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I was never quite sure why the fixed anchor sprouted on Broken Sling.

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Spontaneous generation - just like fruit flies on a banana, of course.

IME most folks only do the first pitch, then they TR, then they rap or lower off the anchor.


That's just wrong. I disagree with RG about stuff like some of the first pitch climbing at the Mac Wall (the Williams guide indicates that one or two of those routes don't even have second ptiches), but TRing P1 of Broken Sling? Come on!

Back in my day, I don't remember a rap anchor there. The initial bouldery crux is one thing, but it's the dicey, brilliant traverse that the route is all about.

I'm not sure what Lester and I disagree about on the Mac Wall. I have proposed, both here and directly to the Preserve Anchor committee, that certain routes be designated as one-pitch routes, and there are some obvious choices on the Mac Wall. There are also some multipitch routes that have been turned into one-pitch routes by rap anchors; perhaps that is where we disagree. I think these routes should be restored to multipitch status by eliminating the rap anchors.

Originally, all the Mac Wall routes went at least as far as the Three Pines GT Ledge. It was customary to climb to that ledge, unrope, and solo down Three Pines. After rap anchors went in on the truly one-pitch routes, Dick chose not to mention the unremarkable climbing up to the GT ledge.

As for Broken Sling, as Lester says, there never used to be a rap anchor at the end of the first pitch, so the anchor installed there is in violation of the Preserve's 1987 regulations on no new fixed anchors, and is not one of the legacy anchors that climbers are entitled to maintain. This anchor should be removed and should stay removed. Apparently, it seems to be removing itself.

RG:

I don't think we disagree that much on the Mac Wall topic. And I think our differences are more philosphical than practical. My view is that the string of great 5.10s to the right of MF (Try Again to Tough Shift) have classic first pitches and nothing too recommendable after that. I think 2-3 rap anchors are reasonable and adequate for this area. I also think that while more people should invest the time and effort in doing both pitches of MF, it's not a bad thing to have a rap anchor at the top of P1. Birdie Party, Interstice, Mother's Day Party and MF all share the same belay. So many people climb P1 of these routes (and top-rope them) that it makes sense (IMO) to have a dedicated rap anchor that allows people to move off the belay and out of the way of others. (This anchor should not be used for top-roping and belaying on P2s.) I can see your point-of-view that having a rap anchor there merely encourages/allows climbers to clog up the area by just leading and top-roping P1s, but I'm more of the mind to allow people to hit these P1s, rap and move on. I also think there should be a rap anchor at the top of Higher Stannard's P1. Basically, I'm for rap anchors at the top of P1s in areas that have a high concentration of popular climbs. However, I also think that there are very few areas in the Gunks that warrant these types of anchors. I also think that rap anchors at the top of the cliffs should be fairly limited.

as far as MF, they should remove the anchors from where they are and move them up like 20-25 feet once you pull the second pitch roof, it is much to it that would make it one of the best single pitches in the trapps

With the hopes of beating the labor day circus and dealing with the anchor before it became a problem I cut what remained of it off this weekend. Hope that doesn't offend anyone, but it was extraneous to begin with.

On another note, I did a new (for me) variation of the 2nd pitch through the flaring/offwidth roof crack. However, after pulling through and traversing left a little ways, instead of continuing left almost to join Disneyland as Swain and Williams suggest, I looped back right through the next roof and this seemed MUCH harder (than the .9+ that variation is normally rated at). Anyone know what the story with that is?

upside down pitons = no no