Death block on Annie Oh

Posted by: wombat

Death block on Annie Oh - 09/10/10 10:51 PM

On the second pitch, the big block at the start of the steepness is now REALLY loose. It is quite chalked so don't be sucked in. The moves to avoid it to the right are actually more fun absent to big jugs on the block.

Hopefully this can be cleared without killing anyone..
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/10/10 11:17 PM

You mean the block that makes up the crux of the pitch? I know it's always been fairly scary. Are you saying it has gotten worse?
Posted by: HR1

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/11/10 12:08 AM

I thought that the crux was a bit above the block?
Posted by: Julie

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/11/10 02:35 PM

I remember it as having a good 1-2 inches of wobble. Is it more now?
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/11/10 05:58 PM

You mean that &%*^%%$ triangular piece is still there after all these decades? If no one has inadvertently pulled it down, it must be a good hold although it sure doesn't feel like one.
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/11/10 08:46 PM

Think how many decades the rockin' flake was in Mac-Reppy and keeping that o-hang a reasonable but disconcerting 5.8.

Is the loose block near the top of P1 of Cakewalk still there?
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/11/10 10:23 PM

Originally Posted By: MarcC
Think how many decades the rockin' flake was in Mac-Reppy and keeping that o-hang a reasonable but disconcerting 5.8.


2.2 decades, to be precise. (FA in "65. Flake broke/fell out in "87.)
Posted by: Rickster

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/11/10 11:30 PM

Probably in place long before the first ascent. Maybe thousands of years.
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/12/10 12:34 PM

yeah but how many people were yarding on it a thousand years ago?
Posted by: Julie

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/12/10 06:12 PM

This block?

(NOT ME!)

Posted by: oenophore

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/12/10 07:25 PM

Ah yes.
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/12/10 08:15 PM

Speaking of things that people yard on that are inexplicably still attached (note the horizontal crack at the "ankle" level):



[If you don't know and are on a Windoze machine, right click on the image, then "View Image" for full-size goodness.]
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/12/10 08:24 PM

I have never, ever, so much as touched that block. I do think that climbing around it without using it in any way pushes the grade to 5.9-.

Above that block is a very large rectagular flake that is separated from the main wall by a crack running around the entire perimeter. People stuff cams in the top of that flake and stand on it.

A time will come when that flake goes. One hopes geological time.
Posted by: chip

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/13/10 01:57 AM

Sounds like I was the only one to lead that pitch without know there was a big, loose block at the crux. Woke me up when I pulled! The excursion was enough to convince me not to touch it again.
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/13/10 12:17 PM

I think it is definitely the crux of the route. All that doubt starts creeping into your head. "What am I doing here?? This thing is going to come off and I am going to kill my belayer and everyone below me! I should back off. Why am I still contemplating this? This is stupid!.......Oh..look at that, I made it past. The climbing above is so wonderfully non scary!"
Posted by: Kent

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/13/10 07:41 PM

Does anyone remember the loose block on P2 of Grim-Ace Face? The last time I saw it intact, back in 2004 or so, you could nudge it with your finger and it would rotate back and forth. A week later it had either fallen of its own accord or it had been trundled.

Over in the Bayards there is stuff like that all over the place.
Posted by: chip

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/13/10 09:08 PM

Sounds like the Bayards needs a little more climber traffic :-)
Posted by: Kent

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/13/10 09:18 PM

Haha. Caveat emptor.
Posted by: chip

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 09/13/10 09:21 PM

And well replied, Kent.
Posted by: wombat

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 10/04/10 07:37 PM

It felt alot looser to me than it had in previous trips. I would not counter RG's assessment but I always find that something seems harder when intentionally avoiding a block that you are concerned might cleave your spouse in twain.

Speaking of which...first time up Nurses Aid yesterday. How long has that fractured chockstone up top been there? I really wanted to yard on that one by the time I got there!

Does one use the old Millbrook trail to get to the Bayards climbs? The re-routed trail really bites.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 10/04/10 09:56 PM

Speaking of which...first time up Nurses Aid yesterday. How long has that fractured chockstone up top been there? I

Since 1980, at least.
Posted by: Coppertone

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 10/05/10 12:37 AM

I was on Annie O yesterday as the block did seem a bit looser than in past years. It isn't all that hard to avoid using in all together. I don't think that is really any harder if you avoid the block completely. There is a good little pocket just to the right that works fine.
Posted by: chip

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 10/05/10 01:09 AM

I almost sh!t my pants the first time I grabbed that block.
Posted by: socialist1

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 11/12/12 04:45 AM

This is now gone! (and at the base of Three Doves)

Is there a story?
Posted by: chip

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 11/12/12 02:47 PM

Hopefully fell off by itself, but I doubt it.
Posted by: tradjunkie

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 11/12/12 06:02 PM

Holy cow. So did you climb the route without the block? How is it without it?
Posted by: socialist1

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 11/12/12 06:59 PM

Yep, climbed it yesterday.

I never used it before, and would instead stay low underneath it until I could get around to holds slightly right and above it. This used to involve smaller but good holds at the base where the block sat. With the block gone, there is now a giant jug. So it is a little bit easier for those who didn't use the block.

For those who used it before, I speculate it might be a little bit harder but still the same grade.
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Death block on Annie Oh - 11/12/12 08:06 PM

PHOTOS!!! We need photos!!!!!