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#9435 - 08/22/03 05:18 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: dalguard]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
Respectfully, dalguard, you are full of shit! The moves before the alcove are very easy to protect, and true it is a bit polished, but it is straight forward. The crux IMO is the "alcove" iand that is VERY easily protected with a grey camalot and if that's not enough you can slot a picture perfect stopper in as well. Different strokes for different folks, I guess.

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#9436 - 08/22/03 05:41 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: strat]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
As I'm giving you my opinion, I'm going to insist on being allowed to have it. I'm not asking anyone to share it but I don't plan to change it because yours differs.

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#9437 - 08/22/03 05:53 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: empicard]
spasmatron Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/20/03
Posts: 49
Loc: Betwixt yonder and hither
Empicard: No I'm not a troll! Why would I be a troll?
Everyone else (and, grudgingly Empicard), thanks for your advice - Rhododendron sounds good and also someone else recommended Minty?

Are there many similar grade routes with bolted anchor points? I'm hppy enough placing gear but belaying my second on self made anchors could be a bit hairy. All advice greatly appreciated.

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#9438 - 08/22/03 06:00 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
Ok, I'll be the first to say it.....If you have ANY lack of confidence about your ability to set bombproof anchors, then, maybe some instruction is a VERY wise idea.

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#9439 - 08/22/03 06:01 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
Uh Oh

I'm spitting this hook out just in case!


Edited by Mark Heyman (08/22/03 06:05 PM)

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#9440 - 08/22/03 06:02 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Empicard: No I'm not a troll! Why would I be a troll?



Oh jeeze.....Once again, from the Jargon File:

troll
1. v.,n. [From the Usenet group alt.folklore.urban] To utter a posting on Usenet designed to attract predictable responses or flames; or, the post itself. Derives from the phrase “trolling for newbies” which in turn comes from mainstream “trolling”, a style of fishing in which one trails bait through a likely spot hoping for a bite. The well-constructed troll is a post that induces lots of newbies and flamers to make themselves look even more clueless than they already do, while subtly conveying to the more savvy and experienced that it is in fact a deliberate troll. If you don't fall for the joke, you get to be in on it. See also YHBT.

2. n. An individual who chronically trolls in sense 1; regularly posts specious arguments, flames or personal attacks to a newsgroup, discussion list, or in email for no other purpose than to annoy someone or disrupt a discussion. Trolls are recognizable by the fact that they have no real interest in learning about the topic at hand - they simply want to utter flame bait. Like the ugly creatures they are named after, they exhibit no redeeming characteristics, and as such, they are recognized as a lower form of life on the net, as in, “Oh, ignore him, he's just a troll.” Compare kook.
_________________________
- Marc

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#9441 - 08/22/03 06:07 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

I'm hppy enough placing gear but belaying my second on self made anchors could be a bit hairy. All advice greatly appreciated.




Um, then you probably aren't quite ready to lead trad yet. Placing trad protection and building a gear anchor are merely different aspects of the same skill set.
_________________________
- Marc

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#9442 - 08/22/03 06:14 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: MarcC]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Oh, please. Who wasn't nervous about the first few anchors they built? It took me ages before I felt comfortable committing to a hanging belay I'd built - and that was several falls on to gear later.

Lots of Gunks routes have trees you can use. Sling the tree with some slack and build a gear anchor to hang off of. This will help build your confidence.

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#9443 - 08/22/03 06:17 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: dalguard]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
<<Oh, please. Who wasn't nervous about the first few anchors they built? It took me ages before I felt comfortable committing to a hanging belay I'd built - and that was several falls on to gear later.>>

I was nervous about climbing on my first few leads, I was NOT, however, nervous about the quality of my anchors and their ability to hold big falls. Would not have left the ground otherwise, its this little desire to live that plagued me. Wazzammatter, not-so-very tradgirl?, is your friend visiting?

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#9444 - 08/22/03 06:29 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: dalguard]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Oh, please. Who wasn't nervous about the first few anchors they built?



Well, me, for one. It was drilled into my head by the people that taught me that if you aren't 100% sure that your belay anchor is bomb-proof, you have no business leading a climb and being responsible for safeguarding two lives.

I spent a lot of time building anchors at ground level with a very experienced leader and having them critiqued before I had to do them for real. In those early days it may have taken a while for me to build a gear anchor sometimes, but never did I feel nervous about the anchor once it was constructed.
_________________________
- Marc

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