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#9901 - 09/22/03 03:12 PM Badfinger?
Anonymous
Unregistered


Does anyone have beta on this climb? What kind of gear? This is not a popular route, and is omitted from the William's Select quide, but it looks cool. Is it good?

Thanks.

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#9902 - 09/22/03 03:46 PM Re: Badfinger?
Anonymous
Unregistered


small gear nuts, maybe rp's in the corner should oppose and medium cams for the roof.

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#9903 - 09/22/03 03:56 PM Re: Badfinger?
Dan0930 Offline
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Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 630
Loc: Connecticut
Good route... I little dirty to start. the route takes a spread of gear from small stoppers to mid size cams. Though nothing bigger than maybe a red camalot is needed. purple or green camalot protects the crux. Sword of domacles variaiton is kinda sketchy and loose.

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#9904 - 09/23/03 12:08 AM Re: Badfinger?
Timbo Online   content
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Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 694
Loc: Delaware
Dana and I just did this 2 weeks ago. It's a pretty good route. Definitely G with multiple types of gear as others have said.

I would use double ropes on this one. Dana did not and had to unclip some gear to prevent more serious rope drag. The problem with one rope is that slings long enough to prevent rope drag (once over the roof) on the traverse gear will cause a fall into the corner. Ouch.

One of the easier 9 roofs. Definitely better than Ivan and the Suam (yeah, he talked me into that one too).

Tim.
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#9905 - 09/23/03 01:44 PM Re: Badfinger? [Re: Timbo]
Anonymous
Unregistered


thanks, this is very helpful

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#9906 - 09/23/03 01:56 PM Re: Badfinger? [Re: Timbo]
Dan0930 Offline
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Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 630
Loc: Connecticut
double ropes can make it easier but it can be done efficently with a single line and minimal rope drag. it just takes a little planning. Before the traverse place a 3 or 4 foot runner on the nut and another long runner in the middle of the traverse. once over the roof a cam on a 2 foot runner protects that move.

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#9907 - 09/23/03 02:37 PM Re: Badfinger? [Re: Dan0930]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Since i've never used double ropes, i will try the method Dan recommends. But don't you want to place some cams right before the roof? it will probably still create a rope drag.

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#9908 - 09/24/03 12:21 AM Re: Badfinger?
Timbo Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 694
Loc: Delaware
Yep, it will. It's a big roof. As I said, a sling long enough to prevent rope drag over the ceiling will result in the leader banging into the corner if she were to fall before getting gear over the roof.

On the plus side, you can get good gear over the roof before making the crux move. This will prevent to big swing into the corner. But you will need to finish the traverse and get that gear in while risking the big swing left.

Enjoy.

TS
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#9909 - 09/24/03 02:35 PM Re: Badfinger?
Dan0930 Offline
addict

Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 630
Loc: Connecticut
Place a piece in the middle of the traverse on a long runner thenplace a piece before the roof if you have any questions and unclip it after you get in a piece on the roof. its not very challenging to get the jug rail at the roof and once you are there you can place any cam your heart desires pretty much

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