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#9455 - 08/22/03 08:06 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: strat]
stimpy Offline
Site Supporter

Registered: 04/08/02
Posts: 243
Major flame warning

>>>Respectfully, dalguard, you are full of shit! The moves before the alcove are very easy to protect, and true it is a bit polished, but it is straight forward. The crux IMO is the "alcove" iand that is VERY easily protected with a grey camalot and if that's not enough you can slot a picture perfect stopper in as well. Different strokes for different folks, I guess.<<<<

Great, this coming from someone who hates Easy Keyhole, calls it a POS, let me guess – because they got spanked by a 5.2 on their first lead. If anyone is full of shit……..

Shut the f up strathole.

Anyway, what the F are you people talking about. Oh, you’re not ready to lead Blah balahblah. Bullsheit. We are talking about Jackie here right. What f-in gear anchor? Try slinging the f-in tree when you get up there or clip some f-in bolt monstrosity. And that goes for half the climbs in the gunks.

Dollguard, Don’t listen to the a-holes, they need to get a life. As for Strathole it is obviously that time of month. If you haven’t noticed the accident ratio of the most frequent pos(t)ers on this site is like a hundred times higher than the general climbing population. Just do what you think is right for you. I would gladly belay and follow you on your first lead. You gotta start somewhere.

Cheers not jeers
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#9456 - 08/22/03 08:10 PM Re: First Trad Lead
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
My friend Arnold says 5.5's are for sissies

Yeah, but he also doesn't repeatedly fall off of 5.6's either.


My first trad lead was a .7
I survived, but I don't think my underwear did.

My next one was a 5.2
edited to add - after spending a day w/ a guide mock-leading.


Edited by MurphysLaw (08/22/03 08:35 PM)
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#9457 - 08/22/03 10:13 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: stimpy]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Quote:

We are talking about Jackie here right. What ... gear anchor? Try slinging the ... tree when you get up there or clip some ... bolt ....




Turns out, Jackie is one route where anchor-building actully does come in handy.

If you make your own, you leave the RAP anchors for people who are rapping, and for people coming up Classic. Which is only considerate.

It's also a good idea to make your own, so that your second doesn't face a huge leftward swing after they un-clip the last piton and attempt the roof.

But then, if you're too scared to belay up your second anyway, I guess their safety doesn't matter.

These are non-'climbing' issues I'd advise a beginning leader to think about, rather than getting tunnel vision for bolts.

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#9458 - 08/22/03 10:28 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: stimpy]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
stimpy, you are an IDIOT!

The very behavior which you chastise me for, of stating an opinion about a climb, (Easy Keyhole) you support dalguard on? Notice way back in this thread, her statement somewhere along the lines of Don't Do Jackie, I hate Jackie????

Why doesn't THAT cause the wrath of your assinine behavior?

While my posts in this thread have attitude in them directed towards dalguard's intense responses, at least they offer information by offering a contrary opinion to Tradgirl's about the gear on the climb, your post does nothing but slander.

So, F You, IDIOT!

I don't miss the irony in this post

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#9459 - 08/22/03 11:29 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: Julie]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1915
Loc: Los Angeles
Julie:

Excellent point about not moving right to the tree on Classic. However ...

It's also a good idea to make your own, so that your second doesn't face a huge leftward swing after they un-clip the last piton and attempt the roof.


I would imagine that IF you did move to the tree (let's say it's a weekday and you're feeling lazy) you would CERTAINLY place a piece above the final roof so your second wouldn't have to fear a major swing ... right?

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#9460 - 08/22/03 11:36 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: strat]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1915
Loc: Los Angeles
Strat:

You should really save your breath. Anonymous flamers aren't worth the electrons. Especially those that believe that leading without having solid anchors skills is perfectly fine.

And although stimpy attempts to make a jibe at the accident rate at gunks.com denizens, he seems to have missed the thread where people listed their mishaps. Except for the Ahhhh-Kersplat Club ... there were amazingly few climbing related accidents.

Dalguard:

It's one thing to be nervous or anxious. You have a good point there. A healthy dose of fear keeps us alive. However, it's another thing to be anything less than competently skilled in anchor-building when leading.

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#9461 - 08/23/03 11:36 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
Anonymous
Unregistered


At the risk of returning to the question at hand, Dennis and Belly Roll would also be good candidates for a first lead. Betty is another popular first lead; Tipsy Trees and Black Fly would be fine too. Of the climbs people have mentioned already, I'm not thrilled with No Picnic, since the gear is a little trickier and not always over your head. My first lead was Casa E, which was great for me, but the poster might want a little more challenge--pitch 2 is nice but the start is pretty trivial. How about Easy V? Forget the rating. It will be exciting!

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#9462 - 08/24/03 03:04 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5962
Loc: 212 land
Quote:

Strat:

You should really save your breath. Anonymous flamers aren't worth the electrons. Especially those that believe that leading without having solid anchors skills is perfectly fine.

And although stimpy attempts to make a jibe at the accident rate at gunks.com denizens, he seems to have missed the thread where people listed their mishaps. Except for the Ahhhh-Kersplat Club ... there were amazingly few climbing related accidents.

Dalguard:

It's one thing to be nervous or anxious. You have a good point there. A healthy dose of fear keeps us alive. However, it's another thing to be anything less than competently skilled in anchor-building when leading.


Nice quench!
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#9463 - 08/25/03 06:06 PM Re: First Trad Lead *DELETED* [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
stimpy Offline
Site Supporter

Registered: 04/08/02
Posts: 243
Post deleted by stimpy
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#9464 - 08/25/03 06:17 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: stimpy]
irisharehere Offline
Site Supporter

Registered: 12/06/01
Posts: 1658
Loc: Danbury CT
"ok, Hi-E is a bad example since there are no bolt anchors at the top, I think)"

Umm, yeah there are Stimpy. If you want people to listen to your opinions, get your facts straight first!!!!

Iris
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