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#9976 - 09/27/03 03:24 PM Chimneys at the Gunks
Steven Cherry Offline


Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
There's really quite a few, I'll just start us off. All ratings approximate. And we're omitting some of the most classic Gunks routes, including the visionary Minnebelle, because they're at Skytop.

Double Chimney (5.0-5.5)
Love this route. The first part is unprotected, but really 5.2 at the most. The second chimney is very very very well protected, and no harder than 5.5. Fun move coming out of it. There’s a variation 3rd pitch to this route that’s 5.7 and great (not a chimney).

Easy Keyhole (5.2)
First part of the route is a chimney, with not too much gear. Easy climbing, but be careful.

Lost City Crack (5.easy).
LCC is 5.10, but the first part is an easy and fun chimney with some gear.

Shockley’s Ceiling (5.easy)
Some easy fun chimneying starts this route.

Sundown/Maria (5.easy)
Completely unprotected, but not at all hard, chimneying to the top of a freestanding block. This is the best way to start Maria, since it avoids Frogs Head entirely.

Updraft (5.5)
The p3 chimey is a wonderful place to be on a hot summer day—cool, in both senses of the word. Not much gear though.

Boston (5.5)
(I’ve never done this, so this is hearsay) Not much gear, and easily toproped. Not often led.

Layback (5.5)
Unprotected until the chockstone. Hard—but not impossible—to fall out.

Yellow Ridge (5.6 or 5.7)
The wide section looks imtimidating, and it’s pretty hard if you try climb it with pure wide-crack technique. The gear is fine though, albeit officially PG.

Baby (5.6)
The p2 roof might be the technical crux, but the commitment crux of this route is the p1 wide section. Can be laybacked, face climbed around, or, of course, chimneyed, though that’s a bit harder nowadays with the chockstone gone.

White Pillar (5.7)
There is gear all the way in the corner, a fall would be awkward and very painful, but not tragic. There is one great (large cam) gear placement out where you’d want it at the little ledge where you swing out for Harvest Moon, which can be toproped from the top of White Pillar.

Keyhole (5.7)
In the words of Russ Clune while watching me flail—and I mean the pathetic, desparate thrutching kind of flail—“5.7, yeah, right.” No worse than PG for gear, especially if you sling the chockstone.

Ventre de Bouef (5.easy; 5.8)
Like Lost City Crack, a 5.10 route with an easy chimney start (this is the variation, the regular route is 5.9 face). The regular finish to VdB is a wild 5.8 chimney, classic back-on-one-wall, feet-on-the-other climbing. Good gear if you have the biggest cams.

Pink Laurel (5.8+/5.9-)
You mostly climb outside of the chimney, but there's some chimneying nonetheless. Great route, G for gear.

Rusty Trifle/Trusty Rifle variation (5.9)
I always get these routes, and the variations confused. Very good wide crack, protectable with the biggest cams. Short, and can be toproped by walking in from the right.

Last Frontier (5.10)
Bombay chimney, super fun, classic Yosemite climbing. Good gear, nothing big needed, some tricams strongly recommended.

Mental Block (5.10?)
The offwidth to the right of Stupid Crack is probably harder than Sonya, which is 5.10. Painful because of the Gunks pebbles. Gear is fine, except you worry about hitting the tree behind you. Easily toproped.

#9977 - 09/27/03 04:01 PM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: Steven Cherry]
ARCHER Offline

Registered: 09/10/02
Posts: 81
Big chimney, ....... first multi-pitch lead.
updraft...... exciting cck bailout
keyhole..... large boulder problem, first lead can't screw up the pro,

soooooooo many memories........ aaaarrrrrrgggghhhhhhh!!!!!!

#9978 - 09/27/03 04:44 PM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: Steven Cherry]
paborden Offline

Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 367
Loc: On the road...
I think the above list forgot the two best chimneys/wide cracks around, both in LC.

There´s that large chimney way down on the right (way past LC crack) that goes at, I think, a .7, though I haven´t tried it. Anyone have info on the gear on this one?

Then, there´s that large crack further down on the right that goes completely through the block (though, getting to, or seeing for that matter, the other side is difficult). It goes at around .9 for the front and .10 for the back, though I haven´t tried it.

Anyone have any more info on these? Names?

#9979 - 09/28/03 12:19 AM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: paborden]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
And then there's the 60 foot pure-back-and-leg-technique chimnet at Peters Kill. I can't understand why it didn'
t get it's oown listing in the guide, maybe there's no gear in there (I TRed it years ago). But it's possibly the best chimeny I've ever done. Anywhere. I'd call it 5.5 or 6.

And there's the 3-4 foot wide gap that splits the Thunderdome (I think) pinnacle at Lost City. One foot on each wall and don't lean too far forward or backwards! Maybe 5.7. (see attached pic. Yes the climber is pasted in - to give a sense of scale - , hence the sport top and snow)

93125-LCchimney4.jpg (221 downloads)

#9980 - 09/28/03 12:35 AM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: Steven Cherry]
Fraser Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 701
Loc: New Canaan, CT
Steven - Thanks for that. I guess you've also got to include Dirty Chimney since its done so often to set up Laurel. Never done Silly Chimney, but First Trapps Chimney isn't so bad. My all time favorite though is probably The Tunnel. I guess I need to go do Tunnel Vision instead?

BTW Double Chimney isn't in my old Swain, where is it?


PS Now I've got to get one of the Krusty Klowns to go do these with me!

#9981 - 09/28/03 03:41 PM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: Steven Cherry]

5.9 R white corner millbrook has a 2 short section of chimney. hey Steve how where chimney's on steck salathe?

#9982 - 09/28/03 05:54 PM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: Steven Cherry]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
there's a awesome chimney in peterskill behind the block that Oops is on.

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

#9983 - 09/28/03 09:08 PM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: Steven Cherry]
MurphysLaw Offline

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
What, no Belly Roll? That's the only chimney that it is actually kinda fun to flail in.

And almost impossible to fall out of.
(yeah, I know - this coming from the guy who wussed out of the Layback chimney )

Bodyrock AKA Hump and Dump at PK is another fun (albeit short) chimney.

Double Chimney is the other name for Big Chimney, right?

I'd count YR and Baby more as offwidths than a true chimney, since unless you are tiny, you are less than halfway in at any given time.
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"

#9984 - 09/29/03 12:50 AM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: Steven Cherry]
Dan0930 Offline

Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 630
Loc: Connecticut
Lost city crack chimeny is avoided by doing the fun arete/face instead much better than that ugly munge fest.

though i have a general distaste for them others include. the chimney/gully next to dilithium crystal in LC and the one you solo to put the TR on gravity's

#9985 - 09/29/03 12:53 PM Re: Chimneys at the Gunks [Re: Steven Cherry]
jj221 Offline

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 127
Loc: Morristown, NJ
This is more offwidth than true chimney (so is most of this list) but on the way up to the business end of Inverted Layback you can pick up about 12 feet of nice offwidth. If you are thinking about the upcoming crux you'll hardly even notice.

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