Stubai to you

Posted by: Anonymous

Stubai to you - 10/09/03 01:17 PM

Led 1st pitch of WASP on Friday, does anybody have any beta on the second pitch, aka is it worth doing?

Posted by: oenophore

Re: Stubai to you - 10/09/03 01:22 PM

The upper pitches are very different from the first - lower angle, easier, with a fun overhang. I'd say they're worth doing.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Stubai to you - 10/09/03 01:30 PM

The guidebook rates the pitch at "5.9 pg", do you think that is accurate?
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Stubai to you - 10/09/03 03:18 PM

Led 1st pitch of WASP on Friday, does anybody have any beta on the second pitch, aka is it worth doing?

Is that common, for the second pitch of a climb to have a different name to the first ptich? And "Is it worth doing?" is such an odd name. Why wouldn't it just be called P2 of Wasp?
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Stubai to you - 10/09/03 03:33 PM

There is a second pitch to Wasp. It starts a little left of the pine tree belay and heads up and left on a loose wall with poor pro, but only 5.5-ish. The rest of the pitch is unmemorable, dirty in spots, vegetated in others - basically easy climbing with the occasional 5.6 move tossed in.

Stubai to You is a variation finish (hence the different name) that goes up, traverses right to the hanging corner, turns the hang, then goes more or less straight up. In older guidebooks it was a sandbag 8, so 9PG sounds/feels about right.
Posted by: paborden

Re: Stubai to you - 10/09/03 03:37 PM

Actually, we´re talking about two different second pitches here...

Wasp has a second pitch that is definately NOT worth doing.

Williams eliminates the second pitch of wasp and pairs the first pitch with "an old aid-variation" called Stubai To You. So called because Williams´(?) Stubai hammer head broke on the first ascent. It too is 5.9 PG.

I´ve heard mixed things about this one having asked the same question myself a couple months ago...the consensus seemed to be that, if I had just done wasp, it might be worth doing, but definately not worth going back for if I skipped it.
Posted by: Rosceaux

Re: Stubai to you - 10/09/03 05:02 PM


Followed this one years ago. If the second pitch of Stubai involves an undercling crack in the roof that traverses rightwards before pulling the final move, then that's what we did. I thought it was really fun and a nicer way to cap off the easier climbing through most of the Wasp pitch. I'd even make the journey up just to do that again.

Mike
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Stubai to you - 10/09/03 05:12 PM

If the second pitch of Stubai involves an undercling crack in the roof that traverses rightwards before pulling the final move, then that's what we did. I thought it was really fun and a nicer way to cap off the easier climbing through most of the Wasp pitch. I'd even make the journey up just to do that again.

I'll be darned; for decades I thought that was the last pitch of Wasp.
Posted by: Fraser

Re: Stubai to you - 10/10/03 01:15 AM

Oenophore wrote:
The upper pitches are very different from the first - lower angle, easier, with a fun overhang.

I think that is the second pitch of Sticky Gate (having just done it with fdpiton last Friday)- not Wasp. Swain says the second pitch kind of goes straight up. By the way watch out for loose rock at the top. We could always track down Dick at the New and get an answer.
Posted by: Rosceaux

Re: Stubai to you - 10/10/03 01:18 AM


I'll be darned, for decades you've been wrong!

MD