So the plan is to head to Yosemite Valley in a couple weeks, Never been there so I don't know what to expect besides enough make to make me want to soil myself.

Now i know it will probably be too hot and most sane yosemite climbers head to toulome, but being that i have never climbed out there(read, don't know how well i can jam) and i would rather not start up some runout slab route.

So any suggestions on where to start with some easy to find moderate stuff that will be in the shade/cooler that would be a good intro to the valley. I am not asking too much am I I was thinking about after six with the after 7 (or was it 8) start


Hey Chas would you be willing to take an easy day show me and my gf around some moderates?

I don't think it will be too hot at all... and even if, we were out there last July 4th and while it was hot we managed (althought we did finally duck out to Tuolumne). Get one of Supertopo's guides:
SuperTopo
The usual routine for a first visit is to pull the car over before you crash into someone trying to look at all the cliffs and stand alongside you car stare drop jawed at what surrounds you
After Six is a great intro (easy to find, short walk, easy off...) Single pitches at Swan Slab are also good, Sunnyside Bench (Jamcrack area) is also great. If you want a long easy climb Royal Arches is a blast (getting down is another story) Have a great time.

yea i saw the supertopos guide, i already have the yosemite free climbs book and the toulome book.

are all the areas you mentioned super popular?
do they have a bunch of moderates, i am hopeing to cram a bunch of short stuff in to get some technique back in me

You have the right idea, just go to manure pile and crack off all the crap there. Also the el cap base routes (pine line, etc.) are fun and you can tell people you cimbed (on) el cap.

Things like bishop's terrace might be a good idea too. IT's like doing a bunch of moderate pitches, but one on top of another instead of next to another. Be sure to bring big gear.

In two weeks the temps should be fine and most of the tourist will be gone. You'll have a great time!

Chaz is right. Manure Buttress is a great intro. After Six is nice, but I would recommend doing After Seven (the 5.8- P1 variation of After Six) and then heading over to Nutcracker.

Jamcrack P1 is polished as hell, but it will get you to what looks like much better climbing on P2 and it allows you to TR the two great 5.10s beneath.

Don't forget to boulder!!!

After Six is nice, but I would recommend doing After Seven (the 5.8- P1 variation of After Six) and then heading over to Nutcracker

so just do the one pitch and rap off?

should i bring anything for my rack that otherwise normally wouldnt from a gunks rack?

"so just do the one pitch and rap off?"
If you are on a mad dash cragging spree... but getting to the top for another view of the valley isn't a bad idea either You can be up it in 2-4 hours depending on your level (I think it took us three days ) If the harder start seems good, rap off and top out on Nutcracker.

I suggested rapping off of the first pitch (of either After Six or After Seven) because ... Nutcracker is really the route to do because the pitches are more consistent in grade and quality. After the opening pitches of After Six/Seven, the climbing eases off to two very mild 5.6 cruxes on the upper pitches with lots of scarmbling and 5.4 in between (unless you get off route or it's really really hot). Don't get me wrong, it's a great route. But my thinking is ... do you really want to hump it down that gulley TWO times in a day?

That's why I'd say hit the After Seven variation (sweet, beautiful 5.8- crack line with a terrific little thin face crux) rap off (two ropes required) and then do Nutcracker to get to the top of the buttress.

Chaz ... just how long did it take us? I guess if I hadn't whined and complained the whole time we could have done it much faster.

Oh Hell!

I've hit Poo-Bah level.

I'm doomed.

Not too sure what you carry at the gunks but you'll find that the cracks start 1.5'' wide and finish 1.5" wide, your probably gonna want some doubles in cams. A small piece of gear (purple metolius or small brass ofset) is helpful when protecting the mantel on Nutcracker.

If your doing any aid climbing I would highly suggest getting some HB offsets, they are killer!

have fun,

jb