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#9581 - 08/26/03 01:06 AM Absurdland
TrailDog Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/29/03
Posts: 7
Loc: CT
I'm a 5.8 leader, and just cracked into 9's by leading Three Doves this past weekend. It was definitely a three star experience. Thin face climbing is my thing, but I still have difficulty leading hard roofs, overhangs. Yesterday, I walked past Absurdland after leading Wonderland, and thought it looked like a great route. Can anyone share some beta on this route? It looked fairly straightforward, but I want to make sure I'm not getting in over my head. Thanks.

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#9582 - 08/26/03 01:17 AM Re: Absurdland [Re: TrailDog]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Crux is down low. You have to place gear from a couple of less than perfect stances to avoid grondfall, but not that hard. From your post, it sounds like your type of climbing.

RR

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#9583 - 08/26/03 01:22 AM Re: Absurdland [Re: RangerRob]
TrailDog Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/29/03
Posts: 7
Loc: CT
Cool! Thanks.

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#9584 - 08/26/03 04:30 AM Re: Absurdland [Re: TrailDog]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
yup , thin crack climb, the crux is the actual placing of gear mid crux rather than from good stances. its a little heady down low, but its a nice nine
_________________________
Just Call me Mr. Enthusiasm

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#9585 - 08/26/03 03:43 PM Re: Absurdland [Re: TrailDog]
edk Offline
addict

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 441
Loc: allentown, NJ
Sounds like we were on similar paths this weekend.

I can't recall what Absurland goes at, but I think its 5.8 or 8+

As was stated here already the crux is low, but there are a few other moves that feel similar a dozen feet higher up.

It's a GREAT climb! I protected the opening move with a #2 bd cam then it was nuts all the way, nearly emptuied my mid size BD stoppers and dipped into the DMM walnuts again mid range sizes.

You can almost protect it like this:

1. grab the biner with your BD stoppers.
2. pick one
3. hold it up to the crack
4. move it up and down eying up the best spot for it.
5. let it fall in.

I actually experianced my nuts just gettting stuck in the crack and I moved them up and down (but thats a personal thing... )

Felt very similar to Thin Slabs (following the crack) to me. Its easeier to protect I think, but the stances from which you are doing that require a cool head. Past the opening move it overhung just enough to make a fall pretty benign if you were diligent in you gear placements.

Of course I climbed it this past weekend and if weather can ever be considered a factor then Sunday was an absolutely stellar day to tick it off.

Actually Of the 4 leads I did that day it was the most pleasent because although it was tough off the ground it was protectable and everything else I climbed it seems I was 20' up before there was anything to be had (P1 three doves, P2 Annie Oh!, P1 triangle)

I think if you are solid in the 8s and have Kens crack and Thin Slabs under your belt then you will love Absurdland!

ed

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#9586 - 08/29/03 12:42 AM Re: Absurdland [Re: RangerRob]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Rob describes it perfectly.

If you're also any good at stemming, the first pitch of The Spring would be a good next choice (thin face holds in an open book). And then you can toprope Manly, very good 5.10 face climbing.

Apoplexy might be a good choice too.

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#9587 - 09/08/03 12:24 AM Re: Absurdland [Re: Steven Cherry]
TrailDog Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/29/03
Posts: 7
Loc: CT
Thanks to everyone for the beta! I led the crack Saturday morning and it was a blast. The stances weren't as bad as I thought they would be and the pro was bomber as you all indicated.

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#9588 - 09/08/03 03:41 PM Re: Absurdland [Re: TrailDog]
ryanclan Offline
addict

Registered: 01/09/00
Posts: 578
Loc: NoCal
I avoided reading this thread because I wanted to lead Absurdland this weekend. I went up yesterday and my partner and I nearly had the entire Arrow wall to ourselves! We kept rapping down and doing more climbs. We rapped over Three Doves and I thought I would do it...then spooked myself. So we headed to Absurdland. It was incredible! I loved leading that bottom part; it's just like Thin Slabs!!!!

But, please, don't take away the 9- part of it....I'm counting this as one of my 9s.

Kat

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#9589 - 09/08/03 03:49 PM Re: Absurdland [Re: ryanclan]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Sorry Kat....5.8 in my book. But hey, Disneypoint is only a 10a in my book and Exit Stage left is like a 10c, so My perspective is not to be trusted.

RR

Bushwhacker

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#9590 - 09/08/03 04:14 PM Re: Absurdland [Re: RangerRob]
edk Offline
addict

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 441
Loc: allentown, NJ
Well I'll take whatever they throw at it grade wise.

I do agree with RR though that it is 8 to 8+ thats what it felt like to me, not as hard as some 9s I've ticked, and not as hard as some 8s -

But its all good! thats a wonderful climb, I think it got a 9- cause of the stances, but if you are climbing on a dry day and find a good body postion the stance feel pretty good.

Speaking of numbers tell me Yellow Ridge if 7- !! the first 15 (including gettign to the off width) was some sh*t!

ed

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