toprope soloing-best routes?

Posted by: scottf

toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/02/13 05:46 PM

Any advice on most promising routes for top-rope soloing (fixed anchor above, minitraxion x 2 etc.) that meet these general criteria? -

1) Relatively easy access from above
2) Good anchor availability
2) Nice exposure
4) Sustained climbing, possibly even up to 175 feet more or less straight up (limited traverses etc. - difficult with fixed anchors above)
5) Least disruptive to others

many thanks!
Posted by: chip

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/02/13 06:53 PM

Unfortunately, All the best routes I can think of for this in the Trapps are generally very popular climbs. I have done some of this at Peterskill, which works well, but these are certainly not going to give the length of climb you asked for. Keep in mind that there is tremendous stretch on a 100+ pice of rope and you might then hit the ground with any fall from lower than 10+ feet off the ground. Have fun!
Posted by: scottf

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/02/13 06:59 PM

True - I use a static rope, which helps on the stretch. And I do enjoy Peterskill too, which makes it simple... just love to get on some higher and longer routes...
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/03/13 02:09 AM

What sort of grade are you looking for?

Doing something long in one pitch likely means you'll be approaching the top by hiking up. How well can you recognize routes from the top of the Trapps? Or Nears for that matter. Cuz I'll recommend Grand Central, but if you don't know where it tops out, you could waste a lot of time getting set up properly.

Maybe Arrow, No Glow (yea, it traverses just off the GTL but it's a safe i.e. outward, swing if you come off). Doubleissima. Birdland, Fat City Direct.
Posted by: scottf

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/03/13 04:29 AM

Up to mid-5.11's. Am pretty new to the area - Thanks a lot - I agree it's going to take some time and beta locating the top-outs. I'll look these climbs up.
Posted by: scottf

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/03/13 04:32 AM

by the way, just wondering, could climbs like Dennis or Jackie go in one pitch this way, and easy to set up from top? convenient from uberfall it seems
Posted by: RobT

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/03/13 04:48 PM

Almost anything in the Nears.
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/06/13 03:10 PM

why do folks describe pitches in feet when ropes are measured in meters wink

if you had a 70m you can do Doubleissima, Ridiculissima, Double Crack, retribution, (might be too overhanging.. i dunno but they are straight nice routes)

mid week you're less likely to run into people on the more popular stuff.
Posted by: retroscree

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/06/13 04:27 PM

Originally Posted By: jakedatc
why do folks describe pitches in feet when ropes are measured in meters wink

For many decades, US guidebooks described routes and pitches in feet. Ropes were also sold in feet. Designating rope lengths in meters in the US is a relatively new practice which really didn't take hold until the later half of the 90's.
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/06/13 05:33 PM

so ropes haven't been sold that way in quite a while.. get with the times man wink haha I can understand still labeling pitches that way.. but when asking for what routes can be done at what rope length using the newer standard would seem easier. I know a friend did ridiculissima and Madamn G's in 1 pitch with a 70m. no idea how many feet that is.
Posted by: retroscree

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/06/13 07:21 PM

Exactly. We've been buying ropes in meters for well over a decade yet we still have no idea how that relates to the pitches we climb.

Doing Gunks routes in one pitch with a 70m is certainly possible. It's also a great way for the second to hit the ground on those routes with low cruxes.
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/06/13 07:53 PM

Yea. definitely depends on the route and the parties involved.

I was on the anchor of Son of Easy O and i thought one stronger (.13) friend was climbing and it turned out another(.8-9) was going to try first and I didn't have him as tight as i would have and he was just off the ground from rope stretch. and that's only 35m. I also probably would have just lowered off and belayed from the bottom.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/06/13 09:38 PM

Some routes with early difficulty where combining pitches is a bad idea: Classic, Son of EO, Maria Direct, Higher Stannard, Drunkards. Absurdland (OK, there's no real 2nd pitch here to combine), Three Vultures, Directissima, Double Crack.

Probably a few at Near Trapps, but I'm not gonna rack my brain to think of them. Broken Sling and Criss Cross do come to mind however.
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/06/13 10:25 PM

I know, but we were talking about him TR soloing so many of those have traverses he won't want either so it's not an issue. So it's more of what he is comfortable getting himself up off the ground on when rope stretch and slack with (solo device of choice) could be an issue.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/06/13 11:52 PM

Yes, I know. I was more following the tangent that 70m ropes let one string pitches together. My point - which has been made before by others - is that sometimes that's a bad idea.
Posted by: donald perry

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/07/13 12:22 AM

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2132254/best-top-rope-problems-at-the-Gunks-Just-my-opinion
Posted by: scottf

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 05/07/13 01:58 PM

Thanks Donald, that's a great start. I appreciate the post.
Posted by: Chas

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 10/14/13 03:18 AM

For least disruptive, access to top... its the place no one talks about (LC).. The Trapps fit the bill but there will be lots of climbs that you will probably disrupt people, until you get into the mid.11's... give you are saying 175ft, I take it your static line is 55m which is unusual sinxe often the static line is 60m, 70m, 100m (half spool) or 200m (full spool) I ask since I am starting to use a 200m static line to work projects.
Posted by: Chas

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 10/14/13 03:23 AM

70m is about 230ft
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: toprope soloing-best routes? - 10/25/13 09:52 PM

I've never toprope soloed anything longer than a short pitch, but it seems like there should be a pretty decent solution to a number of issues, including overhangs, short traverses, and rope stretch at the bottom:

After setting the anchor, rap the route (wouldn't you need to do this anyway to get the rope running cleanly?) and as you do, set directionals on your way down. Then, periodically, leave the rope tied in direct to pieces (perhaps at stances).

Seems like this should take care of all of those issues, no?

GO