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#9575 - 10/13/03 06:51 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin?
Anonymous
Unregistered


Thanks for the great tips everyone. I got back on Birdland this past week and finished the lead. Your gear suggestions helped. I climbed to the crux, put in two pieces, equalized them, downclimbed to milk the rest (thanks Lester), then made the move. The first time I tried it, I had some metolius TCUs but I didn't have the yellow one, I didn't own any Aliens, and my nuts are DMM Walnuts. I have since purchased a few Aliens and I borrowed a yellow TCU. I found that walnuts don't fit as well as other nuts in that crack and there are other cams that work better in that crack than my small friends (I don't have the new zeros). This different selection of gear made a big difference. It also helped that the day prior, I boosted my confidence with my first onsite 5.9 lead on Higher Stannard (I know it's only 5.9-). Anyway, thanks for the gear pointers, it made a huge difference!

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#9576 - 10/14/03 10:08 PM Re: Birdland-pro between 2nd and 3rd pin?
cranken Offline
member

Registered: 10/27/01
Posts: 122
Loc: the south, the north, the east...
WARNING ROUTE AND GEAR BETA FOLLOWS

Did I miss something or has no one mentioned the 2nd pitch, esp. the 5.8+ overhang move into it seemed 10 feet of 5.7 overhanging moves. I'm glad that I only seconded that pitch and I'm glad that there is a fixed stopper when I have the nads to try the 2nd pitch.
_________________________
"hrumph... I've got rocks at home to clean." - Marge Simpson

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