Posted by: paborden
Un-freed Aid Routes? - 09/11/03 11:45 PM
Just wondering...have either Poops or Spinal Traction (I think both go at 5.6 A3 or so) ever been freed? The William's Select book doesn't state so if that's the case. Have there been any attempts at these lines?
It's not like I'm about to go jump on these anytime soon, just curious really.
Posted by: TARGHEE
Re: Un-freed Aid Routes? - 09/14/03 02:59 PM
See Swain's guide for info on free attempts on Poops
Posted by: MarcC
Re: Un-freed Aid Routes? - 09/14/03 04:14 PM
If you want to get really picky about things, technically some of the free versions of aid routes follow a variation and not the original aid line. Twilight Zone and Open Cockpit are two that come to mind.
Posted by: Eddie
ST - 09/15/03 11:32 AM
spinal traction goes more like 5.4 c1+ (maybe c2- if you need to stroke you ego. it is fairly simple....provided you are confortable hanging from a roof!)
Posted by: Anonymous
Re: ST - 09/16/03 12:47 AM
eddie.... you've spent too much time in Yosemite if you think Spinal Traction is C1+ remember the first time you did it?
Posted by: Eddie
Re: ST - 09/16/03 01:06 AM
yeah i remember it well. climbed up through the runoff went out, pulled some gear, took a "bottom drops out" fall andf went home.
came back again,climbed up, swore, bitch, cried, bitched and swore myself over the lip, and off!
alll and all it was difficult work, but no harder than C1+.....okay, for you. C2-
That's true, but they also stated that A5 was a "theoretical" grade, equivalent to A4 but with a belay that won't hold. Theoretical means that it isn't used in practice because typically people will bolt the belays.
I've heard stories of people taking 300-footers on continuously overhanging pitches in the valley and living to tell the tale...
Posted by: Dizzy
Un-freed Aid Routes? - 09/16/03 06:49 PM
Isn't the title redundant?
Posted by: RangerRob
Re: ST - 09/22/03 02:29 PM
I've done SP twice, both times without the crux hook placement, and found it to be C2. It is most definitely not A3. You are never more than one piece away from a bomber placement. There's a line left of Kansas City that crosses Outer Space Direct on small seams and right facing corners. That felt harder as there were multiple tenuous small wires in a row above an ankle breaking ledge, followed by two consecutive hook moves. That felt C2+ to me.