So the plan is to head to Yosemite Valley in a couple weeks, Never been there so I don't know what to expect besides enough make to make me want to soil myself.

Now i know it will probably be too hot and most sane yosemite climbers head to toulome, but being that i have never climbed out there(read, don't know how well i can jam) and i would rather not start up some runout slab route.

So any suggestions on where to start with some easy to find moderate stuff that will be in the shade/cooler that would be a good intro to the valley. I am not asking too much am I I was thinking about after six with the after 7 (or was it 8) start


Hey Chas would you be willing to take an easy day show me and my gf around some moderates?

I don't think it will be too hot at all... and even if, we were out there last July 4th and while it was hot we managed (althought we did finally duck out to Tuolumne). Get one of Supertopo's guides:
SuperTopo
The usual routine for a first visit is to pull the car over before you crash into someone trying to look at all the cliffs and stand alongside you car stare drop jawed at what surrounds you
After Six is a great intro (easy to find, short walk, easy off...) Single pitches at Swan Slab are also good, Sunnyside Bench (Jamcrack area) is also great. If you want a long easy climb Royal Arches is a blast (getting down is another story) Have a great time.

yea i saw the supertopos guide, i already have the yosemite free climbs book and the toulome book.

are all the areas you mentioned super popular?
do they have a bunch of moderates, i am hopeing to cram a bunch of short stuff in to get some technique back in me

You have the right idea, just go to manure pile and crack off all the crap there. Also the el cap base routes (pine line, etc.) are fun and you can tell people you cimbed (on) el cap.

Things like bishop's terrace might be a good idea too. IT's like doing a bunch of moderate pitches, but one on top of another instead of next to another. Be sure to bring big gear.

In two weeks the temps should be fine and most of the tourist will be gone. You'll have a great time!

Chaz is right. Manure Buttress is a great intro. After Six is nice, but I would recommend doing After Seven (the 5.8- P1 variation of After Six) and then heading over to Nutcracker.

Jamcrack P1 is polished as hell, but it will get you to what looks like much better climbing on P2 and it allows you to TR the two great 5.10s beneath.

Don't forget to boulder!!!

After Six is nice, but I would recommend doing After Seven (the 5.8- P1 variation of After Six) and then heading over to Nutcracker

so just do the one pitch and rap off?

should i bring anything for my rack that otherwise normally wouldnt from a gunks rack?

"so just do the one pitch and rap off?"
If you are on a mad dash cragging spree... but getting to the top for another view of the valley isn't a bad idea either You can be up it in 2-4 hours depending on your level (I think it took us three days ) If the harder start seems good, rap off and top out on Nutcracker.

I suggested rapping off of the first pitch (of either After Six or After Seven) because ... Nutcracker is really the route to do because the pitches are more consistent in grade and quality. After the opening pitches of After Six/Seven, the climbing eases off to two very mild 5.6 cruxes on the upper pitches with lots of scarmbling and 5.4 in between (unless you get off route or it's really really hot). Don't get me wrong, it's a great route. But my thinking is ... do you really want to hump it down that gulley TWO times in a day?

That's why I'd say hit the After Seven variation (sweet, beautiful 5.8- crack line with a terrific little thin face crux) rap off (two ropes required) and then do Nutcracker to get to the top of the buttress.

Chaz ... just how long did it take us? I guess if I hadn't whined and complained the whole time we could have done it much faster.

Oh Hell!

I've hit Poo-Bah level.

I'm doomed.

Not too sure what you carry at the gunks but you'll find that the cracks start 1.5'' wide and finish 1.5" wide, your probably gonna want some doubles in cams. A small piece of gear (purple metolius or small brass ofset) is helpful when protecting the mantel on Nutcracker.

If your doing any aid climbing I would highly suggest getting some HB offsets, they are killer!

have fun,

jb

the mantel move is a huge jug beta: good feet on your left. 1st pitch on nutcracker 5.8 way is absolutely spectacular.

I just got back from Yosemite/Tuolumne about 2 weeks ago. You'll find that your leading level will drop significantly out in Yosemite if you don't know how to jam. I would suggest that you do After Six before you do After Seven. There's a very, very thin face move on After Seven that can be scary if you're not used to the terrain.

Also, look at the 5 open books in the Yosemite Falls area. There's some stellar stuff there. Central Pillar of Frenzy is great (but 5.10 at the beginning...right?). Nutcracker is very, very stellar! If you can get on it when it's not baking, you'll love it. At Swan Slab, try Grant's Crack and another 9 way to the right of it in a corner (I forget the name). Look at the Church Bowl climbs, too.

But, definitely, take it slow and lead a 5.6-5.7 first off so you can get into it. Jam Crack is a great 5.7 lead, but it's polished at the bottom. P2 is pretty spectacular, but backing in the sun. AND, if you feel up to it, go lead Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday. It's solid 5.10 crack climbing with a bitch of a run-out on P1 to the first bolt.

(BTW, Chaz was out in the Sierras for a couple weeks and may not be back yet.)

Have fun! And, drive up to Tuolumne if you get a chance. And then head to Mono Lake and the Mobil station for some gourmet dinner!!!

Kat

Also, look at the 5 open books in the Yosemite Falls area. There's some stellar stuff there.

Beware of the fire ants that inhabit some of the belay trees!
Central Pillar of Frenzy is great (but 5.10 at the beginning...right?).
Kinda wierd 5.9 first pitch, some low 5.10 jamming later on, but mostly a lot of 5.9. Rap off after the 5th pitch. Get a way early start if you don't want to wait on line.

AND, if you feel up to it, go lead Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday. It's solid 5.10 crack climbing with a bitch of a run-out on P1 to the first bolt.


It's also easy to do just the first 3 pitches of Serenity if you don't want the full program. P1 hint: artful mid-size tri-cams in the pin scars - you can get at least 2 pretty good placements before the bolt.

Also in the Serenity area is Maxine's Wall - bolt protected face/friction without the huge run-outs common on GPA or the stuff over at the bottom of the Royal Arches area. It's rated 10a but always seemed easier than Never Never Land.

Quote:

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I would suggest that you do After Six before you do After Seven. There's a very, very thin face move on After Seven that can be scary if you're not used to the terrain.

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That's a fairly accurate description, but anyone skilled in face climbing in the Gunks at the 5.8 grade probably won't have too much trouble with it. The crux is all face climbing and if you pay attention to your feet, it's not too hard (5.8- or Gunks 7+ ). The gear is thin, but solid (you can stack 2-3 pieces) and is around feet level when making the hardest move. Immediately after the crux there is more gear to be had if you look around. I wouldn't recommend After Seven for people breaking into the grade, but if you're solid on 5.8s in the Gunks, this is a very doable pitch and quite wonderful.

Basically, if you're capable of doing Nutcracker, After Seven is a good warm-up.

after seven is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay easier than a gunks 5.8! It has a gunks feel because of all the face climbing, the rock is kinda slick so watch out but there really isnt much jamming technique needed. The crux gear is by your feet but its solid and you can place two small tcu's and maybe even a nut if you wanna....

The first pitch of After Six has a really polished section of laybacking and awkward jamming......THere is also a wasps nest right above the crux (as of Mid July-Early AUg.) which adds some spice.....The rest of the route is mellow but great climbing anyways.....but the two climbs are similar in grades and either one is a good choice.

The manure pile is mostly in the shade after 4pm or so......head there late day if you dont wanna melt but be warned the routes are waaaaaaaaay popular and could be backed up like high E on a beautiful holiday weekend so plan according..
lata,
biehn

Crakboy,

sorry for not getting back with you earlier, was out in he Sierras having a pretty good time (will submit pics of stuff like the Incrediable Hulk later- very NICE).

I can make it for one day this month since I already have a full calander of climbing until Nov (Sept if you want, which would be Sun Sept 15, if you don't mind someone who is trashed, I'll be replacing bolts on the Harding Route of Conness the day before). Always like showing people around the Valley.

Do you mean the 14th? the 15th is a monday. ill have to let get back to you on that since my gf always hates climbing on sundays since then she is too wasted for work the next day..me , i just dont work

I was surprised how easily I got acceptably solid on my jamming while there. Hopefully you will two. Weather should be good, with bigger temp swings through the day than in the east. A nice BIG day is Snake Dike on Half Dome if you are in good hiking shape to do it all in a day. Royal Arches is cool and we were able to do it on passive pro and some big Tri-cams only. Leave lots of daylight to find your way down. A little light to clip on the back of your harness is a great idea out there. I finished in the dark three times, including a pitch black last pitch of Nutcracker and a real scary decent. That's when I added a little LED light permanently to the harness.
Committment is a lot like a gunks climb, a nice 9.