Posted by: d-elvis
Long Pitches - 08/23/06 01:53 PM
In a rope stretching pitch with lots of gear, is it safer to place gear equally on either side of the rope's line or does it not matter?
Posted by: Architect
Re: Long Pitches - 08/23/06 07:22 PM
I could only imagine that would cause some rope drag and one more overly thought out process to contend with.
especially on a long pitch. It would be better to use doubles on said route. i guess but What the heck do I know these days. I post more then I climb now. URG!
Posted by: crackers
Re: Long Pitches - 08/23/06 07:47 PM
nobody actually knows. the italian mountaineering club's research division is working on the precursors to this problem now...
only when climbing splitters.
Posted by: rackrat
Re: Long Pitches - 08/24/06 01:08 AM
Safer to place gear in a straight line... however that is easiest.
If it's a crack, part of the work of leading is keeping the gear and the rope out of the way of the jams and out of the way for putting your foot in the crack. Putting the gear all on one side is a big advantage along those lines.
The only time I can think putting gear on opposite sides is safer is when you want to trap the rope where a fall involves some penduluming. For example, say your gear is 4 feet off to the left from where you're going to pull an overhang, with a 4 foot sling on it, then if you can get a piece 3 feet off to the right (at the same height) with a 4 footer on it, then the one on the right will keep you from swinging more than a foot to the left (instead of 4 feet). (Of course, keeping yourself from getting tangled up in those slings is a major challenge....)
Posted by: Architect
Re: Long Pitches - 08/25/06 12:45 PM
If I believe correctly Thats a 5.1! lets not go sandbaggin' here we are respectable Gunkies and thats my BOY! you go!
Posted by: irisharehere
Re: Long Pitches - 08/25/06 01:50 PM
Nah man, bust out the Yates Big Wall chest-harness/double gearsling!
Show all those slack-jawed gawkers how much gear a real, non-capri-wearing man can carry!!!!!!
Posted by: browndog2
Re: Long Pitches - 08/25/06 03:01 PM
That there's what we call training weight.
Laugh all you want, that boys gettin' strong.