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#9425 - 08/21/03 06:11 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
I cant believe no one else caught this on the trollRadar.
First post? seems suspect. but what do I know. I've tasted troll bait, I know how good it tastes.
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#9426 - 08/21/03 06:22 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: dalguard]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Do you mean the original post or this troll:

Quote:

Jackie sucks. I hate that route. Don't do that one.





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#9427 - 08/21/03 06:53 PM Re: First Trad Lead
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
Quote:

Do you mean the original post or this troll:

Quote:

Jackie sucks. I hate that route. Don't do that one.









Sorry. I meant the original post might be a troll. not so obvious what youre talking about in the new format.
althought i do sense a bit of sarcasm in the jackie comment. but i dont know. he might really hate it.
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tOOthless

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#9428 - 08/21/03 07:13 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: empicard]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
except that he is a she!
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#9429 - 08/21/03 07:18 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: nerdom]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
whoops. sorry tradgirl.
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tOOthless

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#9430 - 08/21/03 08:01 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: empicard]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
And I really hate it. No really. I've vowed never to lead that thing again because I can feel just as miserable on something much harder but feel better about feeling that miserable. And I don't think the gear is that great either. And that tree is coming down some day soon. So there.

Now why would the original post be a troll? If it is, it's not a very interesting one. Plenty of people have led 5.6 for their first lead. OK, my first lead was 5.2 and I fell off of it, but my second lead was 5.6. And it wasn't Jackie.

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#9431 - 08/22/03 12:05 AM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: dalguard]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1914
Loc: Los Angeles
It's been a while for me, but I remember Jackie as being well-protected with or without the tree.

I like the route because it has an instructional component to it ... the crux is often considered awkward, but by bringing more technique to bear, the awkwardness all but disappears.

And it has a great finish.

Again ... FWIW ... Jackie is not 5.6.

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#9432 - 08/22/03 11:20 AM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
I think the first time I tried jackie, I started up a few feet and decided to traverse way right for some reason (I think it was one of my first times in the gunks and I had no guidebook or clue) and ended up on classic. Edited to add: Do you think my variation could be called Jackass?


Edited by pitfall (08/22/03 01:18 PM)
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#9433 - 08/22/03 12:30 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: pitfall]
scottie_c Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/01/02
Posts: 284
Loc: NY
Quote:

And I really hate it. No really. I've vowed never to lead that thing again because I can feel just as miserable on something much harder but feel better about feeling that miserable. And I don't think the gear is that great either. And that tree is coming down some day soon. So there.




Whoa. We have a strong oppinion here

I agree with Lester 100%, it's all about grabbing the jugs, and walking those feet up. After doing a bunch of gunks 5.6s, Jackie does seem a tad mild... Ursula, Loose Goose, Double Chin, and Horseman all seem harder, which are all 5.5s.

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#9434 - 08/22/03 04:40 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: scottie_c]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
It's not the roof I hate. It's the alcove and the moves getting up to it.

And yeah, the gear's good, but not for a 5.5G if you know what I mean. It's tinkery. Again, I'm not talking about the roof.

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