Springtime in the Gunks

Posted by: rg@ofmc

Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 07:14 PM

The weather last Saturday was inviting:



There were more people on the crag above than there are in this picture, and there are at least five more people on the ground not in this view.
Posted by: MurphysLaw

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 07:33 PM

There was a crowd on the Frog's Head wall?

That *never* happens.....

Congrats to those who got out and enjoyed the lovely weather for some vertical silliness.

I opted for a family bike ride, which was lovely.
Em wanted to go again on Sunday, she was bummed that we couldn't cuz it was raining.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 08:27 PM

There were parties all over Madame G's as well. I counted 4 simultaneous rope teams at one point. Which on a (one or) two pitch route, makes for some interesting traffic issues!

But everyone seemed polite and just too happy to be out on a great day. Too bad it can't be like that all summer. The difference could also be that it is the most serious climbers that rush to get their season underway in March, and these folks generally have a good handle on behavior and climbing etiquette.
Posted by: Smike

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 09:30 PM

Ya I we ran into 2!!! other parties at Lost City....ugg

Of course too bad since Winter Round 2 is coming up by end of this week.
Posted by: Terrie

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 09:59 PM

We were in the Nears, avoiding crowds.... there were probably 5 or 6 parties that we ran into the whole day.

As for this coming weekend - that is just not fair! Still time for the weather to shift back to a more respectable position, though....
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 10:55 PM

Sunday was good too, if you woke up early enough. I'm guessing the Mike and Molly household didnt take advantage of the early morning climbing weather. I did though, and bagged my first 5.10 lead of the year! yippee for me. I'm paying for it today though.

RR
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 10:56 PM

Cool!

Four friends of mine drove out from Boston on Saturday. They had a great time - would have joined them if I hadn't had an obligation that evening. Here's my friend Jen on Shockley's. It's her hardest lead to date!



As for me, at least I had time to enjoy the fantastic weather at a local crag. Urban climbing at its finest!




Looking forward to seeing some of y'all out at the Gunks soon!

GO
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 11:08 PM

Speaking of spring climbing - has anyone ever run into exfoliated stuff on the first climbing days of the season? Most other places I've been have this problem - where the freeze-thaw cycles of the winter separate blocks that were still barely connected in the fall, and the first one to come across it in the spring gets an unhappy surprise. Seems like this wouldn't be as much of an issue - the Gunks doesn't exfoliate like granite does, but there's still got to be some action - that huge talus field the the stairmaster goes up didn't get placed there on its own!

Anyone have any experience with this at the Gunks? Any areas or climbs you'd avoid early in the season?

GO
Posted by: D75

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/13/06 11:23 PM

You and all the friends you can convince might just want to stay away until mid july when it warms up and the crowds thin a bit.

Must be some reason everybody is wearing helmets.

Maybe even work on urban climbing guide book. Be sure to include a chapter on all of the dangers of climbing outside urban areas like the gunks - copperheads, raptor closures, mountain lions, bears, rockfall - especially the kind of exfoliation caused by not so nimble noobs.

Seriously, all the talus was trucked in by appies to make it look scary.
Posted by: Smike

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 02:17 AM

RR wrote:
I'm paying for it today though.
Sunday I was paying for the Rollie's competition that broke out at around mid-night, oh ya btw, your significant other puts us all to same. She is the Rollie goddess....
Posted by: Aya

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 02:25 AM

Well, I climbed ice AND rock on Saturday - I did Crystal Ice Tower (go me!) first thing in the AM and then headed across the road to the Spiders Web and climbed a bunch of classic crack climbs. Starting off the season following 10s and 11s wasn't really what I was planning, but I'm kind of enjoying the wow I climbed really hard ache that I've got going on in my back today. Here's a tip, though, don't climb rock in your ice harness. Mine just doesn't fit right without all the layers of padding and I've got some nasty bruises on my hips today....

I can't wait for my first climb at the gunks this year!
Posted by: D75

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 03:45 AM

good aya. then maybe it would be on topic
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 05:36 AM

Quote:

You and all the friends you can convince might just want to stay away until mid july when it warms up and the crowds thin a bit.

Must be some reason everybody is wearing helmets.

Maybe even work on urban climbing guide book. Be sure to include a chapter on all of the dangers of climbing outside urban areas like the gunks - copperheads, raptor closures, mountain lions, bears, rockfall - especially the kind of exfoliation caused by not so nimble noobs.

Seriously, all the talus was trucked in by appies to make it look scary.




D75, I may be drunk right now, but you'll still be an ass in the morning.

Oh yeah...

GO
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 04:03 PM

bah, it's still ski/riding season! Killington was fantastic this weekend. Saturday started a little hard, but quickly loosened up when the sun came out. A temperature inversion kept the mountain soft all night, and on Sunday, despite a frozen parking lot, the mountain was in spectacular condition. Perfect, soft, spring corn everywhere. It paid to be out early, because at around 1:30, it rained to beat the band. But man was it a fun day while it lasted.
Posted by: climbEEr

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 04:17 PM

Quote:

Speaking of spring climbing - has anyone ever run into exfoliated stuff on the first climbing days of the season? Most other places I've been have this problem - where the freeze-thaw cycles of the winter separate blocks that were still barely connected in the fall, and the first one to come across it in the spring gets an unhappy surprise. Seems like this wouldn't be as much of an issue - the Gunks doesn't exfoliate like granite does, but there's still got to be some action - that huge talus field the the stairmaster goes up didn't get placed there on its own!

Anyone have any experience with this at the Gunks? Any areas or climbs you'd avoid early in the season?

GO




While we were racking up on Maria Direct, there was a party up on City Lights or in that area that kept dislodging softball sized rocks and allowing them to rain down on to the people below. Occasionally they would call rock. So that kept us on our toes but we didn't find anything loose while climbing.
Posted by: greyalien

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 04:50 PM

Well I didnt get up to the gunks last weekend, but I did go bouldering here yesterday. We were expecting the usual 40 degrees and numb fingers, but it was 75! I was too hot the whole time. Not only was I climbing without a shirt on, but I wished i had been wearing shorts! Might go again today, so at least it will be cooler. We have recently found a TON of awesome bouldering around here so were pretty psyched on that, but hopefully we can get up to ny next weekend. (Dont worry, Im not crazy and prefer a day of trad to bouldering).
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 04:53 PM

Speaking of bouldering, there was a bunch of folks out on Cat Rock in Central Park on Saturday. I was walking by with some friends and WeeVee made a dash for some of the small rocks nearby shouting "Me climb, me climb."

Daddy was very proud of his boy.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 05:57 PM

GV, Is Heckscher Playground open yet?
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/14/06 06:43 PM

Didn't walk right by it to see what's going on but from where I was it looks like one big construction site.
Posted by: empicard

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/16/06 01:31 AM

Quote:

Here's a tip, though, don't climb rock in your ice harness. Mine just doesn't fit right without all the layers of padding and I've got some nasty bruises on my hips today....





Here's a shocker, some people use the same harness all year long!!!!
Posted by: Aya

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/16/06 02:04 AM

Yeah well my rock harness didn't fit over all the layers when I started ice climbing so I bought a Blizzard for that. I need to stick to womens specific harnesses because of my hips... Anyways... to get back on topic... I wanted to head up this weekend but it looks like it will be a little too cold.

All the better; I can sleep off the inevitable St. Patty's hangover that way, I guess.
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/16/06 02:13 AM

or you could go to NH. there should be a foot+ of freshies by the time the present stretch of flurries are done. (you'll only get to play in it if you stay out of the resorts)
Posted by: Daniel

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/16/06 05:27 AM

bah, it's still ski/riding season!

Knee-deep powder (in spots) at Jackson Hole today.

Off to Squaw Valley on Saturday, where they're reporting a base of 280 inches at mid-mountain.

I think spring can wait a little while longer.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/16/06 01:59 PM

oh, you lucky bastard!! Squaw is getting pounded again today, expecting 2-3 feet of new fluff! You'd better have chains!

Closer to home, Killington is reporting they got 7" of new snow in the last 24 hours.
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/16/06 10:35 PM

seriously, its been snowing for like 2 weeks straight in tahoe. though be prepared, after tommorow i am done studying ont he weekends so that means the weather should turn to crap for skiing.

Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/17/06 03:34 AM

Quote:

Closer to home, Killington is reporting they got 7" of new snow in the last 24 hours.




Yeah, but that's been spread across two skiing days. It'll be tracked off by the time you get there this weekend (if you're going)

go backcountry somewhere that holds powder. do yourself a favor.

i have to use up my mEticket too but i ain't doing it this icy weekend. (anyone who skis with me in late march/early april can get a discount hint hint)

wish i were at squaw again. i was there in february and they got a lot of snow but not as much as they were getting now. don't forget to hike the Palisades
Posted by: Aya

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/17/06 03:50 AM

Well nevermind. It looks like I'll be the idiot trying to climb rock at the gunks this weekend. 10-1 I propose quitting at noon to retire to Bacchus.
Posted by: Smike

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/17/06 01:37 PM

Ya whos gonna be around? Home im provement will be the order of the weekend, but me thinks running into town to down some suds might be in order.
Posted by: talus

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/17/06 01:49 PM

aid climbing
Posted by: chazman

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/17/06 01:56 PM

Quote:

Closer to home, Killington is reporting they got 7" of new snow in the last 24 hours.



Don't even get me started... we just got back from the annual "Dad's Ski Trip" at Killington and while it was a blast as usual (I entered the world of free heel skiing and suspect I may never look back ) but back to my rant... that mountain is in the worst shape I have even seen it for early/mid March. They need 7 FEET of snow to recover... or just call it a season. What pisses me off is the trail reports indicating a 20-30" avg base depth... trust me... Dirt - 12" is more realistic
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/17/06 03:05 PM

Yeah, a lot of trails are closed, but you should have been there this past weekend before the rains came. I'm not kidding, it was spectacular. Dream Maker was perfect moguls top to bottom, and all of Bear Mountain was beautiful. Unfortunately, the warm weekend temps, and the rain that blew in Sunday afternoon, hurt 'em pretty bad.
Posted by: Aya

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/20/06 03:50 AM

Quote:

Ya whos gonna be around? Home im provement will be the order of the weekend, but me thinks running into town to down some suds might be in order.




You get much home improvement done???

Well, I fufilled my climbing quota for the next few weeks I think. My arms are shot. What an awesome weekend - how often do you get the gunks to yourself on a weekend??
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/20/06 03:52 AM

News flash, this weekend was not springtime at the Gunks, either by the calendar or in terms of temperature

Skied Right Gully on Tuckermans today. Hahaha powder*!!!1





* ok, and lots and lots of ice. we're talking NHL regulation size ice. But, powder! Hahaha!
Posted by: Smike

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/20/06 02:42 PM

You get much home improvement done???
Not much, too busy shooting photos of you...

Anyway I thought you're done climbing for the season now that you have lead the two routes you wanted for the season? Nice job on both climbs.
Posted by: Aya

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 12:36 AM

Awesome awesome photos, thanks.

And it was 3 routes, actually, because I wanted to lead Arrow, as well. I'm busy consulting my book and coming up with a long list of 7's and 8's to do, but while I'm at it, I think I'm going to throw this out there; we'll see how realistic it is. My new goals are to lead Son of Easy O (incentive to work on that upper body strength, so I need more of those slightly steeper 6's to get strong on!) and Ant's Line (because I just want to add another 9 for the heck of it and I think I can do it).

Hope the weather is as nice next weekend - when it's properly springtime...!
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 02:09 AM

Aya--did you lead WASP? Finally got your first 9, not bad...

That was an earlyish 9 for me as well. Not sure I want to go back there again, especially now that I'm fat and old and weak.
Posted by: Aya

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 02:11 AM

I did do Wasp!
It wasn't too bad. I liked it a lot.
High E was a horrorshow. Good thing I wasn't wearing mascara because I was pretty much crying. I'm such a wimp!
Posted by: Julie

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 02:24 AM

I will repeat my usual:

If I can lead Ants line, you can cruise it for sure!

Groovy's a good stepping stone for Ants. Wasp was my first (intentional) 9 too
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 04:03 AM

Aya, heh did I tell you my High E story? Oy vay...
Posted by: Aya

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 12:06 PM

Let's hear it.
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 01:43 PM

Well, I read the moves wrong -- I hand traversed and heel hooked under the block, tried to swing up, realized I was making it into a 10 and backed off. I got super pumped and sat in the alcove for a while shaking out and panicing (trying the patience of the pair of Valley climbers below who eventually just gave me the beta.)

So I made the move, got some gear a little too often, and spent a lot of time hanging out on gear or at the stance on top of the block trying to measure my remaining strength and psych myself up to go for the rest. Eventually I just dealt with it...
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 04:57 PM

Skied Right Gully on Tuckermans today. Hahaha powder*!!!1

ped - how's it looking up there? I'm hoiping for a mid-to-late April trip up there. Is there enough snow to last until then?
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/21/06 11:41 PM

I expect by then it may be down to Left Gully below the entrances, and the Chute. Some folks are saying it'll be a short season.

It was icy this weekend and things were filled in OK (with alpine ice that probably goes all the way to China) but not as well as it was in late February '05. There was some fresh pow in the form of windslab that had been blown down low. Some scarier hanging slabs high up. East Snowfields, however, were holding up surprisingly well.

I'm going up April 8th most likely and camping with a group at the field.
Posted by: donald perry

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/24/13 06:17 PM

Anyone have any new climbing photos at the Gunks? This helps get one off the couch.
Posted by: worthrussell

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/28/13 01:31 PM

Wow gunks season is underway. No snow and dry yesterday. Enjoy and be safe
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/29/13 02:41 AM

Yesterday was spent climbing oodles of fat blue hero ice in the Adirondacks!
Posted by: Lucander

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/31/13 02:26 AM

Yesterday was spent paddling up 1/4 mile of slabs at Stone Mountain in North Carolina!
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 03/31/13 01:31 PM

Yesterday was spent climbing sweet blue plastic ice in the Catskills.
Posted by: Frank Florence

Re: Springtime in the Gunks - 04/01/13 04:34 PM

I put the crampons back on the shelf this week.

As RR says, there's still good ice in the Daks, including some backcountry spots. Trap Dyke is fat right now. On the other hand, a couple of weeks ago Gothics N Face was just snow, meaning snow-filled cracks and tree anchors. That's enough to put me in the mood for dry rock where I can see the quality of my gear placements.