Guess the route: variation

Posted by: Dana

Guess the route: variation - 04/16/13 01:57 PM

Two very popular climbs in the Trapps, and for the times when they were done, two of the hardest routes in the area.

"Upon reaching the belay point, most climbers forearms will be blown up like balloons."

"If a climber leads this route and you are with him, you will see an excellent example of calmness on sheer rock, for it will be the only tool which will save him from a fall."

Art Gran, A Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks.
Posted by: cfrac

Re: Guess the route: variation - 04/16/13 05:42 PM

Well I feel like those statements could apply to most of the climbs in the Gunks, but I'll throw Retribution and Nosedive out there.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Guess the route: variation - 04/16/13 07:23 PM

#1 is indeed Nosedive. By the way, at the time it was described as a three pitch route. One pitch to a platform below the bulge, a second pitch past the crux bulge, and a third to the top.

#2 is very popular. When it was first done it was considered the hardest climb of the grade in the 'Gunks, a "borderline climb," according to Gran.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Guess the route: variation - 04/16/13 07:28 PM

Here's another one from Gran.
I realize these descriptions aren't particularly good hints, so . . . here's a clue.
In the past this route has provided some "unique" photo opportunities.

"Once one gets to know the route it turns out to be a walk, but few look good on their first attempt."
Posted by: tradjunkie

Re: Guess the route: variation - 04/16/13 10:14 PM

Dana, your clue is too revealing.
Clue for your other one: I doubt anybody will be climbing it this weekend.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Guess the route: variation - 04/16/13 11:10 PM

Do you think so? I thought it was the bare minimum.

How about this one? It's in the Near Trapps, it's been upgraded from Gran's guide.

"This climb has a habit of ejecting 5.7 leaders."
Posted by: schwortz

Re: Guess the route: variation - 04/18/13 05:14 AM

cck?
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Guess the route: variation - 04/18/13 04:27 PM

Originally Posted By: Dana
Two very popular climbs in the Trapps, and for the times when they were done, two of the hardest routes in the area.

"Upon reaching the belay point, most climbers forearms will be blown up like balloons."

"If a climber leads this route and you are with him, you will see an excellent example of calmness on sheer rock, for it will be the only tool which will save him from a fall."

Art Gran, A Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks.


The second climb is MF.
I don't know the Nears climb.

Dana (and anyone else): it gets really difficult to sort out responses and answers if you have two active challenges going on at once. Even more so if one of the challenges is about two different climbs.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Guess the route: variation - 04/18/13 05:20 PM

Yes, MF.