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#977 - 10/23/00 02:37 PM Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff
Anonymous
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Moby Grape (5.8) on Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park in New Hampshire is a must do. Eight or nine some odd pitches of mostly 5.8 climbing on the stickiest granite I ever been on. The rock is solid the whole way up with everything thrown in. Splitter cracks, face, layback flakes and even a chimney are all encountered. Great exposure on every pitch with super comfortable belay ledges.
Easily my favorite climb of the year.


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#978 - 10/23/00 04:49 PM Re: Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff
Anonymous
Unregistered


There you go spoiling Cannon's reputation! We don't want it getting too crowded. You're supposed to tell everyone that it's too loose and dangerous to climb there. Don't believe Jed! There is rockfall every hour. You'll be lucky to make it out alive!!


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#979 - 10/25/00 05:31 AM Re: Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff
tokyo bill Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/24/00
Posts: 793
Loc: Tokyo
My recollection of Moby Grape is more like eleven or twelve pitches, but gotta second the recommendation - awesome route... uh, hold it... make that: terrible route, absolute death trap - stay away!

(Cool walk-off too - right past the concrete and cable installation that holds together the "old man" of the mountain. "Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain...")


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#980 - 10/25/00 12:12 PM Re: Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff [Re: tokyo bill]
ktclimb Offline
addict

Registered: 05/15/00
Posts: 691
Loc: Adirondacks
what about whitney Gliman ridge? I am doing that tomorrow, a little nervous about it, but I have heard good things about that climb too.


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#981 - 10/25/00 12:35 PM Re: Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff [Re: ktclimb]
hartmann Offline
member

Registered: 11/20/99
Posts: 161
Loc: Northfield, VT
Hi KT,
This climb has some spectacular exposure. Route finding is tricky. I accidentally did the 5.8+ variation on the second pitch and the 5.9 variation on the last pitch. The third pitch is the famous pipe pitch. There are a couple tough very exposed moves above the pipe. The approach is probably more treacherous than the climb. I took about a 10 foot fall when a boulder went out from under my feet going up the boulder field on the approach. Have fun.
Paul



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#982 - 10/25/00 01:23 PM Re: Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff [Re: ktclimb]
Anonymous
Unregistered


ktclimb:

I did Whitney Gilman last year and was very satisfied. I generally agree with what Hartmann wrote -- it's a great climb with good exposure, belay stances that are generally comfortable, and fun (challenging) route finding. It got a little tricky for me near the top, though, and I think I ended up leading a harder variation. But that made it even more fun!

Don't forget to look behind yourself as you climb -- the view should be beautiful this time of year.

What is it specifically that you're nervous about?



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#983 - 10/25/00 01:33 PM Re: Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff
Anonymous
Unregistered


Katie,

Pardon me while I turn green with envy as I think of you doing Whitney G. Are you leading? I am sure you will have a wonderful time. Both Whitney G and Moby Grape are on my "to do" list. :)

Climb safe and have fun,

Dave A


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#984 - 10/25/00 01:43 PM Re: Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff
ktclimb Offline
addict

Registered: 05/15/00
Posts: 691
Loc: Adirondacks
thanks all :) I am a bit nervous because I will be trading off leads, and I have only just recently broken into the .7s on lead. The hardest I've done has been the first two pitches of REcomense at Cathedral, and V3, Classic, and Limelight at the gunks. But I am going with an experienced 5.10b leader, who has done it like three times before, so it should go fine. And I have wanted to do this route for a while now. I will absolutely wear my helmet!


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#985 - 10/25/00 04:47 PM Re: Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff [Re: ktclimb]
Anonymous
Unregistered


The Grape is 8 pitches. Every pitch is basically 5.6 climbing with a 2 move 5.8 crux. Whitney G is 5 pitches and is very nice. Don't be nervous about it, the climbing isn't that sustained. I think only 2 pitches are rated 5.7. It's in a great position, make sure you look around and enjoy the exposure! The approach is a talus field which isn't what it's made out to be either.
Have fun!
Ray


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#986 - 10/27/00 11:02 AM Re:Whitney Gilman
ktclimb Offline
addict

Registered: 05/15/00
Posts: 691
Loc: Adirondacks
It was awesome!!!! went up wednesday nite, and got up early thursday, beautiful day up there!! Whitney Gilman was awesome!!! I led the whole thing, and it was just a fun climb, beautiful views, just wow!!! I am so glad I got up there to do that--now I know why everyone raves about that climb :)))


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