beta on yellow wall

Posted by: Anonymous

beta on yellow wall - 07/28/03 03:12 AM

is the pro good on yellow wall? what is the climbing like?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: beta on yellow wall - 07/28/03 06:26 AM

The pro is very good once you get past the first 20 feet or so. It's bomber at the crux.

The climbing is utterly fantastic. Just take a look up from the base of the climb and you'll know what's it's all about.

The only tricky bit is if you do the 2nd pitch ... your second doesn't want to come off on the initial 10+ roof above the belay.

Posted by: Dan0930

Re: beta on yellow wall - 07/28/03 02:08 PM

Yeha the pro you get is LLB said don't fall off the 5.7...bring a blue camalot and as a note the fixed sling above the second roof is gone...If you F up the first roof no big deal. If you F up the second roof....well don't F up the second roof.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: beta on yellow wall - 07/28/03 10:57 PM

in the william select, what part of the yellow wall does he picture?
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: beta on yellow wall - 05/28/04 04:10 PM

I think the most inspiring peice of pro on the route is the first pin/nut combo 20' up P2. It is inspiring for sure!
Posted by: Dan0930

Re: beta on yellow wall - 05/28/04 04:35 PM

Hey dave.. lost your email send me a PM with it....

Posted by: BobbyS

Re: beta on yellow wall - 06/07/04 11:17 PM

Bring a 3 camalot and a pink tri-cam for the last pitch. The first 5.11 crux is G-pro rated. Agree with not f-up the last pitch roof. You probably won't get hurt but you will sail.

This climb is super if you do the first pitch and then link the last 2 pitches. Many people don't do the last pitch but they are really missing out (you can do 1 pitch from the ground past the first crux to a station if you don't want to do the last pitch)

One picture is Williams on the first crux. The second is Williams above the last pitch crux which I always thought was more like exciting 5.10.

Gear beta to follow

There is a solid yellow tcu in a small scar right above the last pitch roof. You will have to climb through the roof to place it and when you move right (second picture of Williams in the guidebook) you will to reach down and place it at your knees. I didn't find it the first time I did it and was fairly puckered going up the corner. I don't think a wider piece line a yellow alien would work. Otherwise you got something like 12-15 feet of climbing up the open book before getting a piece with your last gear on long runners below the roof.

In the second Williams pic you can also see that there used to be a fixed sling around a flak. The flake there used to be bigger and there was a fixed sling around it but that is gone. There also used to be a big bong to protect the first crux but that is now gone also (blue camalot).