Interstice P1, 5.10b??

Posted by: SethG

Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/20/13 01:57 PM

Okay, I'm bored. I can't make it to the Gunks for a couple of weeks and it is hot as balls anyway.

So I top-roped pitch one of Interstice last week and I thought the pitch was surprisingly good. I also thought that first crux was really tough! Two hard moves in a row, really thin. I thought the upper crux was a good 5.10 move, but not unreasonable. Also it looked like a somewhat gutsy lead to me, both cruxes are above the gear.

What do you think?
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/20/13 02:28 PM

Too gutsy for me to want to lead.
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/20/13 06:07 PM

I don't recall the start as being badly protected, but the upper part of the first pitch is a bit run-out.
Posted by: curmudgeon

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/20/13 10:35 PM

Lucander sends! laugh

Posted by: retroscree

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/21/13 12:59 AM

Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Too gutsy for me to want to lead.

I followed/TR'd a few times - decided I'd lead it once it was reasonably bolted. ;-)
Posted by: Dana

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/21/13 12:45 PM

Lead it twice. Hard moves at the start are protected, but I think they are underrated at 5.10b.. The runout starts where Dave is in the picture; last piece below his feet, next piece quite a bit higher. It reminds me of the runout on Tough Shift; straightforward moves that get easier as you progress, but there is a potential for a long fall. I also did it with Russ Clune, he led that pitch and said "That's a reala pant-loader."
Despite the guidebook warning, the second pitch is well protected, and it is a nice bit of climbing.
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/27/13 08:16 PM

Ask RGold about the second pitch. It sure looks exciting. I ventured up to the roof while Lucander belayed me one day, and thankfully thunderheads started booming overhead. I happily retreated to the anchor and we bailed. I;ve never seen anyone on it. As far as the first pitch....totally classic.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/28/13 07:00 PM

The protection on the second pitch is fine. You have big cam at your waist when you are pulling the crux. The climbing does not let for about for about 15-feet or so after the overhang, but there are places for small cams. Good pitch, tricky crux.
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 07/28/13 08:20 PM

Rob is perhaps referring to a 30 foot or so fall I took off that pitch, BITD before cams. Worked hard to get opposed nuts at the lip, nothing else available after that; perhaps small cams have changed that part. It was late winter or early spring and there was a thin stream of ice water running down the route after I cleared the ceiling. The ice water progressively numbed my hands, which went from being ok to worthless for gripping very suddenly.

The fall was all air. I didn't fancy another bout with the ice water and bailed. Came back in a few weeks and did it when it was warmer and drier.
Posted by: NYZoo

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 08/05/13 08:48 PM

I love Interstice. To me the climbing is varied and very fun. I think the first pitch is 10b and the second pitch roof is harder at 10d (this is how Dick has it written and it seems right on to me).. . I never thought of it as being to run out, I've always thought of it as PG (a little heading a a spot or two but not even close to R). The second pitch roof is awesome, I don't want to give away any unwanted gear beta but it's there, strenuous to place but there. Dick says there's a 9R section here but I never really found that to be the case… Combining both pitches in one is a whole lot of rock climbing in one long pitch.. Super fun…
Posted by: Kent

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 08/08/13 03:44 PM

Seth, if you want to call yourself a gunks 5.10 leader, you have to man up and onsight these things, or at least try. :-)

I love Interstice. It's one of my fav climbs on the mac wall.

Is anyone climbing Freebird these days? It's fairly contrived which is why I assume Dick didn't put it in the guidebook. Pitch one is between Interstice and Birdy Party and one must make a conscious effort to avoid some of the holds on Birdy Party. Pitch one is a very spicey lead but can be top roped off a gear anchor up inside that big flake above P1 of Interstice. Pitch 2 goes out a thin seam through the big roof. I've only seen two people work on Pitch 2, on toprope, and they were Sciacca and Gottlieb.

Edited to add: P1 of Freebird goes at 11.c PG-R if anyone wants to take a crack at it.
Posted by: SethG

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 08/09/13 01:54 PM

Originally Posted By: Kent
Seth, if you want to call yourself a gunks 5.10 leader, you have to man up and onsight these things, or at least try. :-)

I basically agree with you Kent, which is why I don't call myself a 5.10 leader... yet. I do try, even if the results are decidedly mixed.
Posted by: Kent

Re: Interstice P1, 5.10b?? - 08/09/13 02:14 PM

Cool. I was just busting your chops any way. I never called myself an 11 leader for the same reason. Sure, I led some 11s, even some hard and poorly protected ones, but I couldn't just walk up and onsight 11. I think I had just one successful .11 onsight, Scene of the Climb.

Good on ya for trying to onsight at your limit. That's where the fun is.