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#9603 - 08/28/03 12:22 PM Re: Yosemite Intro
Anonymous
Unregistered


the mantel move is a huge jug beta: good feet on your left. 1st pitch on nutcracker 5.8 way is absolutely spectacular.

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#9604 - 09/01/03 03:34 PM Re: Yosemite Intro
ryanclan Offline
addict

Registered: 01/09/00
Posts: 578
Loc: NoCal
I just got back from Yosemite/Tuolumne about 2 weeks ago. You'll find that your leading level will drop significantly out in Yosemite if you don't know how to jam. I would suggest that you do After Six before you do After Seven. There's a very, very thin face move on After Seven that can be scary if you're not used to the terrain.

Also, look at the 5 open books in the Yosemite Falls area. There's some stellar stuff there. Central Pillar of Frenzy is great (but 5.10 at the beginning...right?). Nutcracker is very, very stellar! If you can get on it when it's not baking, you'll love it. At Swan Slab, try Grant's Crack and another 9 way to the right of it in a corner (I forget the name). Look at the Church Bowl climbs, too.

But, definitely, take it slow and lead a 5.6-5.7 first off so you can get into it. Jam Crack is a great 5.7 lead, but it's polished at the bottom. P2 is pretty spectacular, but backing in the sun. AND, if you feel up to it, go lead Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday. It's solid 5.10 crack climbing with a bitch of a run-out on P1 to the first bolt.

(BTW, Chaz was out in the Sierras for a couple weeks and may not be back yet.)

Have fun! And, drive up to Tuolumne if you get a chance. And then head to Mono Lake and the Mobil station for some gourmet dinner!!!

Kat


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#9605 - 09/01/03 04:28 PM Re: Yosemite Intro [Re: ryanclan]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Also, look at the 5 open books in the Yosemite Falls area. There's some stellar stuff there.

Beware of the fire ants that inhabit some of the belay trees!
Central Pillar of Frenzy is great (but 5.10 at the beginning...right?).
Kinda wierd 5.9 first pitch, some low 5.10 jamming later on, but mostly a lot of 5.9. Rap off after the 5th pitch. Get a way early start if you don't want to wait on line.

AND, if you feel up to it, go lead Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday. It's solid 5.10 crack climbing with a bitch of a run-out on P1 to the first bolt.


It's also easy to do just the first 3 pitches of Serenity if you don't want the full program. P1 hint: artful mid-size tri-cams in the pin scars - you can get at least 2 pretty good placements before the bolt.

Also in the Serenity area is Maxine's Wall - bolt protected face/friction without the huge run-outs common on GPA or the stuff over at the bottom of the Royal Arches area. It's rated 10a but always seemed easier than Never Never Land.
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#9606 - 09/01/03 07:09 PM Re: Yosemite Intro [Re: ryanclan]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Quote:

I would suggest that you do After Six before you do After Seven. There's a very, very thin face move on After Seven that can be scary if you're not used to the terrain.





That's a fairly accurate description, but anyone skilled in face climbing in the Gunks at the 5.8 grade probably won't have too much trouble with it. The crux is all face climbing and if you pay attention to your feet, it's not too hard (5.8- or Gunks 7+ ). The gear is thin, but solid (you can stack 2-3 pieces) and is around feet level when making the hardest move. Immediately after the crux there is more gear to be had if you look around. I wouldn't recommend After Seven for people breaking into the grade, but if you're solid on 5.8s in the Gunks, this is a very doable pitch and quite wonderful.

Basically, if you're capable of doing Nutcracker, After Seven is a good warm-up.


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#9607 - 09/01/03 07:54 PM Re: Yosemite Intro [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
Anonymous
Unregistered


after seven is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay easier than a gunks 5.8! It has a gunks feel because of all the face climbing, the rock is kinda slick so watch out but there really isnt much jamming technique needed. The crux gear is by your feet but its solid and you can place two small tcu's and maybe even a nut if you wanna....

The first pitch of After Six has a really polished section of laybacking and awkward jamming......THere is also a wasps nest right above the crux (as of Mid July-Early AUg.) which adds some spice.....The rest of the route is mellow but great climbing anyways.....but the two climbs are similar in grades and either one is a good choice.

The manure pile is mostly in the shade after 4pm or so......head there late day if you dont wanna melt but be warned the routes are waaaaaaaaay popular and could be backed up like high E on a beautiful holiday weekend so plan according..
lata,
biehn

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#9608 - 09/02/03 12:42 PM Re: Yosemite Intro [Re: CrackBoy]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Crakboy,

sorry for not getting back with you earlier, was out in he Sierras having a pretty good time (will submit pics of stuff like the Incrediable Hulk later- very NICE).

I can make it for one day this month since I already have a full calander of climbing until Nov (Sept if you want, which would be Sun Sept 15, if you don't mind someone who is trashed, I'll be replacing bolts on the Harding Route of Conness the day before). Always like showing people around the Valley.

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#9609 - 09/02/03 05:34 PM Re: Yosemite Intro [Re: Chas]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
Do you mean the 14th? the 15th is a monday. ill have to let get back to you on that since my gf always hates climbing on sundays since then she is too wasted for work the next day..me , i just dont work

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Just Call me Mr. Enthusiasm

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#9610 - 09/09/03 12:05 AM Re: Yosemite Intro
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I was surprised how easily I got acceptably solid on my jamming while there. Hopefully you will two. Weather should be good, with bigger temp swings through the day than in the east. A nice BIG day is Snake Dike on Half Dome if you are in good hiking shape to do it all in a day. Royal Arches is cool and we were able to do it on passive pro and some big Tri-cams only. Leave lots of daylight to find your way down. A little light to clip on the back of your harness is a great idea out there. I finished in the dark three times, including a pitch black last pitch of Nutcracker and a real scary decent. That's when I added a little LED light permanently to the harness.
Committment is a lot like a gunks climb, a nice 9.

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