#5 Camalot

Posted by: Doug

#5 Camalot - 05/14/09 02:27 PM

A recent thread asked about carrying a #3 Camalot at the Gunks - how about jumping up to a #5? I want to bring it along some weekend and use it as much use as possible. Suggestions?

It doesn't need to be essential to the protection of the climb (are there any at the Gunks?), but can anyone recall climbs where it would have been useful? I've heard it is nice to have on Baby. I think it would fit in the crack of the namesake section of Layback.

Routes 5.9 and under preferred, but I'd be interested to hear of harder climbs too - someday I may get the nerve for them.
Posted by: dalguard

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 02:41 PM

Keyhole
Airy Aria

There's this thing on the right side just past the steel bridge that I think is called Colorful Crack or something like that. Like 5.6 in the guide book but V0 in the bouldering guide book, so be warned.

There are lots of places you could stick one if you were carrying one but those are the routes (plus Baby) where you'll actually be glad to have it.
Posted by: Doug

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 02:46 PM

Thanks. I haven't been on Airy Aria yet so I'll check it out next trip.
Posted by: chip

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 02:59 PM

I like one on the first pitch of Yellow Ridge, although there is other gear available. On Baby, it brings your gear placement right up to your chest when making the move, rather than at or below your feet. Layback yes. A #4 or #5 at the High E hang brings the gear out right near you. There are plenty of places to throw it in, but most of the time not really needed.
Posted by: phil

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 03:27 PM

The idea of climbing a route just to use a specific piece of protection it really out there... I'm impressed shocked

It seems to me that everytime I buy a new piece of pro... eventually it was needed and I was happy to have it. smile
Posted by: Doug

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 03:40 PM

I don't plan on bringing it to the Gunks much, it was more for out west. This will help justify my purchase though and take some of the shine off wink And it is an excuse to talk about actual routes, instead land/cliff access issues.

At the very least, it reminded me that I wanted to check out Airy Aria.
Posted by: phil

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 03:45 PM

Originally Posted By: Doug
I don't plan on bringing it to the Gunks much, it was more for out west. This will help justify my purchase though and take some of the shine off wink And it is an excuse to talk about actual routes, instead land/cliff access issues.

At the very least, it reminded me that I wanted to check out Airy Aria.


I really liked Airy Aria...

and thanks for changing the subject, my brain was starting to melt. smile
Posted by: tradjunkie

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 04:00 PM

Rusty Jam, a variant start to Trusty Rifle, I think might take a #5. Short and sweet, you can walk off the top of this G-rated miniroute in 30 seconds.
I wonder if you could throw it in somewhere on Betty?
I'm not sure if Baby will take a #5. #4, for sure. I'd be curious to hear for sure one way or the other about a #5.
Is Inverted Layback too big? Probably at the crux, yes, but you could probably put it in somewhere useful.
If nothing else, just having it clanking on your rack will take the shine off. Just carry it up a whole bunch of climbs.
And don't forget toprope anchor options. You could walk along the top of the cliff and toprope whatever climb lies under a #5 placement. That would be a real mystery tour.
Posted by: Doug

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 04:48 PM

Come to think of it, I wonder if it would fit on the first pitch of Wrist...
Posted by: phil

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 05:03 PM

Originally Posted By: Doug
Come to think of it, I wonder if it would fit on the first pitch of Wrist...


LOLOL... smile I was thinking of that too...

What came to mind was the undercling on the first pitch of Andrew.

I used a pretty large cam there, but I totally forget was size it was.
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 05:26 PM

I'll bet lots of climbs that follow cracks and corners have sections wide enough to place that thing. Since most of us don't carry anything that big, we don't even notice the placement opportunities.

Free association suggests the offwidth on Inverted Layback, the flake before the final overhang on the second pitch of Fat Stick Direct, near or above the sometimes-slung chockstone high on Double Crack, before the ceiling, perhaps on the right, on Bonnie's Roof, somewhere on Ventre de Boeuf and Last Frontier, low on the first pitch of Erect Direction, maybe on the corner on the left at the start of the second pitch crux of ED, and maybe also up in the horizontals above the roof on the third pitch of ED, up in the alcove before the slab traversing right on Boldville, the big flake high on the first pitch of Limelight, the short crack at the start of Proctoscope, in the flake leading up to Triangle, somewhere in the corner above the crux of Pink Laurel, etc. etc.

I could be wrong about lots of these; for the most part I'm recalling spots too big to hand jam. But just take the thing and you'll find places to get rid of it.
Posted by: tradjunkie

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 07:39 PM

Maybe you should carry two and see if you can place both on every pitch.
Posted by: jdw

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/14/09 10:50 PM

Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
Rusty Jam, a variant start to Trusty Rifle, I think might take a #5. Short and sweet, you can walk off the top of this G-rated miniroute in 30 seconds.
I wonder if you could throw it in somewhere on Betty?
I'm not sure if Baby will take a #5. #4, for sure. I'd be curious to hear for sure one way or the other about a #5.
Is Inverted Layback too big? Probably at the crux, yes, but you could probably put it in somewhere useful.
If nothing else, just having it clanking on your rack will take the shine off. Just carry it up a whole bunch of climbs.
And don't forget toprope anchor options. You could walk along the top of the cliff and toprope whatever climb lies under a #5 placement. That would be a real mystery tour.


I have a friend who enjoys using his BD #6 on Baby - so, yes, it will fit.

JDW
Posted by: chip

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/15/09 02:06 PM

Yes, I've placed it on the first pitch of Wrist.
Posted by: dalguard

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/15/09 03:16 PM

I've always been told Inverted Layback was too big for a #5 but I haven't taken one up there to prove it. I can get a knee in there, so it's pretty big.
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/15/09 03:32 PM

There's a couple little wires or cams that go up in a smaller crack within the offwidth.
Posted by: MarcC

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/22/09 04:56 AM

The problem with wide gear is that you may be tempted to try monstrosities like this:

[From this thread at the taco stand.]
Posted by: chip

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/22/09 12:14 PM

The true pleasure in a crack like that is in feeling all the sand particles breaking loose with every movement under all points of pressure as you keep trying to swim upstream against the flow. Makes me want to jump right in.
Posted by: BobbyS

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/22/09 09:12 PM

I once saw someone going up Easy Keyhole with at least a double set of cams up to the #5 and at least 2 big bros along with backpacks and walkie talkies....shortly there-after one of the walkie talkies came back down from above and almost took out the belayer....

Route for a possible big piece...Invitation to Hell...I think there used to be a pin at the 5.10+ crux which is now gone?
Posted by: LarE

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/22/09 09:55 PM

I seem to recall One Size Fits All taking a #5 (and a #4) nicely. As a matter of fact, I think I'd be fairly terrified to try that route again without the big aluminum umbrellas clipped to the left side of my harness...
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/22/09 09:59 PM

Bobby...that was probably me you saw out there on Easy Keyhole. I love going overboard sometimes!!! And LarE....we're not allowed supposedly to discuss that route on here!!! go talk to JGreene about it!
Posted by: dalguard

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/23/09 12:18 PM

Keyhole, not Easy Keyhole.
Posted by: Leemouse2

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/24/09 06:32 PM

Well, it's at Peterskill, but Slot Machine (just to the left of Golden Dream) would easily take a #5.
Posted by: BobbyS

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/25/09 02:48 AM

It was not you Ranger Rob....the ascent I watched was of the 5.2....Easy Keyhole....
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: #5 Camalot - 05/26/09 03:15 AM

I was being farsical