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#9485 - 08/27/03 03:47 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: d-elvis]
Anonymous
Unregistered


If there are cam grooves on HighE I expect that's my fault

Dennis

I said "grooves" not fissures

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#9486 - 08/27/03 04:36 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: d-elvis]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1915
Loc: Los Angeles
d-

There are cam grooves where you might want to put a piece next time you're up there.

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#9487 - 08/27/03 05:00 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

There are cam grooves where you might want to put a piece...




Uh, folks, long before there were cams, hundreds of angle pitons were hammered into that same spot for decades. Those are piton grooves!
_________________________
- Marc

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#9488 - 08/27/03 05:21 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Quote:

In the meanwhile - everyone please feel free to continue posting helpful route suggestions or, even better, giving each other a right royal slagging .




Huh?? I'm confused.

From Webster's Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913) [web1913]:

Slag \Slag\, v. i. & t. [imp. & p. p. {Slagged}; p. pr. & vb. n.
{Slagging}.] (Metal.)
To form, or form into, a slag; to agglomerate when heated
below the fusion point.


So maybe slagging wasn't the word you were looking for? Perhaps, in Strat and Dalguard's case, you meant to use "shagging"?

At the risk of returning to the topic at hand (gasp!) I would suggest Casa Emilio or Easy Overhang for a first lead. Casa E has the nice bonus option of traversing (at 5.3-5.4 or so) over to Casablanca to put a toprope atop a killer roof, and other topropes on the large block below. Also, the first pitch is 5.0, so if your gear sucks you probably won't die. Bring somebody who can critique placements.

(Tree on casablanca is starting to look increasingly unhealthy, and somebody "removed" some of its quicklinks recently. Back up with gear if possible.)

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#9489 - 08/27/03 06:25 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: MarcC]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Those are piton grooves!

Marc

That was exactly my point in my obviously not sarcastic enough post.

Cheers

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#9490 - 08/27/03 07:58 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: pedestrian]
spasmatron Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/20/03
Posts: 49
Loc: Betwixt yonder and hither
Quote:


[From Webster's Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913) [web1913]:

Slag \Slag\, v. i. & t. [imp. & p. p. {Slagged}; p. pr. & vb. n.
{Slagging}.] (Metal.)
To form, or form into, a slag; to agglomerate when heated
below the fusion point.





From Rogers Profanisaurus, complete, unabridged,

slag n. 1. Woman of little virtue; slapper. 2. Waste material from a mine, slag heap. 3. (s-laaaaaag) Term of abuse applied liberally to male criminals in The Sweeney~(ing) general verbal abuse

Also, thanks for your advice. I like the sound of the 5.0, will definately look that one up.
However, it looks like the venue this weekend has changed to Vermont. Smugglers Notch? Bolton? Any more suggestions for first routes?

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#9491 - 08/27/03 08:16 PM Re: First Trad Lead
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Those are piton grooves!
That was exactly my point in my obviously not sarcastic enough post.




I know, but with this being gunks.com, where satirical humor goes over many heads, something like "cam grooves" can take on a horrific life of its own! If we're not careful we'll see posts where someone will write about being sketched at the lack of pro on a g-rated 5.4 until they found the cam grooves! After that, people will start to argue about how to tell if a particular set of cam grooves are for an Alien or a Camalot. Then there will be talk of enhancing cam grooves and whether the Preserve should initiate a cam groove creation project on popular climbs.
See what you started!!!
_________________________
- Marc

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#9492 - 08/27/03 08:46 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Also, thanks for your advice. I like the sound of the 5.0, will definately look that one up.

Hey, spazzer. You'll love Casa Emilio - if you can find it!
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.

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#9493 - 08/27/03 08:49 PM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: pedestrian]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
From Webster's Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913) [web1913]

Spazzer already filled you in on the correct answer to this, but I have to ask why you would try to find a Brit colloquialism in Webster's?

And you forgot to mention to our Anglo buddy the three-day bushwhack that some people end up on whilst looking for Case Emilio.
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.

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#9494 - 08/28/03 02:17 AM Re: First Trad Lead [Re: spasmatron]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
slag n. 1. Woman of little virtue; slapper

And tonight's contenders... just walked up to the store on the corner and stopped to watch (aghast) as two women in a red Honda carefully manouvered the car dead center of a two-car spot. The passenger opened the door and the driver announces "I bet he's goin' to say somethin'" to which I expressed my surprise and disappointment that they had just chosen to park as they did. I was immediately subject to a torrent of abuse, of which "Why don't you mind your own business" was the general theme, although it went considerably further than that. But you know what? They weren't just selfish. They were also fat. And ugly. And really, really stoopid too.
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.

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