Shout Box

Who's Online
3 registered (rustyrabbit, slevin, 1 invisible), 4 Guests and 6 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 2 of 11 < 1 2 3 4 ... 10 11 >
Topic Options
#9415 - 08/21/03 03:01 AM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
fallenglass Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/01/03
Posts: 276
Loc: cornwall
my first lead was 3 pines -- i agree with the others who say to pick a real easy route. your first lead isn't going to be about making the moves, you'll focus on placing really good pro. so pick a 'g' rated route with great footing and think of it as a laboratory rather than a project. three pines fits the bill. there's also a short 5.5/5.6 variation at the top if you absolutely have to do something harder. have fun!

Top
#9416 - 08/21/03 01:33 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
Rhododendron is another 5.6- that you could do that is very protectable. Also, there is Frog's Head with a 5.5+ or 5.6- rating.

Top
#9417 - 08/21/03 01:34 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Quote:

But, Les, I wonder if it's a good recommendation for a brand new leader to use old Gunks fixed gear? Aren't they supposed to be learning to place their own gear? And if they get so desperate that they need to clip a quick pin, maybe they should be leading something easier ... no?




LL, sure they should be placing their own gear, and there are plenty of opportunities to do so, but the fixed gear is solid stuff on Disneyland, and the reason I suggested it was that it provides nice back up for a first-time Gunks leader who may be sketching out a bit. Takes a lot of pressure off if you can just clip the fixed angle iron, THEN work on getting your own piece in above it. I guess I should have clarified that in the beginning, so your point is well taken. The climbing above the mantle belay is maybe 5.5; the "harder" climbing is on P1, which is really well-protected. And I agree with you on the issue of leading 5.6 for a first-timer. If he's a strong climber with enough seconding experience, and he specifically asked for 5.6, then I don't see any reason to assume that he can't lead 5.6, especially a G-rated 5.6.

(BTW, he asked for beta, so here's some -- there's a bomber #3 Camalot placement protecting the crux mantle move; also, skip that shitty mantle belay and continue up into the corner, where you can build a solid, semi-hanging belay at the first piton you encounter; also, bring at least one 4-foot runner for the pro at the traverse under the roof, to avoid rope drag).
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#9418 - 08/21/03 01:48 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: Judge11]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
Lots of the same comments here, so I’m just another me too – though I agree with Lester about experience counting. Anyway, I started as a new climber on 5.5s, and did them. But, looking back on it I have to admit that I might have been better served doing easier routes at first.

Top
#9419 - 08/21/03 03:11 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: nerdom]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

... but the fixed gear is solid stuff on Disneyland...




When were the pins replaced? In 2000 (my last time in the Gunks) they were the same ones that I had clipped when I first did the route - in 1974.
_________________________
- Marc

Top
#9420 - 08/21/03 03:13 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: MarcC]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
I'd still fall on 'em.
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#9421 - 08/21/03 03:16 PM Thread Drift, Thread Drift [Re: nerdom]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
Did you test the pins with a hammer? Other than installing the pins yourself or testing them with a hammer, I don't know any other way to be sure they are good.

Top
#9422 - 08/21/03 03:29 PM Re: Thread Drift, Thread Drift [Re: strat]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
I don't test the steering linkage in a car every time I drive it; I don't test the tires; I don't test a lot of shit, but that doesn't mean I don't trust it. I've yarded on the pitons in question, and they feel solid enough, certainly for bodyweight (and I have taken a short fall on an old ass pin on another route; it held). I'm not advocating running it out above any Gunks pins, and I specifically noted that for the first-timer who was seeking the info, that it just gave some security to place a piece of gear above it. Whether I would choose to fall on the pins or not is immaterial to the question that was asked anyway. It was just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions . . .
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#9423 - 08/21/03 03:37 PM Re: Thread Drift, Thread Drift [Re: nerdom]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
I don't test the steering linkage in a car every time I drive it; I don't test the tires;..

Sure you do, in the first few feet before you do anything that really matters.

Top
#9424 - 08/21/03 05:33 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: nerdom]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Do Bunny, which is 5.4, and if you're feeling good pull the roof and you'll get your 5.6.

Jackie sucks. I hate that route. Don't do that one.

Top
Page 2 of 11 < 1 2 3 4 ... 10 11 >


Moderator:  Mike Rawdon, Steven Cherry 
Sponsored