 last time I looked.

As for how hard a route to start off on ...

It depends on the climber. If this is someone who has followed on harder routes and boulders V5, then I don't think starting out on a 5.6 (especially Disneyland) is that dangerous or even that ambitious.

However, if the person in question hasn't followed 5.6 or harder yet and doesn't boulder anything in the V range, then it would be prudent to consider picking something easier than 5.6 for a first lead.

Bottom line: What can it hurt to try something VERY easy just to start off with? If the leader is feeling fine after a 5.3 or 5.4, then they can always (as Emeril says) kick it up a notch.


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#9411 - 08/20/03 08:50 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: nerdom]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Quote:

Disneyland (5.6-) is practically a sport climb, it's got so much fixed gear on it. Protects everywhere, any falls would be short and generally clean, and it's a great climb. I put a first time trad leader on it before, and she did fine.




Disneyland is a good, gentle 5.6 that shouldn't give new leaders much trouble (as long as they don't bump their head at the mantle.

But, Les, I wonder if it's a good recommendation for a brand new leader to use old Gunks fixed gear? Aren't they supposed to be learning to place their own gear? And if they get so desperate that they need to clip a quick pin, maybe they should be leading something easier ... no?

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#9412 - 08/20/03 08:53 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Spas-

Any gear beta would be usefull too.

Gear beta for climbs 5.6 and easier? Mmmmmm ... no.

At this point in your climbing career, you really want to be learning how to spot good placements and take advantage of them.

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#9413 - 08/21/03 01:08 AM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Best gear beta is to put in more than you think you will need.
Second pitch of Gelsa might be a bit much for a first time leader. Its been known to sketch out a few 5.6 leaders, although it is certainly appropriately graded.

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#9414 - 08/21/03 01:26 AM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: chip]
OffTheEdge Offline
member

Registered: 08/09/03
Posts: 129
Loc: Orono, ME
My first gunks lead was No Picnic (5.4+). One nice thing about this climb is that there is no rope drage at all.. and the top is all jug bashing. Most other easy routes involve traversing and/or clipping long... plus it's a single pitch with an easy top anchor.... just my thoughts...

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