Modern Times - Variation history question

Posted by: jakedatc

Modern Times - Variation history question - 04/29/13 01:41 AM

I am trying to settle something. I would like to know the order that the variations were done. (also if anyone wants to draw in the variations on my pics or others)

I always believed that the 5.8+ out right of the tree, up to the ledge then up to the top was the original.

there are 3 other variations listed in Grey Dick.

.9 Exit stage left V1

.10a V2 hand traverse right on horizontal

.9+ direct finish V3


Posted by: jakedatc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 04/29/13 02:06 AM

This is what he is claiming. I have pretty much pictures of the full sequence if the ones above aren't clear enough to show I did the original route

Quote:
The great classic route in traditional style that jake dack did was not the roof of modern time.
Posted by: SethG

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 04/29/13 03:57 AM

I think what you did is Modern Times. It is the 5.8 way. I don't know if it is original but I think so. The 1970 Vulgarian Digest describes the route (in 5 pitches!). It says to go to notch in overhang, surmount the overhang then "traverse right, scared shitless, to large pine." If I'm not mistaken this pine is now gone. Not that definitive but seems to match your way, Jake.
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 04/29/13 04:18 AM

I think so too.. I found the scan of that edition. hehe good old stuff there.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 04/29/13 03:00 PM

Exit Stage Left is a complete route, done in 1979, but no one does the lower pitches as they are very dirty. The last pitch is an exciting bit of climbing and it's worth your time. I did the section up the GT ledge once; it was pretty non-descript. Dick's guide lists the last pitch of Exit Stage Left as Variation 1, but he incorrectly credits Mike Schneider with the first ascent. Schneider did the 5.9+ variation, listed as Variation 3. Neither Willaims or Swain has any info. on the 5.10 variation.
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 04/29/13 03:01 PM

LOL he thinks the bendy tree is the no longer there "pine tree belay" after you pull over the roof. buhahhaa
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/01/13 12:32 AM

Which variation is this one?

Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/01/13 05:26 PM

Well the start of that variation is Exit Stage Left. After surmounting the first roof with the crack in it though, it crab crawls straight left...hence the name. I've never done it the way you draw it.

By the way...Exit stage Left is quite strenuous for a 5.9, in my opinion.
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/02/13 03:09 AM

Thanks Rob. that seems to be the consensus that the line is basically off route and making it hard on yourself to do the normal way. (this was done by someone else, i'm the one in the photo doing the standard way)

i didnt get to the gunks at all last season and thinking about routes this week has me itching to go :P
Posted by: SethG

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/02/13 04:09 PM

You can tell your friend his way is the noob fail way.
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/02/13 04:57 PM

definitely not a friend.. he is a special snowflake that thinks he knows more than he does.
Posted by: curmudgeon

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/03/13 11:14 PM

The regular way with vultures.

Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/04/13 10:28 AM

a special snowflake....I like that. I may steal that phrase from you.
Posted by: Malloc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/06/13 05:55 PM

I'm curious about the 10a variation. I did it in 1995 because Willie the Austrian told me about it, but I have no idea who did the first ascent. I do feel it is one of the most exposed, exhilarating and under-appreciated pitches in the Gunks.

Any 411 would be appreciated.

(Also, how do you insert a photo? I used the 'Include photo' button and I pasted in a URL to a picture on my Picasa page, but it doesn't seem to insert the picture, only the link?)
[img:center]http://picasaweb.google.com/102128850681...926183665889890[/img]
Posted by: jakedatc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/06/13 06:28 PM

right click on your picasa picture and scroll to "copy link location" then paste it between the [img] boxes

not sure how you got that weird link. but it links back to this thread not even the picture
Posted by: Malloc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/06/13 09:01 PM

Trying again with a picture of what me and my peeps refer to as "Post Modern Times"

Posted by: jakedatc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/06/13 09:36 PM

that looks how i understand it to be. how is the gear going on the traverse? would be pretty important so your 2nd doesn't end up in no mans land
Posted by: Malloc

Re: Modern Times - Variation history question - 05/06/13 11:39 PM

The gear is a piece of cake if you are good at chin-ups and you have BIG camelots.

I reminisce; I took a guy from Manhattan Plaza gym on this route. He pulled up past the tree and was about to start the hand traverse when he decided he had had enough. He yelled 'Take!' If only I had time to explain to him all the reasons why 'taking' wouldn't have done for him what he wanted. He was about 5 feet from the piece and it was directly to his right. All I could have accomplished was to pull him off. So I yelled "Keep going! Don't stop!" Every inch towards the piece would have helped, but he was having none of it. Eventually, of course, he came off and had a very spectacular top-rope whipper. (By the way, I found that picture on the web. It has nothing to do with me)