Shout Box

Who's Online
1 registered (donald perry), 11 Guests and 2 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >
Topic Options
#959 - 10/19/00 03:31 AM route recommendations for southern climbing
merlin Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/31/99
Posts: 1352
hey all
i'm headed on a southern climbing tour this weekend
gonna hit lost wall, ga
foster falls, tn
and looking glass, nc
anyone got any routes that we should do...we've got a few leaders....looking for anything up to about 5.8...maybe 5.9....
thanks
later


Top
#960 - 10/19/00 11:58 AM Re: route recommendations for southern climbing [Re: merlin]
Anonymous
Unregistered


At Foster falls, ther is a good 9 right to the right of the easy slab. But go to the tennasee wall instead of foster falls. IT is better, beacause it isnt' sport climbing.

alec

Top
#961 - 10/19/00 03:21 PM Re: route recommendations for southern climbing [Re: merlin]
PeteG Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/30/00
Posts: 300
Loc: Saranac Lake, NY
Merlin:

At LGR:
Although the very best route is on the Nose, this time of the year you will most likely want to go to South Face where it's a bit warmer.

  • Rat's Ass 5.8 Don't let the name turn you off. It's great!

  • Gemini Crack 5.8-

  • Unfinished Concerto 5.9 (P1 only)

  • Second Coming 5.7

  • First Return 5.8


On the Nose:
  • Sundial Crack 5.8 The very best IMHO in this grade!

  • The Nose 5.8 Nearly as good as Sundial. I've done only P1 due to lack of time.



Pete



Top
#962 - 10/19/00 03:23 PM LGR - P.S. [Re: PeteG]
PeteG Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/30/00
Posts: 300
Loc: Saranac Lake, NY
Forgot to mention: Take two ropes for rappels on South Face. It's probably also a good idea to carry a second rope if doing the Nose routes.

Have fun!!!!

Pete


Top
#963 - 10/19/00 03:36 PM Re: LGR - P.S. [Re: PeteG]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
Pete stole all my recommendations at Looking Glass; I second all of those climbs. I would stop at Moore's Wall on the way down. Tim Toula in Rock N Road describes climbing there at better than hitting a grand slam in the bottom of the ninth with a full count. Excellent trad climbing on solid rock. There is a lot of white large crystal quartz faces and most of the climbs have crystals mixed in. The climbing is very Gunks-like with lots of roofs and broken cracks. Don't miss Zoo View. It is an excellent 5.7+ with many, many, many roofs, cracks, and some exciting face climbing. It is in a nice state park too with great views. Bobby


Top
#964 - 10/19/00 04:10 PM Re: LGR - P.S. [Re: BobbyS]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
If you get a chance to hit it, despite its reputation as a sport area, the Red has lots of nice trad too. Probably more than sport.

-Arms
_________________________
Arms

Top
#965 - 10/19/00 07:32 PM Re: LGR - P.S. [Re: BobbyS]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Zoo View, yes. Might be better than any 5.7 at the Gunks. An utterly insane traverse (clip the bolt and think it's over, ha ha! the madness has just begun!) to steep jug hauling, followed by a Gunks-like tiered roof.

Also check out Shiprock. Has a route, something like "Riding the Crest of a Wave". The High E of North Carolina, not quite as much exposure but even wilder moves. Sort of High E crossed with Flight of the Gumbies (NRG).


Top
#966 - 10/19/00 07:36 PM Re: route recommendations for southern climbing
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Second the T-Wall recommmendation (though Foster Falls is a beautiful place). Passages is the famous 5.8 but I thought Prerequisite for Excellence was even better, if possible. There's a picture of it in the new (2001) Climbing weekly calendar. Ratings comparable to Gunks.

Also Sunset Park. Liberty Crack - find out if you're really a 5.9 leader. At the Gunks it would be called a bit of a sandbag. But a safe crux with perfect 5.8 handjamming above.




Top
#967 - 10/19/00 09:04 PM Re: route recommendations for southern climbing [Re: Steven Cherry]
merlin Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/31/99
Posts: 1352
thanks guys
appreciate the info

t-wall is closed this weekend for turkey hunting....this wasnt a trip i planned and the sched is tight so all were gonna get is the three areas i mentioned in the first post....i appreciate all the suggestions though
take it easy
happy climbing this weekend
peace


Top
#968 - 10/20/00 12:26 PM Re: Moore's Wall [Re: BobbyS]
PeteG Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/30/00
Posts: 300
Loc: Saranac Lake, NY
BobbyS,

May I steal another one :-)

At Moore's Wall, I loved Air Show, a solid 5.8. My second commented that it should be rated 5.9, but I thought 5.8 was right on, although I wouldn't argue if a plus sign was appended to the rating.

I was at Moore's Wall Columbus Day weekend and it was so cold that we decided to not stay there and went to Stone Mountain for the rest of the day.

To come to think of it, if you're in that area, and the weather is on the cool side, Stone Mountain is a good substitute as the cliffs face generally South. Be forewarned, however, that at SM there are long runouts. SM is not for the faint at heart. It's nearly all slab climbing with bolts 30-40' apart. My heart was beating double-time just before clipping the first bolt on Mercury's Lead (5.9-). The situation was repeated before the second bolt was clipped.

Recommendations for SM:

The Great Arch (5.5) - has hand holds!

U Slot (5.7) - Use this to get to the Tree Ledge where most of other recommended routes start.

Yardarm (5.8-)

Mercury's Lead (5.9-)

Fantastic (5.9) -- First pitch is more like normal routes, complete with own gear and hand holds. Even has a crack! Rest of the route (P2, P3) is slabby just like the rest of Stone Mountain.

Pete




Top
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >


Moderator:  andrew, Mike Rawdon 
Sponsored