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#9848 - 09/17/03 01:21 PM The Sting

Does the route start from on top of the small boulder, or from the ground? Initially, I played around with starting from the ground, but quickly gave up and started from the boulder. I would think that the moves off the ground may be a bit harder than 11+.

Amazing route either way, I just wanted to know if I had really done the route or not. I was also kind of surprised that Swain calls it PG. I had plenty of good gear. Oh well, whatever....

#9849 - 09/17/03 01:39 PM Re: The Sting
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
It starts off of the boulder, I think that off the ground is something like a V6 direct start. The gear is very good, but there is still decent fall potential. Its not like there is an unbroken crack with gear everywhere, but there is enough where you need it, and what you do get is very good.

#9850 - 09/18/03 12:04 AM Re: The Sting
LesterLeBlanc Offline

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
What Dave said. Not gear everywhere ... but there's a good piece to be had whenever its crucial ... which falls under the definition of PG.

Personally (I think Dave and I disagree on this) I dispense with protecting the opening move. It's much easier, and in my opinion safer, to have your belayer spot you and boulder the opening move.

I tried the direct start years ago ... it's hard but doable ... I think it's a tad harder than V6 ... but what do I know?

#9851 - 09/18/03 02:29 AM Re: The Sting [Re: LesterLeBlanc]

Cool. Thanks for the information, fellas. I didn't protect the first move either. It seemed like having a piece there would have only complicated the matter, plus it's a totally safe landing. Later



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