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#9555 - 08/22/03 12:50 PM Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin?
Anonymous
Unregistered


5.8 is my lead limit. I backed off of my first lead ever on Birdland. I followed the climb last year without any problems and it looks straight forward. For me the crux moves are around the right facing flake thing between the second and third pin. I backed up and equalized the second pin then climbed up followed by 10 minutes of fiddling with gear in the little crack at the crux. There is a broken off pin in this crack that kept me from getting anything solid in there. I finally got two mediocre small nuts in a couple inches higher. By this time I was too tired to do the crux move.

Does anyone protect at the crux? If so, how?

Thanks for the gear beta...seems silly Birdland looks straightforward from the ground.

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#9556 - 08/22/03 01:01 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin?
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
The placement there is not so good for nuts but you can get pretty good Aliens in there. Sometimes I use Aliens or sometimes Metolius. I just led it using (I think) a green Alien and a red Alien one on top of the other. The red Alien was right above the green one. It will take two pieces if you arrange them right. I would not say these pieces are "bomber" but they are good enough to give a little confidence... that's why I use two of them... Make sure you set up properly for the crux move - it's short - and then it should be no problem if you are solid. You should be able to clip the next pin right after you do that move.
The bottom move at the first pin is also kind of tricky for some people and if you don't do it just right. I wouldn't want to fall off just above there but it's really easy now that I have it sussed!
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#9557 - 08/22/03 01:38 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin?
jj221 Offline
member

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 127
Loc: Morristown, NJ
I've had luck with small nuts at the broken pin- it must have been a good time breaking that pin. I've gone as far as attaching slings to the nut and aidding off of it on days where I'm whipped and don't have enough gas to pull through. Good luck.

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#9558 - 08/22/03 01:40 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin? [Re: phlan]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I tried an alien just above the broken pin. The only way I could get it in was by placing the cams downward from above. This left the stem in an upward sort of orientation. That goes against everything I know about placing cams. I tried a TCU lower but with a downward pull, only two cams stay in the crack. Did you have this same problem with getting the cams oriented for a downward pull? I know you said they weren't bomber, is this what you meant?

I got the nuts in the thin crack a few inches above the crack where the broken pin is. You're right, the crack that kind of takes a cam definitely won't take nuts...at least from my experience.

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#9559 - 08/22/03 02:36 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin?
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 767
Loc: livin' on the edge
Normally, I don't give gear beta unless you beat it out of me with a #4 camelot (right?). But the lovely way a yellow green offset alien sits in the lower crack has to be experienced to be appreciated. Your second won't even want to clean it cuz it looks so sweet. Then a medium small nut (BD#5 or 6) in the higher crack (Kaching!) and you're good to go. Stem to a small edge to the right for the gear stance.
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#9560 - 08/22/03 02:56 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin? [Re: browndog2]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Hey Browndog, thanks. That was exactly the gear beta that I was looking for. I'll see if I can get a yellow green offset alien. I don't mind spending the money on a special piece of gear if I know it's going to work...so I'm glad I didn't have to beat it out of you with a #4 Camalot...that would require a special gear purchase too, since I rack WC Friends.

Thanks again!

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#9561 - 08/22/03 03:47 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin? [Re: browndog2]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
yes, browndiggetydoggie, that makes total sense that piece would fit like a glove on Michael Jackson. a yellow and green hybrid alien is a great piece to own (and not just for that climb!) now I guess I gotta get me one!!!!
I've never seen it necessary to put a nut in above that but it might be an nice idea as an extra confidence builder. Birdland is SUCH a wonderful climb.
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#9562 - 08/22/03 04:37 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin? [Re: phlan]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
We added offset Aliens to our rack this Christmas and it's surprising how often they go in. Not as often as regular Aliens, mind you, but often enough to carry them.

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#9563 - 08/22/03 07:43 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin?
scottie_c Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/01/02
Posts: 284
Loc: NY
the alien offsets are not what I would call specialty gear... they are more common than you would think... those ballnutz are another story...

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#9564 - 08/22/03 08:14 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin?
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
If it makes you feel any better, Birdland is a hard 5.8. And it used to be rated 5.9. So there ya go.

There are two cruxes -- at the bottom and the one at the flake you mentioned. One good nut at the second crux is all you really need to protect the move.

It's really not that hard to protect ... so here comes my gentle admonishment ... you should try to hone your leading skills a bit more the next time you're out on a lead at your current max level.

That second Birdland crux is not particularly hard to climb or protect. It's also possible to downclimb to a rest after working the pro or sussing the moves. As you climb harder routes in the Gunks you're going to be doing a lot more downclimbing. Cause you'll be doing the typical Gunks roof dance. Up to look for gear placements, down to rest, up to try some gear, down to rest, up to get the piece in bomber, down to rest, up to suss out the move, down to rest ... and finally ... up to do or fly. So in addition to focusing on your gear skills, I'd recommend also getting into some endurance work outs at your local gym or boulders. You'll need much longer hang time if you progress into the 5.9 range and harder.

If I've come across as some old grumpy ass climbing Nazi, sorry about that.

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