Easy V and Gelsa

Posted by: gmv

Easy V and Gelsa - 04/07/13 11:58 PM

I'm thinking about heading up to the Gunks next week and I was wondering if anybody can tell me if the Easy V and/or Gelsa are open. I read somewhere something about peregrine nesting.

It'll be my first time climbing in the Gunks. It's weird that I'm nervous about climbing 5.3/5.4 rated routes.

Any other good easier routes available?

I haven't climbed in a long time but I used to climb a lot when I was living in Colorado.

Thanks
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/08/13 09:58 AM

Both are open.
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/08/13 07:22 PM

Gelsa is one of the most exciting 5.4s you'll climb in the northeast. Last pitch is out there for sure.
Posted by: SethG

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/08/13 07:36 PM

Minty and Beginner's Delight are both open and are wonderful climbs from the bottom to the top of the cliff. Also Sixish is really very nice (maybe my favorite of the ones mentioned) and it is open. Three great pitches.

Three Pines is quite good but it is closed at the moment.

Bunny is a single-pitch outing but it is a longish pitch and features very nice climbing.
Posted by: KathyS

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/08/13 08:49 PM

And way out toward the far end of the Trapps is Casa Emilio, which is a very nice route in that grade range. 1st pitch isn't much, but the 2nd is long and lovely.
Posted by: kenr

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/09/13 12:11 AM

Pitch "zero" of Casa Emilio makes a nice start (and helps justify the long walk): in the "basement" of the house -- the only multi-pitch climb in the Trapps which starts in a cave. See description in one of the Comments on MountainProject.com topo.

Easy V pitch 1 is a nice 5.1 face, but the upper pitch is pretty wild for a 5.3 leader -- or follower. I think it's a worthwhile lead with some unusual moves, but don't expect your partner to love you for dragging them up it.

Note that many of the great easy climbs in the Gunks have tricky traverse sections (e.g. Gelsa). So unless your follower is really solid on traversing footwork, better have a plan for how you're going to finish if they fall of the route into unclimablble terrain (like do they know how to prusik up the rope to get back on the route? or have you practiced a pulley system to haul them?).

Definitely consider using double-ropes. Keep in mind that simply using double-ropes does not automatically protect your follower on traverses -- you really have to know _how_ to use them.

I think the upper half of Andrew is really great with double-ropes, but all the caveats above apply in full strength, and the leader better be cool in the face of routefinding and exposure.

Ken
Posted by: kenr

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/09/13 12:21 AM

Bunny -- the upper two-thirds has lots of fun moves, but the lower third is kind of awkward. Be prepared to be pretty intimidated leading the first 15 feet, and consider how you might "haul" an inexperienced follower thru some of the lower moves, so they can get to the more fun stuff.

Also if you set up a top-rope on Bunny with a pulley at the top and belayer at the bottom, keep in mind that with rope stretch somebody could take a rather long fall (and hit something and get hurt) even though they're "on top-rope".

Betty - with the direct "nose" finish is rather good (does anyone do the original first ascension finish any more?)

Ken
Posted by: gmv

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/09/13 11:53 AM

Wow, thanks for the all the beta.

I was considering Beginner's Delight as well.

I'll report back next week after our trip.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/09/13 04:00 PM

Beg. Delight is in the falcon closure area.
Posted by: wivanov

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/09/13 04:16 PM

Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Beg. Delight is in the falcon closure area.

You sure? I thought Bloody Bush to Overhanging Layback. Beginner's Delight is outside of that.

Mohonk Preserve Route Closures
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 04/10/13 12:48 PM

Originally Posted By: wivanov
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Beg. Delight is in the falcon closure area.

You sure? I thought Bloody Bush to Overhanging Layback. Beginner's Delight is outside of that.

Mohonk Preserve Route Closures


Oops, you're right. My bad. blush
Posted by: Gail

Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa - 05/14/13 09:11 PM

I would not take a beginner up beginner's delight due to the traverse.

Also...if you are not good at route finding, you are going to find yourself in some interesting territory!

Good beginner climbs;
Black Fly 5.5, hardish feet, but, no route finding
RMC Lots of fun, combine P1 and P2. Protect your second on the traverse of P1. P3 is lovely
Easy Overhang, both pitches, outstanding exposure
Jackie Both Pitches, rap to GT ledge and do P2 of Classic. The second pitches are short but fun. The roof on P1 can be a challenge for a newb.
Betty all pitches, all ways. Rap to GT ledge and go up the chimney after you do the other variations
Belly Roll is lots of fun. P2 has a long, rising, every exposed traverse. Make sure your second is comfortable before doing it.
No Picnic...straight up to the tree, no route finding. A fun, tricky little roof.
I like Minty...but...it can be hard to get off the ground and you need to build gear anchors.
Finger Locks or Cedar Box, no route finding, straight up fun climbing.