my first lead was 3 pines -- i agree with the others who say to pick a real easy route. your first lead isn't going to be about making the moves, you'll focus on placing really good pro. so pick a 'g' rated route with great footing and think of it as a laboratory rather than a project. three pines fits the bill. there's also a short 5.5/5.6 variation at the top if you absolutely have to do something harder. have fun!

Rhododendron is another 5.6- that you could do that is very protectable. Also, there is Frog's Head with a 5.5+ or 5.6- rating.

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But, Les, I wonder if it's a good recommendation for a brand new leader to use old Gunks fixed gear? Aren't they supposed to be learning to place their own gear? And if they get so desperate that they need to clip a quick pin, maybe they should be leading something easier ... no?

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LL, sure they should be placing their own gear, and there are plenty of opportunities to do so, but the fixed gear is solid stuff on Disneyland, and the reason I suggested it was that it provides nice back up for a first-time Gunks leader who may be sketching out a bit. Takes a lot of pressure off if you can just clip the fixed angle iron, THEN work on getting your own piece in above it. I guess I should have clarified that in the beginning, so your point is well taken. The climbing above the mantle belay is maybe 5.5; the "harder" climbing is on P1, which is really well-protected. And I agree with you on the issue of leading 5.6 for a first-timer. If he's a strong climber with enough seconding experience, and he specifically asked for 5.6, then I don't see any reason to assume that he can't lead 5.6, especially a G-rated 5.6.

(BTW, he asked for beta, so here's some -- there's a bomber #3 Camalot placement protecting the crux mantle move; also, skip that shitty mantle belay and continue up into the corner, where you can build a solid, semi-hanging belay at the first piton you encounter; also, bring at least one 4-foot runner for the pro at the traverse under the roof, to avoid rope drag).

Lots of the same comments here, so I’m just another me too – though I agree with Lester about experience counting. Anyway, I started as a new climber on 5.5s, and did them. But, looking back on it I have to admit that I might have been better served doing easier routes at first.

I'd still fall on 'em.

Did you test the pins with a hammer? Other than installing the pins yourself or testing them with a hammer, I don't know any other way to be sure they are good.

I don't test the steering linkage in a car every time I drive it; I don't test the tires; I don't test a lot of shit, but that doesn't mean I don't trust it. I've yarded on the pitons in question, and they feel solid enough, certainly for bodyweight (and I have taken a short fall on an old ass pin on another route; it held). I'm not advocating running it out above any Gunks pins, and I specifically noted that for the first-timer who was seeking the info, that it just gave some security to place a piece of gear above it. Whether I would choose to fall on the pins or not is immaterial to the question that was asked anyway. It was just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions . . .

I don't test the steering linkage in a car every time I drive it; I don't test the tires;..

Sure you do, in the first few feet before you do anything that really matters.

Do Bunny, which is 5.4, and if you're feeling good pull the roof and you'll get your 5.6.

Jackie sucks. I hate that route. Don't do that one.