Where are the bolts??

Posted by: Anonymous

Where are the bolts?? - 01/13/04 11:11 PM

The recent sharp fall in the number of posts on this site may cause some of us to work
too hard. Since the weather keeps us 'too cool' guys away from the rock, we can instead
try answering one of those big philosophical questions of life:
Where are the bolts in the Gunks?
The rap bolts have it's own listing on this site, but where are the ones we clip for pro?

To start off:
2nd pitch of Arrow: 2 bolts. Real nice and shiny, give confidence.
1st pitch of Never Never Land, 1 bolt.
1st pitch of Thin Slabs, 1 bolt. A bit on the manky side.
1st pitch of Sente, 2 bolts. Both old rusty 1/4" ?

Is there also one on 1st pitch of Tequila Mockingbird?
Could there also be one on Womb Step?
Posted by: Tai

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/13/04 11:37 PM

There's one (piton, actually) "protecting" the crux move on Shockley's Ceiling; rusty, illmannered-looking thing. Saw a hapless leader take a fall on it; they hadn't sunk a cam or hex into the beautiful crack, in the ceiling, and couldn't pull the Move. The piton held, somehow. *shudder* This just before my first ascent of it.

T
Posted by: Dana

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/14/04 01:27 AM

Bolts that I know of:

1. Phoebe
2. Blackout
3. Dry Martini
4. Gory Thumb
5. Never Never Land
6. J'Accuse
7. Turdland (3)
8. Arrow (2)
9. Worp Factor I
10. April Showers
11. Yellow wall (2)
12. Carbs and Caffeine (2)
13. Scarey Area (2)
14. Fat City
15. Beer and Loathing (2)
16. Sente (3)
17. Wonderland
18. Thins Slabs
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/14/04 04:31 AM

3. Dry Martini - technically 2, the original and the new replacement.

4. Gory Thumb - on the second pitch, which perhaps sees as many as 5 ascents per decade.

19. Keep On Struttin'

A bunch at Lost City and Bonticou.

Historical ones now chopped:
Moonlight
Pumping Pygmies
Posted by: danskiz

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/14/04 08:54 AM

1. Phoebe - That thing would be lucky to hold body weight!
Posted by: Dana

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/14/04 02:09 PM

Chopped bolts:

Never Never Land (2)
Never Say Never
Farewell to Fingers
Posted by: browndog2

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/14/04 03:04 PM

Lets not forget that big shiny bolt on Honky Tonk Woman, which is located about 20 feet below the poorly protected crux, supposedly to keep you from decking when your optimistic gear zippers(?).
Posted by: TARGHEE

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/14/04 06:06 PM

The April Showers' bolt is gone now - think it disappeared last year.
Posted by: Alex

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/14/04 08:26 PM

27 bolts? Is that the number for the Gunks? I wonder how many Seneca has in comparison? Do they even have any bolted rap anchors at all? Perhaps it should have the trad-style title more than the Gunks.
Posted by: tico

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/14/04 08:49 PM

yes, seneca has bolted rap stations, and a more interesting comparison would be a pitches per bolt for both areas. Seneca has all of 500 or so routes.
Posted by: dw@vmc

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/15/04 10:21 PM

Dana, Never Say Never did not have a bolt placed on the first ascent and there wasn't one on it this past fall.
DW
Posted by: Dana

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/17/04 12:40 PM

Never said there was a bolt placed on the first ascent, but when I did it - albeit 1981- I am pretty sure I saw a bolt scar. Perhaps it was placed on a later ascent and chopped.
Posted by: Josh

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/19/04 07:39 PM

Aren't there a (small) number of true sport routes at Seneca?
Posted by: tico

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/19/04 08:22 PM

Quote:

Aren't there a (small) number of true sport routes at Seneca?




yup. Spinnaker (sandbag .10b, i think) comes to mind, but there are other, more in the .12 range if i recall correctly.
Posted by: dw@vmc

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/25/04 10:32 PM

Dana, you said that a bolt was chopped on Never Say Never, I know this isn't so. There used to be a bolt on the direct finish of Never Never land, maybe this is where you saw the remnants ?
dw
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/29/04 04:56 PM

There are a few out at Bontique also. and lost City
~Rob
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 01/31/04 09:38 PM

Where are the bolts in the Lost City? I don't think I have seen any.
Posted by: Schmack

Re: Where are the bolts?? - 03/23/04 06:10 PM

Yeah, there are a bunch. The cave under ecstasy has a ton, all very hard stuff but fun in the WV rain. There are also a number of bolted routes on the fin on the North Side of the notch. I think they are mostly bolted instead of sport. Very hard and far between bolts.